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11-29-2016, 06:16 PM #16Screaming And Flying!
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Wow, that's a deal.
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11-29-2016, 07:27 PM #175000 RPM
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I hate you, just kidding, you did good
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11-29-2016, 10:22 PM #18
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11-30-2016, 01:40 PM #19
Yes, Indeed that is a beauty!
Mine does not have the short LU or the LWPU.
I can change the DS and loose the spacer, and cone it for LWPU it if need be, albeit won't be fast enough to need the cone otherwise. Not sure how fast a light Vector will go with this mil...? Still, it will look great and be a fun boat.
James
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11-30-2016, 05:39 PM #20
78-80 is attainable if everything is perfect. Mid 70's generally. It was already .040 over and well abused when I got it. I put together another block that I cut on and tried some stuff, it ran 81 with a 28 et on my vector. I lost that prop, shaft, carrier when the nut decided to uncork itself. Melted the deflector on #6 a week later for whatever reason and went to a 2005 xr6. So it's going to just be a stand queen now. Mragu sold me a NOS set of decals that are beautiful.
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11-30-2016, 08:50 PM #21
Started "tinkerin" on it today..rainin outside and the V-King is under a canopy, with drizzle still getting on it. The PM for the V-King is awaiting some block work...So I am curious whats inside the 150.
Wondering how hard it will be finding a set of salad tongs to install the pistons, but that's looking to far ahead. Was just gonna let it set until later....
I really love the red XS colors. Found some aftermarket blue stripe for about $80, and about the same for the red XS. Guess it should stay year correct?
James
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12-03-2016, 11:07 PM #22
Man i love those 150XS motors. If that Vector is red with an XS we talking SEXY! Had a bud that finger ported one and ran it on his Vandel. Finger porting added some snap. Not sure how he did it on the Merc inline but we did it on a OMC V-4 X-flow by drilling in right above the wrist pin and cutting small ports in the cylinder walls.
DBLast edited by Da Bull; 12-03-2016 at 11:20 PM.
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12-04-2016, 12:02 PM #235000 RPM
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couple of thoughts, have you tried installing the rods and pistons one at a time, then the crank and I guess Vaseline the rod bearings??? also, how about cutting out the bolt on the reed cages under the carbs, you leave the other bolt alone, it will hold the reed cages together as you assemble the block halves and they keep them together afterwards?? cut the bolt mounts out and match the taper on the rest of the cage
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W2F a V-King thanked for this post
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12-04-2016, 12:41 PM #24
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12-04-2016, 12:43 PM #25
Yessir! Haven't used them yet. But the motor is totally disassembled and going out to powder coat after the holidays. I thank you again for them I wish I had my old Burgess back to put it on when it's done. :/
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12-04-2016, 12:55 PM #26
Well as easy as it would be to make it a red XS, it's not. And to keep it all correct, I'll be looking for a set of 1975 1500 striping. The Vector is not painted at this time, Red was a thought for the boat until I came across this pic of a blue one.... The decal says 1150, but for unknown reasons 1500 decal was changed to 1150...it is a 150ss.
Got this pic here on S&F, owner is JWTjr. Found the thread with pics while researching the J-blocks...Sweet boat for sure !
Hope it's OK to borrow the pic...
James
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12-04-2016, 01:02 PM #27
Shipping sucks, but I can assemble Inlines properly if you need it done.
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12-04-2016, 01:09 PM #28
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12-04-2016, 01:13 PM #295000 RPM
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How did I miss this in my backyard... at least you got a plan for it. I still plan on building my 140 inline.
Lynn might still need some parts if you keep stock pile. My service manager keeps on asking me to buy another motor so he can build on it as he just put together my 2.0; seems like he is bored.
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12-04-2016, 01:19 PM #30
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Michael J Giesler liked this post
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