Viper rebuild and race for pinkslips

[home made tunnel]

[QUOTE=tunnels;2921363]

Will someone please give me a crash course on the VERY basics?
Grind the hull bottom with 16 grit! Yes the courser the better !

You have almost described what I had already written if you had taken the time to read and think it !!
Lay down some chopped mat??? One layer of 450 gram P matt
Trowel on some thickened resin??Thickened with carbosil and talc powder !! and you need to lay out your pre-shaped Balsa sheets with there downside facing uppermost and wet them out with a generous coating of resin before you flip them over and lay into you core bond !. The size of the notch's in your trowel are really important as is the thickness of the core bond !
Place balsa blocks down in the thickened resin??? And make sure the core bond ozzes up to fill cracks and any gaps within the sheets of balsa blocks !!
Soak core with non thickened resin?? when its all hard then scuff and seal the top of the balsa with a generous layer of catalyzed resin and let it soak and harden !!

Lay down some biax (how heavy???) At a 45° angle???
Then another layer of biax straight??
This is a waste of time !


One layer of DBM 1708 With the chopped strand facing down onto the wet balsa!! then immediately finish it off with a unidirectional running from keel to the chine (this forms the triaxle 45/45/90 like i had already written )
With this its lighter than you had !! it has one layer of glass less that in reality is doing absolutely nothing because its running in the wrong direction !.

caps, bold letters, different colors... just an annoying member....

ORiginal poster... just glass the sum betch with anything sticky, and run it!!!!

[tunnels]

Yes, someone did give the hull thickness under the cored area on a V-King......ME . post #65

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...material/page5

10mm average hull thickness under the core. I drilled a few sample holes in mine with 1/16" drill bit.

Also the flex thing might be OK in a slower boat that never airs out or runs on a pad.

A sudden flex in a boat hull coming off a pad, or chine walking and flexing the wet part, even a prop blowing out and the bow drops to quick flexing somewhere that gets wet, could make a bad situation worse. jmo

Maybe in a fishing boat pounding waves it might soften the ride some, and allow for the flexing a small amount to keep it from cracking. Not sure about in that scenario.

WOW 10 mm sound very excessively thick !!!
Most ordinary power boats even 7 meters long only have between 5 to 7 mm thickness !
THE 147 FOOT boat on the bottom of my avatar was basically 15 mm of solid glass in the hull bottom and then had framing inside !the top sides 5mm outside + 45mm thick divinicell core and 5mm inside skin !
As for flex you maybe surprised at just how much the bottom of your boat actually does flex It may not be visible to the naked eye but over all its will move for sure !! Don't be afraid because its moves it means it wont break as easy !
The flex I like to see looks excessive but yes is softer riding and is stronger that any normal person can withstand without getting seriously hurt !
Using these types of flexible boats for Surf life saving in huge surf have saved numerous serious and minor injuries during there average working day !

Even the military have used this concept of flex and carry heavier loads at much higher speeds in boats that are lighter constructed than there counterparts in earlier times !

Amazing as it seems but close to 40% of the glass used in the manufacture of most every boat made is not necessary !! It means a whole rethink of what should be used and how to get the best from less !!

[tunnels]

[QUOTE=home made tunnel;2925432]

caps, bold letters, different colors... just an annoying member....

ORiginal poster... just glass the sum betch with anything sticky, and run it!!!!

That sounds typical of some one not interested in getting more than they asked for !

If you are an expert then answer the guys question properly with logical detail and give reasons why it should be done that way !!

[W2F a V-King]

I'm no expert as you well know, however I know the hull thickness on the V-Kings is this thick for whatever reason, and have verified it with another man who has the race version of this boat. It looks like it was a chopper gun blown in skin with cloth laid in on top. Not 100% sure, but I don't see any cloth in these areas where the core has been removed.

As stated before I do see at least two layers of some kind of woven cloth laid in different directions in all areas outside the core, on top of what ever the skin is compromised of.

As far as flex goes..IF it flexes it's very very marginal, and the Pad better not flex at all. Flexing would cause a hook to form and then release, and this would alter boat attitude or the stability at speed. NOT desired. It is the reason these boats are unsafe at higher speeds if the hull has not been checked and or recored to replace the all wood rotten core/stringers and transom.

