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  1. #31
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    dont get caught up in the monkey see monkey do thinking i not much on opionins rather share facts that i have proven to help others not waste thier time and money on something that eventually prove wastefull. new ideas are always encouraged. money can buy speed but cant but personal acomplishment.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer View Post
    I use to get a big piece of brass and grind the cup profile I wanted into it and mount it in a very large vise. I would then lay the prop over the brass and use a lead hammer to add the cup. Doing it this way does not mark the propeller as much.
    i used a oak 2x4 and a BIG vise.

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  4. #33
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    I should be well on the way as I too have a big vise and plenty of 2x4 and plenty of hammers ha ha .
    I will try to get a bit of decent light and take some pics, I did have it almost how I wanted then when I started to polish it I saw all the bad bits.. Grrr.
    so ive put a bit of elbow grease into now and dont a bit if rubbing down by hand.
    also while doing this I am making another propeller balancer too, very simple and crude thing that involves a snooker ball

    I dont expect this to be a miracle prop, not by a long way, but unless I give it a go I will never know. it was no good to me like it was, so cant realy lose.
    plus It keeps the mind ticking away in old age

    .

  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    I should be well on the way as I too have a big vise and plenty of 2x4 and plenty of hammers ha ha .
    I will try to get a bit of decent light and take some pics, I did have it almost how I wanted then when I started to polish it I saw all the bad bits.. Grrr.
    so ive put a bit of elbow grease into now and dont a bit if rubbing down by hand.
    also while doing this I am making another propeller balancer too, very simple and crude thing that involves a snooker ball

    I dont expect this to be a miracle prop, not by a long way, but unless I give it a go I will never know. it was no good to me like it was, so cant realy lose.
    plus It keeps the mind ticking away in old age

    .
    Help me out here....whats a "snooker" ball? Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
    "72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)

    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

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  7. #35
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    Snooker ball
    little ball 2 inches round, solid, gets hit by a bloke with a stick = snooker ball. nowdays made from solid resin, used to be solid ivory.
    snooker is played on a big table by two blokes who like to drink beer and smoke. its like the grown up's version of pool as in pool table.

    Here is an Alien telling another Alien what snooker is .
    here dave, never guess what I saw them humans doing .... go on ian tell us what you saw.

    well I was watching two grown human men poking 5ft long sticks at a little white ball on a big green coloured table hoping the little whiter ball rolls into a red coloured
    ball and then that red ball drops into a small pocket at the corner or middle edge of the table..
    these two berks dress up for this and even wear bow ties, and sometimes even lay on the table to poke at the little white ball ...
    very funny to watch for a minute or two ,but then gets realy boring.
    oh and there is a third bloke who is the referee, probably there incase a fight breaks out ??? lots of people watching this drink beer....

    bloody funny fings them humans ha ah ha .

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  9. #36
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    I just use the half spheres as cones to go on a central rod to make a prop balancer. hence solid snooker ball cut in half and drilled through.
    with a nut each side of the sphere on a threaded rod tightened up, it centralises the prop hub like cones would.
    you put the rounded half toward the hub and tighten the nuts

    rod with prop is then suspended on 2 bearing each end, pretty simple. as in this pic.

    this is not my one, I will take a pic of mine and pics of it in separate bits, dead easy to make. can even make a pocket size version too.

    .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSC_5115.jpg  

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  11. #37
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    well this is my attempt at making a prop balancer and it works perfectly.
    the spheres I made from a snooker ball/pool hall were ok but not perfect, so I just stick a bolt through each one at a time put it
    in the bench drill and fired up my little 4 1/2 " grinder and made them into cones instead.
    Now they are perfect, they run nice and true as does the hub of the prop when I spin it.
    I have already balanced my srx prop, that was about 1/2 ounce out on one blade and is now stopping in various places instead of
    keep stopping at one particular point.

    still have a touch of polishing to do on that prop so will re-balance after polishing too.

    anyway here first is the snooker ball and then into 2 halfs to make the spheres then the cones etc.

    and a little vid is here https://youtu.be/wQtDo4HbNu0
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20170122_133910.jpg   20170122_140744.jpg   20170123_143103.jpg   20170306_182501.jpg   20170306_182419.jpg  

    20170306_183011.jpg  

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  13. #38
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    thats a trick set up,im'a have-ta make me one-a them!

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  15. #39
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    next thing I will do is put on a little 3 way spirit level on the base of it.
    first get it set up so the rod is dead level left right etc then forward backwards.
    then mount a little cheap spirit level like the caravans have . i will put a little pool of epoxy on the base and set the level perfect both ways.
    on the base I have welded nuts on the inside so bolts going through the bottom can be adjusted for any uneven surface to level it up easy and quickly.

    the only thing I would like now is to get a thicker shaft, this rod is a bit thin, it does the job without deflecting, but about 1/2 inch would be much better.

    it cost me nothing to make, everything made from old scrap lying around. so its been a needed item with no cost, very unusual for a boat item.

