User Tag List

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 53
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Tenkiller Lake, OK
    Posts
    520
    Thanks (Given)
    3
    Thanks (Received)
    34
    Likes (Given)
    137
    Likes (Received)
    209
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    Cheers Gary you have just answered the question I was looking for , 1700deg f is the heat needed to use for stainless, I presume thats what you meant.

    1700F is a bit different to 200deg C that I got told.. i didn't think 200C would be enough to make much difference .
    I make 170-F around 920 deg C... thats a bit warm ha ha . (have to remember not to touch it)...
    will try on a bit of scrap stainless to see if my little torch can get it up to that temp.
    I will just weld up a mandrel and give it a go with the propane if I can get the heat in the tips. if it works, then brilliant, if it dont then its another on my ever growing list of fails.
    If you heat a stainless steel prop to temps that make it malleable, which it is now annealed which is now soft and susceptible to bending much easier. No bueno! It must be re heat treated to gain it's properties back.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    slough, england, united kingdom
    Posts
    1,400
    Thanks (Given)
    143
    Thanks (Received)
    68
    Likes (Given)
    407
    Likes (Received)
    187
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Mmmm that brings it back to just being walloped with a hammer then ?
    .

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    5,320
    Thanks (Given)
    1000
    Thanks (Received)
    763
    Likes (Given)
    9055
    Likes (Received)
    5971
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Annealing makes the part soft and malleable at room temperature, which is different than bending it while hot... the "not above 1700F" instruction is meant to prevent you from accidentally annealing the prop. Annealing stainless usually takes an hour or more at temperatures above 1900F from what I have read.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    slough, england, united kingdom
    Posts
    1,400
    Thanks (Given)
    143
    Thanks (Received)
    68
    Likes (Given)
    407
    Likes (Received)
    187
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I will be giving this a go over the next week, got to get into the garage and get the electric heater working. make my mandrel for it.
    will be great if it works and helps raise the bow, hopefully then get another 2 or 3mph .

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    windham nh
    Posts
    3,182
    Thanks (Given)
    151
    Thanks (Received)
    117
    Likes (Given)
    951
    Likes (Received)
    755
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    I will be giving this a go over the next week, got to get into the garage and get the electric heater working. make my mandrel for it.
    will be great if it works and helps raise the bow, hopefully then get another 2 or 3mph .
    Could you please take pics as you go about this and post them here for us? I'm sure there are a lot of members that are interested in this. Thanks Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
    "72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)

    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    slough, england, united kingdom
    Posts
    1,400
    Thanks (Given)
    143
    Thanks (Received)
    68
    Likes (Given)
    407
    Likes (Received)
    187
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    yeah sure, once I make a rough sort of mandrel effort ill start taking lots of pics along the way.
    dont expect pretty pics ha ha I am sure its going to look realy before it gets pretty.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Venice, Florida
    Posts
    9,630
    Thanks (Given)
    22
    Thanks (Received)
    109
    Likes (Given)
    402
    Likes (Received)
    719
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    2 Thread(s)
    Ive spent a lot of time watching Rich Junker do this free hand. Prop in a holding tool, brass hammer in one hand and brass puck in the other. He makes it look SO easy LOL.
    13' Biel tunnel AKA "Flight Risk"
    13" Modified Yamaha V4 - 101 mph

    21' Paramount
    Mercury 300 Promax

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    HUDSON, FLORIDA
    Posts
    486
    Thanks (Given)
    15
    Thanks (Received)
    4
    Likes (Given)
    53
    Likes (Received)
    39
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Demeanor View Post
    Ive spent a lot of time watching Rich Junker do this free hand. Prop in a holding tool, brass hammer in one hand and brass puck in the other. He makes it look SO easy LOL.
    i cant its still being done with a ball peen. kenny at K&k would stand where i couldnt really see him do my 2 blades way back in the day took about 30 minutes price; 5 bucks looked like factory,better!

