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01-13-2017, 06:09 PM #1Junior Member
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Viper rebuild and race for pinkslips
Hey everyone, glad to be new to the site. So after watching a video of some crazy tiller steer dingy racing in the ocean, a buddy and I challenged a couple other guys to a race. Winner takes the other team's boat. The rules were simple, two laps around Two Branch Island on the Mississippi River, boat must have an outboard motor and you can only spend $1500 tops. Winner takes home both boats. The race is the weekend after 4th of July. Just a week after the challange I came across a Hydrostream Viper with a 115 for 800 bux! I gave another buddy the money and some extra for fuel and he went and got it. so now my Glasspar G3 project is put on hold while I rebuild this thing. It is very complete with non pitted emblems, windshield, and the seats but it's all disassembled including having the core removed.
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01-13-2017, 06:13 PM #2Junior Member
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Last edited by bondo4days; 01-13-2017 at 06:30 PM.
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01-13-2017, 11:15 PM #3Junior Member
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So here is my plan as of now... the floor is flopping around the way it sits now so I'll build a jig for it first
Plan to leave the cap on it, rebuild the transom with plywood, one sheet of 17oz glass under the core and 2 layers on top. Then 4 plywood stringers that kick up the transom. 2 maybe 3 bulk heads then a 1/2" plywood floor glassed in. Lastly I'm planning on pouring foam in under the floor cause there is a good chance it will get swamped at LOTO and it will make it even stronger, right? Like a jetski...
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01-14-2017, 04:21 AM #4
Last edited by tunnels; 01-14-2017 at 08:39 AM.
Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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01-14-2017, 08:53 AM #5
Rather than using a 1708under the core why not use chopped strand matt as a bedding layer and just one layer of light weight chopped strand matt +45/45/90/triaxle over the top ? this would work out lighter but much stronger and a lot more ridged .
Its never a good idea to use two layers of the same fabrics any where together!! its better to use two different fabrics !!(example 45/45/ double bias and a 0/90 biaxle ) now think seriously about how each layer is stacked and understand why !! The orientation of the glass fibers is very very important to get the best possible strength in all directions from the fabrics you have !!!!Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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01-14-2017, 09:15 AM #6Junior Member
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The way you see it in the pictures is the way I got it. The core is out and its loo flimsy. I don't know how thick it was that's why I am on here sharing my project asking for guidance. The boat came with some sheets of 1/2" balsa so I am going to core with that. I was just towing a plan out there hoping for a little criticism and guidance
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01-14-2017, 09:24 AM #7Junior Member
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Wouldn't I still be kinda wasting resin weight with the chopped mat on the top? Would it not be better to do 2 layers of biax with one layed in at a 45° to the next?
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01-14-2017, 12:30 PM #8Junior Member
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Any chance I can do this all at once and bag it together? I hate the idea of sticking the balsa down then coming back and gassing on to of it. Or do I put the mat under the balsa and only use enough resin to penitrate half way up the balsa, then come back, soak it, glass the top and bag it?
I was trying reaserch this not just ask how to do it but in all the threads I read it's just different guys doing different things with other bickering. Can someone please just give me a quick step by step of the standard process? Like I said, I've never recored a boat so before we argue about epoxy vs polyester and what type of glass, I would really appreciate reading the process for this.Last edited by bondo4days; 01-14-2017 at 12:33 PM.
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01-14-2017, 04:40 PM #9Junior Member
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Or maybe point me to a different fourm..?
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01-14-2017, 05:08 PM #10
Photos !! need photos !! lots of photos !!detailed photos !!WHY you ask !! so we sitting at home can see exactly what you have before we start with the advise !!
the initial stage and clean up and preparation of the hull before you start to even think about sticking anything is vitally important ! bagging anything if you are inexperienced is a total and absolute waste of time even if you are a seasoned glassing person its not a good idea !!
The 1/2 balsa is ok for the job but you need to know how and what you are doing before you start and Buy enough for the whole job !!
So show us what you have NOW !! SO FIRST STEP IS PHOTOS PLEASE !!Last edited by tunnels; 01-14-2017 at 05:11 PM.
Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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01-14-2017, 05:22 PM #11Junior Member
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Are you ****ing kidding me "tunnels"? I'll I asked is what the BASIC PROCESS is so I could build off of it and get this done. There is no reason for anymore pictures. It's a Viper with the core out. I will get it dry and clean and prepped when I feel like getting itchy. This is not my first or even 100th restoration. I font need you to critique my sanding and grinding. I asked for a little background and BASIC knowalage of the glass to order and the process. Thanks for nothing.
Last edited by bondo4days; 01-14-2017 at 06:08 PM.
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01-14-2017, 05:51 PM #126000 RPM
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since you are going into a 1 race all in scenario,I would think light as possible with a 115 should rip. I would not even worry about doing a real and proper resto on it. since you already have some "free" balsa core,I would concentrate on just putting it in the hull's pad area,basically under that rectangle foam box in your pics. I would build your transom out of 2 3/4" ply boards with your 1708 sammich plan. I would use 1/2" ply and build your knees from transom fwd. like your thinking,but turn that into a "ladder" with cross pcs. then tie it all together with csm and then one layer of your cloth. If that don't make 2 laps you didn't want it in the first place lol,don't add weight with a deck,just tie the front of your ladder in with a piece of plywood,running the full width of the ladder to hold your seat,,
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01-14-2017, 05:56 PM #136000 RPM
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when you run your cross pcs,take them up the hull sides,as far as you can,that will help with the flex,as I believe those were built like vectors,with balsa core way up the hull sides,
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01-14-2017, 06:08 PM #14Junior Member
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Thank you very much for the response! That is closer to what my original plan was however I was going to over build it a little bit because (1) I don't want to be responsible for putting an unsafe boat in someone else's hands and (2) I belive the race is going to end up being in rough water of Lake of the Ozarks now. Stupid IMO!
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01-14-2017, 06:09 PM #15Junior Member
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I don't think the core went up the sides. It actually seems like it stopped a couple inches short...
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