    The snooker or pool balls are a nice hard tough resin and will not dig into the prop hubs and deform, and will not damage the prop splines.

    I have tried another prop that I knew was slightly out of balance loads of times by taking it off then putting it back on the shaft in a different place and
    also swapping the cones over etc to see what happens, and every time the exact same blade lands at almost the bottom in exact same place.
    so I do know its very efficient and pretty accurate for static balance.
    trick is to have nice free running bearings and have the two each end very close to each other to eliminate any binding.

    dead easy project, now to just finish cupping the prop that got put to one side while doing this .
    ill take more pics of the prop next time .

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  17. #40
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    I have used this for 4 props and find that it works perfectly well.

    BUT
    To be honest the main rod needs to be a bit thicker and stronger, I will be looking for a bit of 1/2 in solid stainless.
    it works great, but with a much stronger bar it will last a lifetime.
    I do like my stuff to be bale to take a bashing ha ha

    I will also be drilling a hole on each upright, so I can put the bar in there when not in use to save losing it.
    plus gives it a handle to move it around.

    Yes you can go to a cheap store and buy a motorcycle tyre balancer and save all the time and effort of making one, but they are not as strong
    and by doing it yourself you can make it a size to suit your needs. mine will take a diameter of around
    The last thing I want is a prop to fall onto the floor and ding the blades.
    By having a real heavy base it makes it extremely sturdy...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20170309_192156.jpg   smooth .jpg  

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  19. #41
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    well today I tried the prop with the cupping on the tips, to tal disaster for what I wanted from, but uts incredible for bite.
    I also vented the prop while I was polishing etc, so as to do the job just the once.
    From xzero to plane is well under 3 seconds, but then just jeeps making the transom rise and rise above 30mph ?
    also at 40 to42 mph the cupping on the tips seem to make the boat chinewalk ???

    it did NOT raise the bow, infact the very opposite. this will make great prop for pulling toys around.
    pics to follow

  20. #42
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    It may need more rake now .....don't think ya can do that at home!
    Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
    "72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)

    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

  21. #43
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    lots of people say you can change the rake, well that is not exactly true, to change the rake the blades would need to be taken off the hub, cut at
    base then re-attached.
    there is no other way to change the rake without doing it that way.
    adding tip cup is a sort of way to add a touch of rake, but the rest of the entire blade is still at the same angle.

    Adding cup to the tip[ of this 17 pitch makes it a very aggressive prop in that the slip is very minimal and you can turn as sharp as you like the
    prop just dont let go. But it has bought with it this chine walking and at just around the 40mph mark ?
    My boat dont normaly chine walk at 44.5mph the most I have got it to so far with a 21 pitch.
    I have several of this type of prop and none give this type of ride, before the tip cupping it was a stable prop just like the rest of them.
    Now its like an animal that needs to be tamed, the zero to 6,000 rpm is incredible, this prop from the word go is just nuts and make my boat stand
    up almost vertical when even fully trimmed in. Normally with say a 15 pitch prop trimmed in and just wack the throttle fully open the bow of my boat raises to about 4 to 5 feet from water surface then leaps forward, with this prop the bow is around 8 feet from the water surface and remember the boat is
    only 13ft long and similar to Boston whaler or Carolina skiff.
    so for holeshot it great and great to get to max but makes the boat dangerous and very hard to handle and lifts the stern more than when no cupping on the tips of the blades.
    Oh and just one more thing that is going to sound daft, its very noisy !!!! the exhaust from the prop sounds much louder and I cant see any reason for this.
    Yes I did vent the prop, but no different than I do to the others.

    So to sum up the difference is now this.
    faster from zero to max rpm, noisy, and bad handling and causing chine walking and a skew to the right
    (prop is pulling hull down on the starboard side).
    for me this means a failure for my boat with just 1 person on board.

  22. #44
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    You reduced your props slip percentage big time. You now have more wheel torque as you have more "traction." Cup is a very big factor on most props. If you look at props types, the cleavers have little to no cup. Very stable top end and increase slip, not much bow lift. Round ear props like choppers have a large cup. Increase bow lift and traction, reducing slip. As you found out, slip is not always a bad thing.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  24. #45
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    yeah the slip has gone and the prop grips great, 100% improvement for acceleration .
    But why am I getting such chine walk at a speed lower than it normally runs with good steady handling ?
    Never I have I got chine walk with this boat, how it did not completely go over at just 40mph I realy dont know.
    I got chucked out of my seat and sent into the passenger side of the boat.
    Hard to describe what it was like plus it was bouncing around terribly.

    My main question and concern is
    why has adding cup to the tips made the prop more of a stern lifter and not bow lifter like everyone seems to say it should be ?
    .

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