In fact the guy I bought my boat from could not run it over 70. Said it was a handful. #1 (jmo) He has never driven a boat that had a chine walk issue, and the boat had a soft hull, rotten core, etc... it was flexing under speed, making it unstable.... I knew the condition of the boat. Didn't care, I bought the boat to restore. The hull had no cracks or ruptures, just a soft rotten core/floor and transom.

Unless put there by design. Like the Vector and Viper hulls, have a Wedge designed into the pad at the last 24" or so, built right in. Some call it a hook, which it may very well be. Some remove it, some leave it, but either way it was designed into the hull and does not flex.

I do think...BUT do not know, that the Viper Vector hulls are thinner, as the reason the core on those goes chine to chine, at least from the rebuild threads I have seen. And my Vector that someone else restored, thats what I see. I have not and have no need or desire to drill holes in my Vector. It just needs a repaint and re rig.

Just my findings so far with mine anyway.....

[home made tunnel]

Are you ****ing kidding me "tunnels"? I'll I asked is what the BASIC PROCESS is so I could build off of it and get this done. There is no reason for anymore pictures. It's a Viper with the core out. I will get it dry and clean and prepped when I feel like getting itchy. This is not my first or even 100th restoration. I font need you to critique my sanding and grinding. I asked for a little background and BASIC knowalage of the glass to order and the process. Thanks for nothing.

Tunnels... Here is an example of what the original poster isn't looking for. Just a quick and dirty job is all he needs.
No need to get angry at him, or anyone else not wanting Fiberglass lessons 101.


To the Original Poster Bondo4days - - - If all you want is quick and dirty... Mix some sawdust in with resin to make a thick peanut-butter texture. Put it in a plastic bag and squeeze it out like cake-frosting onto bottom of pad, or forget the bag and just slop it on and spread. Slap on a piece of plywood over that for your core... use more peanut-butter resin to fill in the edges... and throw any cheap glass you can find over the top of all of it...

QUick and dirty... and effective. Cheap!!!

...or forget the core, and just put in a few massive stingers / 2x10 timbers in the same manner on edge. Call it a day.

[skatertom]

Ran a Viper back in the late 70s with a 150xs boat ran low 80s on Radar 30" thru hub cleaver took the hook out of the bottom couldn't get the boat to run lower 70s put the hook back in 80+ instantly.

Tom Madden
Land & sea

[tunnels]

Ran a Viper back in the late 70s with a 150xs boat ran low 80s on Radar 30" thru hub cleaver took the hook out of the bottom couldn't get the boat to run lower 70s put the hook back in 80+ instantly.

Tom Madden
Land & sea

put the hook back in 80+ instantly.
And the reason why its faster with a hook is ??

[nohasslekindaguy]

[QUOTE=bondo4days;2920825]Attachment 364670

Those seats are bad ass!

[bondo4days]

The shop has been super busy so I haven't been working on the boat but the race is 2.5 weeks away so I got back on it tonight. I got most of the rest of the core out and my 3/4" marine plywood cut. I made the stringers an inch taller and kicked them up to the bottom of the splashwell. I also got my materials in. 2 sheets of 1/2" balsa, 5 sheets of 3/8" balsa 4 gallons vinyl ester resin, cabisil, 1708, some 1.5 Oz chopped mat and some chopped fibers

[bondo4days]

[Gmcviper]

Looking good. But those will be some long days! And nights!

[FMP]

put the hook back in 80+ instantly.
And the reason why its faster with a hook is ??

Okay, give us a lift.

[bondo4days]

Looking good. But those will be some long days! And nights!

Thank you!
It won't be too bad. I own a restoration body shop so this work is not out of my everyday norm.

[W2F a V-King]

Looking really good. Like the cradle you made there.

You think 4 gallons of resin is enough?

[bondo4days]

Looking really good. Like the cradle you made there.

You think 4 gallons of resin is enough?

Nobody seems to think so so probably not but I am a very firm beliver in only using enough resin to wet out what I am doing so we will see how the stringers and pad core goes down and I will order more if I have to. The cradle was tough because the core was and ready out of the boat and it was flimsy as crap so I jigged it up as best I could and what I think the shape is supposed to be. It's even side to side, the pad is flat and I got the wavyness out to the sides...