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  1. #1
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    Question for those that have sprayed gelcoat metalflake.

    I'm restoring a Hustler 16' Victor and I have bitten the bullet and decided to restore it to it's original metal flake gelcoat color. The question I have is how far down do I have to sand the surface? I've sanded thru the metalflake paint that someone had sprayed on and am down thru to the light blue backround color in some area's...thru to the flake in other area's and only thru some of the clear and into some of the flake in others. Do I need to sand it all the way down to the backround color or is how I have it now sufficient? With as much sanding I'm doing I only want to do it ONCE...but I also don't want to spend hours upon hours sanding if I don't need to. I am sanding with 40 grit paper now so it's pretty rough. I am also considering washing the whole boat down with acetone and giving it a final sanding....thoughts? The deck is done as far as I'm going to go for the moment...going to flip the boat over and tackle the hull....same painted metalflake there too....ugh!!!
    Last edited by DanUmbarger; 01-09-2017 at 10:09 PM.

  2. #2
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    Thought I would add a few pics...hope they show up good enough.Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by DanUmbarger; 01-10-2017 at 06:43 PM.

  3. #3
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    You will be better off with a perfectly smooth substrate,to resurface upon. Any high/low spots are a bit more forgiving with gel vs. Paint, but since you are doing a complete gel restore, i would take it to the smooth surface. Prep work is always harder and more time consuming,but yields the best finished product

  4. Likes Dave Strong liked this post
  5. #4
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    You will need to get down to good clean substrate.Then a solid base cote of something like Duratec,you can then block it out and you will have a good solid base color to shoot color and flake on.The Duratec is high build easy to shoot and is poly compatible.

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  7. #5
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    Thanks for the input guys...not exactly what I wanted to hear... but what I needed to hear so it's more sanding...yuk! In all reality it's easier to sand it down more now that having to redo the whole thing later. Did the pics in my next post come thru? When I got home this evening and checked the posts the pics weren't there so I edited the post and relisted the pics. They're showing up on my computer. Thanks again.

  8. #6
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    Id take that rubrail off also

  9. #7
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    Ya pics are good

  10. #8
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    Rubrail is installed just so I could glass the inside of the gunwhale and flip the boat over....will come off before gelcoating.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeylarge View Post
    Id take that rubrail off also

  11. #9
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    What a cool boat....gonna be nice !!!

  12. Likes DanUmbarger liked this post
  13. #10
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    from what I've herd ,,, spraying gel can be diffilcult because it's so thick it won't be slick and smooth. doing a similar job on an Action, cutting through about 6 layers of hard assed paint, once I get to the original gel it doesn't even faze the surface of it but have a ton of surface spider cracks in the gel itself. was advised by a high end painter that has done the same thing to a vintage vette to use a product called " feather fill " to fill in all the cracks in the surface and then do a final sanding to a smooth surface, and I'm going to paint. House of colors has metal flake paint that the coustom car guys use. I'm just going with a nice color paint as I never was a big fan of metal flake, just a little to Elvis-Evel Kenevel to me. my project is a '77' hull, but the added cost of the flake paint I'm pretty much leaning away from. hope this helps. fun out
    most overnite successes usually take at least 10 years


    Certified turd polisher,

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