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    slough, england, united kingdom
    Posts
    1,400
    Thanks (Given)
    143
    Thanks (Received)
    68
    Likes (Given)
    407
    Likes (Received)
    187
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I am not expecting it to look too pretty at first... custom yeah, pretty very doubtful .

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    slough, england, united kingdom
    Posts
    1,400
    Thanks (Given)
    143
    Thanks (Received)
    68
    Likes (Given)
    407
    Likes (Received)
    187
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ok so I got fed up with looking around for something to make a mandrel etc so I walked the prop to the back of the car, placed blade on
    the 50mm towball and walloped it a few times with a small copper hammer. ( weighs about 8 ounces ).
    Got a surprise straight away, it was better than I was hoping .
    So now being a bit more careful I preceded to the next blade then the next .checking each and every hit with the hammer that it was going to plan.
    once I done this I went to my garage and put the prop on a true flat surface and measured the prop blades, one of them was 1/8 lower than the
    other two so not too much of a problem to deal with later..

    I then looked around for something to measure inside the cup of the blades and noticed there was slight differences between all of them , but
    again nothing too much.

    Then I start getting some real strange idea's creeping in again, but just not finding anything the right size amongst all my junk and bits of
    old scrap steel and brass and anything chucked in the corner etc.
    But today I went to clamp a piece of steel to the blade and the steel slipped off leaving me a with a propeller and a large G clamp, I think you
    call them a C clamp in the states.
    Anyway when looking at the clamp, I noticed that the flat disc that is on a swivel at the bottom of the threaded end looked a bit like what I want !!!
    so yep I tightened the clamp and gave a few taps on the tip with a small copper hammer.
    These stainless props bend so easy with gentle tapping I was amazed at how good its coming along.
    Will get some more pics as soon as I get back into the garage and tamper with this some more.
    I was only in the garage for less than 10 minutes ...
    The pic below makes it look like a larger area is cupped than actually is, the cupped part is about 1/2 inch from the end and not to violent a curve,
    it is only about as sharp as normal cupping on trailing edge so not a radical amount.
    with a bit more cleaning up and a polish this will be ready for trying ito ut.
    I still need to get the blades to same height, its now one blade is 1/16th lower than the other two blades but this can be sorted very easy.
    No heat has been used at all, just light tapping with small copper hammer, bit at a time and its working good.

    the prop is an original omc sst prop, so not a mickey mouse solas prop that is known to be very soft.
    I am surprised just how easy it is to bend the stainless with a small copper hammer.

    will be posting lots of pics as I go along,

    in the pic I have put a sort of diagram to show roughly how much cup I have managed to put in.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails prop pic for s & f forum.jpg  

  11. Thanks Slimm thanked for this post
    Likes NICE PAIR, Slimm liked this post
  12. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    windham nh
    Posts
    3,182
    Thanks (Given)
    151
    Thanks (Received)
    117
    Likes (Given)
    951
    Likes (Received)
    755
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have a hammer just like yours Phil that my dad made at school 80 odd yrs ago! Now ya got me thinking after seeing your job. I would like to add some cup to the tip of a prop I use on my SLT that doesn't give enough bow lift. Keep the pics comming as I am learning. BTW Looks like you are working it out ...... No better satisfaction than doin it yourself and seeing a performance difference!!! Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
    "72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)

    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

  13. Likes NICE PAIR, Slimm liked this post
  14. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    slough, england, united kingdom
    Posts
    1,400
    Thanks (Given)
    143
    Thanks (Received)
    68
    Likes (Given)
    407
    Likes (Received)
    187
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have now got all 3 blades pretty much equal to each other height wise.i have lost about 3/8 inch in diameter doing this but thats no problem.
    One top has proven to be a real pig, sounds daft but that blade is definitely harder on the tip than the other two.???
    I put a 34mm socket on the prop face by the cup and put it in the vice to get me a bit nearer to the roundness if that makes sense. 3
    if you dont have something to clamp to it, then too much bend in the blade happens ( how do I know this, because I got 1 blade 5/8ths too high Grrr).

