Stringers is the subject !!

**XstreamVking** · 02-19-2017, 12:58 PM

Yes, that's the joint. And 3/4 stringers are good. 1/2'' will work too. I try and make a U shape stringer, |_| (flip this) and you can bond the floor board to the stringer tops for more support, and a better structure overall.

**W2F a V-King** · 02-19-2017, 02:14 PM

Thank you. I am building a comp style hull and not using a floor. I will have 6 stringers in all. The two center stringers stop at 8 ft. But the other stringers are longer, and I will need to make them one piece.

Thank you for showing me this.

**talonkid** · 02-19-2017, 07:35 PM

I did the knife joint as described above using 1/2" meranti to make an 11' long stringer but I laminated 2 widths together making a 1" wide stringer which then allowed me to stagger the joint as well.

**dwilfong** · 02-22-2017, 08:06 PM

Use the 15lb 1/2" Coosa and knife edge them at the joint.
Then put two together with DB1700 glass in between them lay it on the floor with concrete blocks on top to compress.
All the excess resin will be pressed out and it will bond really good.
That will make a killer light stringer.
Then cloth over them to install.

**powerabout** · 02-22-2017, 08:47 PM

where's the calc to determine more glass in the floor/stiffer material and no stringer or stringer(s) and lighter layup?

**XstreamVking** · 02-23-2017, 08:13 AM

Most re-builders are just going off what was done at the factory when the original competition lay up boats were built w/o core.

**W2F a V-King** · 02-23-2017, 09:19 AM

The V-King comps do have a core. Or maybe more accurate, some do. The only reason I know this is I have been in communication with a member here that was kind enough to help me with my rebuild. Took pictures and measurements and sent them to me. Also spoke to him a couple times about how his boat was built.

My boat was not a comp, but I have separated the deck from the hull and completely gutted and ground my boat out so I can build it back up as close to a comp as possible. No floor and 6 stringers.

Maybe some other comp streams are built differently. Guessing when you ordered a new comp from Howard, you could likely have him build it the way you want.... Don't know that for sure.

**dwilfong** · 02-23-2017, 03:57 PM

Originally Posted by W2F a V-King

The V-King comps do have a core. Or maybe more accurate, some do. The only reason I know this is I have been in communication with a member here that was kind enough to help me with my rebuild. Took pictures and measurements and sent them to me. Also spoke to him a couple times about how his boat was built.

My boat was not a comp, but I have separated the deck from the hull and completely gutted and ground my boat out so I can build it back up as close to a comp as possible. No floor and 6 stringers.

Maybe some other comp streams are built differently. Guessing when you ordered a new comp from Howard, you could likely have him build it the way you want.... Don't know that for sure.

What is the allure with the COMP build up?
Weight?
How much do you think it will save over a core and floor with Coosa?
My Coosa build up with full floor and front air box setup is about #460.
Will say about #100 make that much of a difference?

**rjdubiel** · 02-23-2017, 05:41 PM

You have to make it to a Power Tour meet, get to hear about people ordering comp v kings and still getting spanked by one guy with the same boat but using weight in an odd place to make it run. Howard said some were calling to return the boats because they could not beat the dude and they though the hull was defective or something like that. Good times and GREAT stories and advice given from the MAN!

**W2F a V-King** · 02-23-2017, 06:57 PM

It only makes sense, lighter is faster... "IF" setup is correct. Setup is going to be different boat to boat. And then there is the "driver mod" of said boat that will make a difference too.

Biggest reason I'm building comp style rig.....I want to be able to see all parts of the hull all the time.

If a problem develops in the hull, I'll have a better chance to see it and make the necessary repairs before it becomes a health hazard, Rather then have it buried under a floor where you wonder if all is OK.

Converting a production boat into a comp may not save me any weight, but I'm hoping it will.

**dwilfong** · 02-23-2017, 09:19 PM

I think there would be a greater chance of failure with a stringer boat than a cored,full floor and front air box set up with every thing tied in.
Better to stop a potential problem than to be able to keep and eye on one.
Now if you are just going to race it that would be different story.
Not sure what your intentions are for the boat?
But if you are going to be hot rodding it around a fully supported hull I think would serve you better.

**GregAdams** · 02-24-2017, 07:10 AM

hey James. How is the build coming along? What are you using for stringers?

**W2F a V-King** · 02-24-2017, 10:55 AM

Originally Posted by GregAdams

hey James. How is the build coming along? What are you using for stringers?

Hi Greg,

A little slower than I would like to be

, my health isn't the best, but purchasing materials now, and getting ready to start reassembling the boat. Hull is gutted and ground out, deck is off.

I got samples from Corelite and Coosa. Both are really nice products. I spoke to people from both companies asking questions, both have great people working with them. Very helpful and informed, and polite. Both products made HERE IN THE USA !!

I glassed together some small test panels with polyester resin and CSM ( However I am using Epoxy on my boat...didn't have any for testing ), and then compressed them to cure.

Then later after curing for 24 hours under pressure tried to separate them at the bonds with a chisel. Both were really tough to bust up, however for ME and MY test I liked the Corelite products better.

Corelite Board is about 1/2 the cost of Coosa.
Corelite is formed under compression. It's really lite and strong. Easy to cut and shape. The glass bond in my testing could not be broken at the bond. Forcing the bond to separate cause it to pull a chunk out of the piece it was bonded to.

So for my project I am using Corelite Board 1/2" thick stringers in 28lb. density.

https://www.corelitecomposites.com/corelite-board.html

You thoughts Greg?

I hope you had a great spring/summer and now your going into fall.

**W2F a V-King** · 02-24-2017, 11:09 AM

Originally Posted by dwilfong

I think there would be a greater chance of failure with a stringer boat than a cored,full floor and front air box set up with every thing tied in.
Better to stop a potential problem than to be able to keep and eye on one.
Now if you are just going to race it that would be different story.
Not sure what your intentions are for the boat?
But if you are going to be hot rodding it around a fully supported hull I think would serve you better.

You may be right. Opinions vary here I guess.

I like the open stringer setup.

Your boat came out VERY nice, you did a wonderful job...obviously not your first rodeo at glass work. Your boat is ROCK solid for sure!!

This isn't my first try at it either, and I only hope mine comes out as well as your boat!!

It will be my first time using epoxy and peel ply though.

It's just going to be a boat for me to have some serious fun with. My wife has no desire to ride with me trying to pass the 100 mark. I don't think my rig will get me there, but that's my target. I have had some small "quick" boats before, built them all from "junk", but never got much past the mid 80 mark.

Hopefully I can take it to some of the gatherings the guys here go to.

A lot of good people here on S&F and I want to meet some of them. And don't want to have to bring my bass boat...

**dwilfong** · 02-24-2017, 02:57 PM

Believe me or not that was my first boat rebuild. last time I did glass work was back in 1981. Was my first real job after HS.

Like thy say you never for get your first time.