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Thread: Liner removal/installation 2.4
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01-17-2017, 05:34 AM #15000 RPM
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Liner removal/installation 2.4
I want to remove the steel liners from a 2.4 block. I have bought an old oven. (I know enough baking the block in the kitchen one won't go over well). From what I have been told
(1) Heat block to 400 for an hour
(2)Using a good oven (or welding mitt) pull them out
For reinstalling
(1) check interference(0.004)
(2) Heat block as above
(3) liners in freezer
(4) put in
When reinstalling do I need a press?
Can they be turned if not in proper alignment with ports
Should they be staked?
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01-17-2017, 08:09 AM #2
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01-17-2017, 02:24 PM #3
I do 1 hour 20 minutes at 450. Sleeves ar room temp and if cool in shop I place in oven for about 20 seconds. The block expands to release and allow the sleeves to be removed or installed. When you freeze the sleeve the block cools rapidly because of the cold sleeve and this causes the block shrinks and grabs the sleeve before you can get them in. Just my experience.
James Perry
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01-17-2017, 02:45 PM #4
Block will need to be bored for the new sleeves. They are oversized to ensure interference will be correct once block is bored. On that particular enging you will need to install the sleeves and blend the block to the sleeves before you bore to size. I line up the booster and blend the fingers. Look at the poor mismatch before you remove the old sleeves. I like .003 myself. The early 2.4 steel usually only had about .001 to .002 which is why they would turn. The fat blocks didn't have that issue. Hope this helps.
James Perry
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01-17-2017, 02:48 PM #5
1. Don't need a press.
2.If don't get lined up on first try, you just let it cool and reheat the next day and line up.
3. Do not need to be staked.James Perry
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01-17-2017, 03:29 PM #6
Why are you pulling them?? What's up your sleeve for the new year??
Bahaha, I know, bad pun
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01-23-2017, 12:46 AM #7
I found some pics that show had poorly the ports line up on the steel 2.4's especially the early ones. Another tip is to pick your battles on the ports alignment. When I make sleeves, I reverse engineer them. My ports are in the same location as the factory. On this particular 2.4 which was a 88 XR4 that I installed 6 over sized modified ported sleeves, I lined up the exhaust and the two transfers but the 2 finger and booster ports were off and were off before I started. This is common on these engines and funny part is this is one of the better ones I have seen. What I do is match the block to the sleeve and then the sleeve to the block to make it all match. You want to leave this area rough and do the grinding before any boring is done in case the cutter gets away from you, it usually isn't an issue. It is the little things done to a engine that can make some of the best improvements. I hope this helps on your adventure. Just my experience and 2 cents worth.....
Before boring....
After boring and decking but before honing.......
James Perry
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01-23-2017, 11:13 AM #8
Hey...that block looks very familiar...........but much much better now
Sweet!!
After seeing for myself just how mix matched those XR4 ports are stock, made me think Mercury had left over parts to toss together and make their own FrankenMerc motor, call it a 150 and knowing it would likely make a bit more than that.
Great work
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