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  1. #1
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    Anybody used PP Plasticore ?

    It is a honeycomb that comes with a thin cloth veil for laminating, 1/2,3/4 &1" thickness', am looking at it for stringer/knee core.

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    I think that's what NidaCore (now CarbonCore) is... and I have used that. http://www.lbifiberglass.com/NIDA/nida.html

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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by David - WI View Post
    I think that's what NidaCore (now CarbonCore) is... and I have used that. http://www.lbifiberglass.com/NIDA/nida.html
    Seems very similar,

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    Quote Originally Posted by Varmint View Post
    It is a honeycomb that comes with a thin cloth veil for laminating, 1/2,3/4 &1" thickness', am looking at it for stringer/knee core.
    For what you are wanting to make CORE is just giving you a part of the strength you are wanting ,the glass you choose and how you use it is giving you your ultimate strength ! and woven glass of any sort or weight is definitely not what you should even be considering !!.
    Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!

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    well that don't come near answering the question,plse. don't take another thread south,I could lay up shop rags over it, and it will be stronger than it was originally built,,,I'd prefer to hear from folks that can recommend the product,of the subject

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    I didn't do any actual "structural" repairs... my floor, my rear seat base, and my seat cushions (the back & bottom of the rear seat and the front seat cushions along with replacing the plywood that was in the front seat bases) that were all plywood. I used 1/2" NdaCore, epoxy, and vacuum bagged the glass.

    They are all plenty strong / stiff for what they are... for structural parts I would have used more glass for sure. I think I saved 40# versus the plywood I took out but I can't find the sheet where I wrote all the weights down.

    I found the NidaCore kind of hard to make nice looking edges because the little honeycombs pull out along the edge when cutting through some of them; making it a little bit jagged... I filled any edges with epoxy mixed with fluffy filler (whatever that crap is called) and sanded them straight before I glassed over them.

    I don't have any secrets... I just don't know very much. Any thing I can answer, I will.

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Varmint View Post
    well that don't come near answering the question,plse. don't take another thread south,I could lay up shop rags over it, and it will be stronger than it was originally built,,,I'd prefer to hear from folks that can recommend the product,of the subject
    Stringers need width so the thicker the core the better !
    What height are you going to make your stringers??
    how long will they be ?
    How do you intend to glass them ??
    Are they going to be mounted on top of a core or is the hull solid glass ??
    Have you considered making a glass pad for the stringers to sit on ?
    What do you know about coving the corners where the stringers fit to the hull so the glass wont break so easy ??
    What about the top shape of the core so glass will wrap over the top ?
    what shape should the top be and how do you form that shape ??
    You do know that stringers should never have anything attached to them and they should be able to bend a little or they will break ??
    The type of glass you should use is a triaxle 45/90/45! will give you the best vertical strength on the sides !
    The core could really be anything !! it gives little to the stringer strength its the glass you use that's doing all the work the core is just a former that's all
    All this is just for starters !
    Last edited by tunnels; 12-20-2016 at 10:23 PM.
    Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tunnels View Post
    Stringers need width so the thicker the core the better !
    What height are you going to make your stringers??
    how long will they be ?
    How do you intend to glass them ??
    Are they going to be mounted on top of a core or is the hull solid glass ??
    Have you considered making a glass pad for the stringers to sit on ?
    What do you know about coving the corners where the stringers fit to the hull so the glass wont break so easy ??
    What about the top shape of the core so glass will wrap over the top ?
    what shape should the top be and how do you form that shape ??
    You do know that stringers should never have anything attached to them and they should be able to bend a little or they will break ??
    The type of glass you should use is a triaxle 45/90/45! will give you the best vertical strength on the sides !
    The core could really be anything !! it gives little to the stringer strength its the glass you use that's doing all the work the core is just a former that's all
    All this is just for starters !
    I am not a boat designer or structional engineer BUT I disagree with the statement that the stringer core gives little strength and it is just a former. I would compare their strength to horizontal beams I use in the homes I build. The reason we have gone to LVL beams is that the TOTAL beam is orientated (wood grain) for strength to take the vertical load. Saying that the core is not important is like me telling the building inspector that unloaded window headers( hollow short beams) are as strong as loaded(solid core) ones! Common since tells me that the stringer core is one of the most important decisions to be made in hull strength.....thats why wood boat builders use specific species of wood for their frame work! I do agree that adhesion to the hull is of upmost importance also. Gary
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  11. #9
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    Think of nida core and most honeycomb cores as nothing but a form for the glass to follow when used as a floor, bulkhead or stringer matl. You have to use more glass to get much rigidity. After all, it's hollow right? A solid core will need less glass to achieve the same strength. Vertical supports like a large sailboat bulkhead is where honey comb really works well in weight savings with little integrity lost.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
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  12. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    Think of nida core and most honeycomb cores as nothing but a form for the glass to follow when used as a floor, bulkhead or stringer matl. You have to use more glass to get much rigidity. After all, it's hollow right? A solid core will need less glass to achieve the same strength. Vertical supports like a large sailboat bulkhead is where honey comb really works well in weight savings with little integrity lost.
    The strength comes from separating the two faces of the "beam" you're creating... like an I-beam, the center web really does nothing but separate the two flanges so they don't buckle.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The "core" can be light and weak; but it adds incredible strength to the beam by keeping the two faces apart. The further apart the faces are, the stronger the beam is and/or the thinner & weaker the faces can be.

  13. #11
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    "The "core" can be light and weak; but it adds incredible strength to the beam by keeping the two faces apart. The further apart the faces are, the stronger the beam is and/or the thinner & weaker the faces can be"

    I agree with you David..... The thing is, a hollow core takes a vertical load lots better than a horizontal one. IE: bulkheads and stringers. Use the same glass skin on each core and see what has the most strength. Not saying honeycomb is not a good core, just different physicals....jm2cts

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
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  14. #12
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    I think that when you put them on edge like a stringer, all the core is doing is keeping the faces from buckling... so they probably end up about the same?

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    On the vertical very close to the same, on the horizontal no. This is why the honeycombs have never been a popular core for hull bottoms. You can use them, but not going to have the same impact resistance as a core cell or divinnycell core. They all have their own drawbacks and benefits.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
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  16. #14
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    Hi Varmint, Don't you post on BBC as, cajunrgfm? Can't help you on the PP Plasticore but I recently puchased the same type of material from Carbon-core and was impressed with fit and finish. It was laminated with 18oz woven each side. Reasonably priced for space age material! LOL I am using it for basically what you want it for.
    Speed cost money. How fast you wanna go?
    I have done so much with so little for so long, I can now do the impossible with nothing!

  17. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by One Oldman View Post
    Hi Varmint, Don't you post on BBC as, cajunrgfm? Can't help you on the PP Plasticore but I recently puchased the same type of material from Carbon-core and was impressed with fit and finish. It was laminated with 18oz woven each side. Reasonably priced for space age material! LOL I am using it for basically what you want it for.
    If you have any "scraps" left; I would be happy to pay the shipping for a 3" x 12" piece or something similar to compare to mine.

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