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  1. #121
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    Talked a few hours last night about possible engine upgrades...in addition to redoing the rotating assembly (including a forged crank & lighter-weight pistons, the discussion of the flywheel surfaced. The flywheel I have seems VERY heavy and of course that's energy loss on acceleration and a hit on engine response time (from an inertia standpoint). Is there a lighter-weight flywheel that will fit in the Bravo One environment? If so, what coupler would be used?

  2. #122
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    It was also recommended I pickup a hydraulic? balancer for the front of the engine....he said the production won't stay together. Any recommendations?

  3. #123
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    The stock balancers can spin the outer ring, a fluid dampr works fine.

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Classic18 View Post
    Talked a few hours last night about possible engine upgrades...
    I know that you are leaning heavily toward a used option but here is a really good article you might want to check out on the 383 motor that comes with a warranty. You might want to see if Merc will offer 0 percent financing on it given your budget is limited. Sometimes this time of year they have some interesting options. Lot of motor for $10k and peace of mind. Maybe they would roll in the installation at a dealer and for no upfront money you could be into it for a 12 month note.

    http://www.boattest.com/oem/497/engines/29500118/3

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  6. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg G View Post
    I know that you are leaning heavily toward a used option but here is a really good article you might want to check out on the 383 motor that comes with a warranty. You might want to see if Merc will offer 0 percent financing on it given your budget is limited. Sometimes this time of year they have some interesting options. Lot of motor for $10k and peace of mind. Maybe they would roll in the installation at a dealer and for no upfront money you could be into it for a 12 month note.

    http://www.boattest.com/oem/497/engines/29500118/3
    This is great advice from Greg. It would be a beast in an 18 Classic. Resale would be higher, bullet proof and cost less than rebuilding a used motor. If you can finance it, then you have money in your pocket longer.

  7. #126
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    Do you have pics of your boat?

  8. #127
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    That's still a very mild 377 with iron heads for 10k. No fuss, turn key.
    Last edited by FMP; 02-20-2017 at 09:42 PM.

  9. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    That's still a very mild 377 with iron heads for 10k.
    It's an amazing motor for $10k. With headers it's 370 HP. Couldn't build it for less than that to the same standard. More than enough for an 18 Classic too. Each to their own though.

  10. #129
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    Mild and reliable, but for 10 you could build a stroker with much more and still be turn key. Not saying that's better in this case, but 100% doable.

  11. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Mild and reliable, but for 10 you could build a stroker with much more and still be turn key. Not saying that's better in this case, but 100% doable.
    Paying for someone else to do a 400 HP stroker, with a good block and really good marine marine parts for less than $10k? Maybe, I'd be surprised though. I haven't built an engine in a long time. Factor in the warranty, resale etc. Not even a contest to me. An extra 20 to 30 hp in that boat won't get you much speed either.

  12. #131
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    I'm frugal build your own with 75-100 more HP.
    Last edited by FMP; 02-21-2017 at 07:06 AM.

  13. #132
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	367757Click image for larger version. 

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    I understand and very much appreciate all the comments on what to build, but I have very little money to put in this. I get the fact that $10,000 will get me there (maybe with a suspect motor), but I'm trying to do with much much less. Many of you have added information that has really pointed me in a different direction....and in some cases a safer direction! That's worth gold and my kids appreciate that!

    My low-budget build starts with a 1991 2-bolt Mercruiser 350 pulled from a bow rider. $1000 for the whole boat and have sold $3400 worth of parts.....so I am partially funded. I kept the donor trailer and am modifying to lower the boat/trailer CG as I like to travel fast and the original trailer is a higher-CG unit.

    The motor is down to the block now. I picked up a set of L31 5.7L Vortec heads, casting number 12558062. Based on what I've read, these are a very big enabler (for min cost engine development). I'd love to buy some Dart or other fast-burn heads, but they don't compare to the $75 I paid for these. I'll have the block checked, get some stronger/splayed mains, an affordable (?) forged crank and pistons and see what I have. I'll also do some of the recommendations to the heads and profile the CR....will see how it goes.

    Regarding the boat: Its nick name is Eleanor since it is (was) yellow and wasa rat boat and reminded me of the original "Gone in 60 seconds" Mustang. . Paid a few thousand for it, but the hull was really gouged up from driving onto trailers sideways and over rocks. I have removed every scrap of wood in it, replacing with new, improved structure & new gelcoat. Before and after for the hull......more to come.

    My wife want to know if she posted Donzi on my head if I'd pay more attention to her!
    Last edited by Classic18; 02-21-2017 at 11:34 AM. Reason: typo

  14. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt.Insane-o View Post
    The stock balancers can spin the outer ring, a fluid dampr works fine.
    Capn, do you have a damper you'd recommend....maybe not the best, but a "good one"? Maybe that doesn't exist.

  15. #134
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    Can't remember right now about the L31 or cast # but you want the 1/2 ton heads not the 3/4 ton heavy truck heads. The 1/2 ton out flow and make more HP. Also check them for cracks.Ran them on a heavy K20 with great results just under 10:1,then went to aluminum .Just checked, those are the 1/2 ton heads.Either way they make great power, with less adv.
    Last edited by FMP; 02-21-2017 at 08:50 AM.

  16. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMP View Post
    Can't remember right now about the L31 or cast # but you want the 1/2 ton heads not the 3/4 ton heavy truck heads. The 1/2 ton out flow and make more HP. Also check them for cracks.Ran them on a heavy K20 with great results just under 10:1,then went to aluminum .Just checked, those are the 1/2 ton heads.Either way they make great power, with less adv.
    Yeah, the ticket to have is PN 12558062.....I'm told for someone that doesn't want to spend a ton of money, these are the way to go for a big HP jump....adding the purchase price for my L31 heads, now have about $350 in it....but the machining hasn't started.

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