    The 34mm socket is about the right diameter for the radius of the cup I wanted, and with a bit of an old leather belt between that and the prop you dont
    get any marks on the face of the prop so not too bad to polish it up.
    will take some more pics when I get into the garage, been a bit cold the last few days and with rain it has stopped me having the electric lead down there.
    I am wondering what to do as per the finish on the cupped part of the propeller ??? I have seen some very high performance props that have a bead blasted
    finish on just the cupped area of the blades ? I have no idea what that could or would do for bowlift or performance , if anyone here knows then let me know too please.

    I am happy with how it is coming along so far, the finish will be good as that is just down to how much I polish it up, the prop did have some very bad marks that
    have now been polished out.
    the hub with its bad marks and casting gritty bits is now looking a lot better, 90% of the bad marks are gone so I expect it to be way out of balance now.
    if I need to remove much I will get rid of material on the inside of the hub by the gearcase and the other end by the prop nut rather than take it off the blades.
    I will balance it vertical and horizontal if that makes sense so the hub is sort of balanced.

    will take pics and this time TRY not to accidently delete them,

    I have been scouring the net and seen some very peculiar things people have done to props and got some good results, some were terrible of course ha ha .
    just hoping mine dont go in the terrible bracket.

  15. Likes NICE PAIR liked this post
  16. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    HUDSON, FLORIDA
    Posts
    486
    Thanks (Given)
    15
    Thanks (Received)
    4
    Likes (Given)
    53
    Likes (Received)
    39
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i found my thumb as the best gauge for cup. when my thumb feels good sitting in cup not too steep or too shallow i go on to next blade. i rely on feel more than visual eyes closed go blade to blade. had great results. had a boat that would not plane motor high 2 prop shops couldnt get it right some hardwood, ballpeen hammer and bingo holeshot city low slip#. no need to over engineer little ding or two dont worry water is very forgiving. been at it over 40 years remember the show dosnt make the go! remember prop isnt spinning crankshaft speed and current hubs are far from pricision coupling.

  17. Likes olboatman, phillnjack liked this post
  18. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    slough, england, united kingdom
    Posts
    1,400
    Thanks (Given)
    143
    Thanks (Received)
    68
    Likes (Given)
    407
    Likes (Received)
    187
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I like your way of thinking Magcat 62. god didn't gives up thumbs for nothing, sometimes the feel of something is definitely better than spending an
    hour measuring it only to find its ok anyway.
    too many people are just so not willing to even give it a try, my way of thinking is do it on a prop that at the moment is semi-crap.
    If the crap prop becomes a good one then its win win situation and you have achieved it yourself.

  19. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    HUDSON, FLORIDA
    Posts
    486
    Thanks (Given)
    15
    Thanks (Received)
    4
    Likes (Given)
    53
    Likes (Received)
    39
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    gary; my dad (RIP) USED to say to me, son why cant you just leave it alone, stop messin with stuff! now im 66 still messin with stuff.

  20. Likes NICE PAIR, olboatman liked this post
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Adding cup to a propeller at home
    By mrpenguin in forum Technical Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 10-02-2013, 09:13 AM
  2. Effects of moving prop back on propshaft? (adding a second trust washer)
    By Mr. Demeanor in forum Props, Setup, and Rigging
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-14-2011, 09:21 PM
  3. Adding setback or work prop?
    By bluecheckmate in forum Props, Setup, and Rigging
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 08-10-2010, 01:37 PM
  4. adding a stainless marine twin bracket
    By advancedmarine in forum Fiberglass and Composites Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-23-2008, 02:21 PM
  5. Ventilating a prop at home?
    By Pro300x24LD in forum Props, Setup, and Rigging
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-18-2007, 05:58 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Frank Mole Transport