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  1. #16
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    It seems to me that "toughness" is more important and harder to achieve than outright "strength". The CarbonCore/NidCore info is here: http://www.carbon-core.com/applications-marine.htm#

  2. #17
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    I'm sure I will have some but it will be a while before I start using it. I'll try to remember you.
    Speed cost money. How fast you wanna go?
    I have done so much with so little for so long, I can now do the impossible with nothing!

  3. #18
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  4. #19
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    So here is a pic of the stringers system, pretty simple, the transom is only square in center of stern, 3/4" plywood wont be very heavy, probably simpler to use ply for stringers, there a couple bulkheads in the grid, but they also act as the ski locker foundation.stringers also only run on top of the coring, which is only in the pad.

  5. #20
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    Last edited by Varmint; 12-21-2016 at 01:29 PM.

  6. #21
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  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by tunnels View Post
    You do know that stringers should never have anything attached to them and they should be able to bend a little or they will break ??
    The core could really be anything !! it gives little to the stringer strength its the glass you use that's doing all the work the core is just a former that's all
    All this is just for starters !
    stringers should never have anything attached to them ?? HIGHLY disagree. When you have the floor attached to the top side of stringers, it GREATLY increases the strength and rigidity of them. Essentially turning them from a "T" bar into an "I" beam. Less flex, the better.

    The core could really be anything !! it gives little to the stringer strength its the glass you use that's doing all the work. Also Highly disagree. Depends on the core material, and whether it was bonded. For instance, if you use wood as a stringer, epoxy resin and fiberglass is going to bond VERY well, and the wood its self will be the strength, as the bottom edge is glued to the fiberglass hull. The weak point is if you have a thin hull, the stringer may flex side to side (port / starboard). If you put a floor in on top, you're essentially going to be indestructible. . . . take a look at the stringers I put into my bayliner. Just simple 2x6 home depot lumber, cheap, but very strong. Fillet joints on the bottom, and glassed over the top of that.

    You want to use the plastic core material though... You may need polyurethane in lieu of epoxy to get the same bond. it will create a strong vertical stringer, but will not be as strong in port-starboard flex as the bow of your boat hits a wave and wants to fold the boat in half.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by home made tunnel View Post
    stringers should never have anything attached to them ?? HIGHLY disagree. When you have the floor attached to the top side of stringers, it GREATLY increases the strength and rigidity of them. Essentially turning them from a "T" bar into an "I" beam. Less flex, the better.

    The core could really be anything !! it gives little to the stringer strength its the glass you use that's doing all the work. Also Highly disagree. Depends on the core material, and whether it was bonded. For instance, if you use wood as a stringer, epoxy resin and fiberglass is going to bond VERY well, and the wood its self will be the strength, as the bottom edge is glued to the fiberglass hull. The weak point is if you have a thin hull, the stringer may flex side to side (port / starboard). If you put a floor in on top, you're essentially going to be indestructible. . . . take a look at the stringers I put into my bayliner. Just simple 2x6 home depot lumber, cheap, but very strong. Fillet joints on the bottom, and glassed over the top of that.

    You want to use the plastic core material though... You may need polyurethane in lieu of epoxy to get the same bond. it will create a strong vertical stringer, but will not be as strong in port-starboard flex as the bow of your boat hits a wave and wants to fold the boat in half.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thank all you guys, i really think that i will just use plywood, there is very little stringers in it,maybe 10' in the pad and tied to the lower transom, being full tunnels with the center pod, the deck over the tunnel flat area out to it's edges ties alot of that port/stbd. Flex.there are also knees that tie the topcap back to the deck full length, and topcap is fully glassed to hull

  9. #24
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    decks removed over tunnels to get old foam removed

  10. #25
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    Decks were all old chopper gunned 1/4" ply and not much resin,it's an 89 ae 21 same hull as an HST

  11. #26
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    Last edited by Varmint; 12-21-2016 at 02:15 PM.

  12. #27
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    Tunnel opening from front leading edge

  13. #28
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    Nice old boat..... If you want to go composite, I would use some coosa board replace the ply. Ply will work good too. Just seal it well.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    Nice old boat..... If you want to go composite, I would use some coosa board replace the ply. Ply will work good too. Just seal it well.
    I always did plan on ply,but ran into the plasticore at a comparable price to ply, my actual dilemma was vinylester or epoxy. Lol, i have access to good BC Fir, in marine and AC grade sanded both sides, with very few knots

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by olboatman View Post
    I am not a boat designer or structional engineer BUT I disagree with the statement that the stringer core gives little strength and it is just a former. I would compare their strength to horizontal beams I use in the homes I build. The reason we have gone to LVL beams is that the TOTAL beam is orientated (wood grain) for strength to take the vertical load. Saying that the core is not important is like me telling the building inspector that unloaded window headers( hollow short beams) are as strong as loaded(solid core) ones! Common since tells me that the stringer core is one of the most important decisions to be made in hull strength.....thats why wood boat builders use specific species of wood for their frame work! I do agree that adhesion to the hull is of upmost importance also. Gary
    The stringers are actually only 10-12' max, yes they will be bonded directly to the base of the transom and on the center line fwd. They will be bedded on a flush surface ,which is the pad and it is balsa cored. This is the center sponson,the outer sponsons are already tied together about 2/3 of the way up from their bottoms. On top of that was poured foam,and 1/4" deck covering that. The top deck and foam have been removed. Everything will get sanded for some tooth and a fresh sealer of csm and resin. Then i can bed my stringers to that fresh stuff. No foam is going back in the sponsons, nor much deck over outer sponsons. I am using knees to support the topcap, hull in lieu od deck. Much less weight
    Last edited by Varmint; 12-21-2016 at 05:13 PM.

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