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11-30-2016, 05:30 PM #16
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12-01-2016, 02:14 PM #17
Mmmm that brings it back to just being walloped with a hammer then ?
.
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12-01-2016, 03:02 PM #18
Annealing makes the part soft and malleable at room temperature, which is different than bending it while hot... the "not above 1700F" instruction is meant to prevent you from accidentally annealing the prop. Annealing stainless usually takes an hour or more at temperatures above 1900F from what I have read.
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12-01-2016, 06:26 PM #19
I will be giving this a go over the next week, got to get into the garage and get the electric heater working. make my mandrel for it.
will be great if it works and helps raise the bow, hopefully then get another 2 or 3mph .
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12-01-2016, 07:21 PM #20"12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
"77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
"72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)
"Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau
"This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking
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12-01-2016, 08:02 PM #21
yeah sure, once I make a rough sort of mandrel effort ill start taking lots of pics along the way.
dont expect pretty pics ha ha I am sure its going to look realy before it gets pretty.
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12-04-2016, 10:56 PM #22
Ive spent a lot of time watching Rich Junker do this free hand. Prop in a holding tool, brass hammer in one hand and brass puck in the other. He makes it look SO easy LOL.
13' Biel tunnel AKA "Flight Risk"
13" Modified Yamaha V4 - 101 mph
21' Paramount
Mercury 300 Promax
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12-05-2016, 06:20 PM #23
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12-07-2016, 04:00 PM #24
I am not expecting it to look too pretty at first... custom yeah, pretty very doubtful .
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12-26-2016, 02:38 PM #25
ok so I got fed up with looking around for something to make a mandrel etc so I walked the prop to the back of the car, placed blade on
the 50mm towball and walloped it a few times with a small copper hammer. ( weighs about 8 ounces ).
Got a surprise straight away, it was better than I was hoping .
So now being a bit more careful I preceded to the next blade then the next .checking each and every hit with the hammer that it was going to plan.
once I done this I went to my garage and put the prop on a true flat surface and measured the prop blades, one of them was 1/8 lower than the
other two so not too much of a problem to deal with later..
I then looked around for something to measure inside the cup of the blades and noticed there was slight differences between all of them , but
again nothing too much.
Then I start getting some real strange idea's creeping in again, but just not finding anything the right size amongst all my junk and bits of
old scrap steel and brass and anything chucked in the corner etc.
But today I went to clamp a piece of steel to the blade and the steel slipped off leaving me a with a propeller and a large G clamp, I think you
call them a C clamp in the states.
Anyway when looking at the clamp, I noticed that the flat disc that is on a swivel at the bottom of the threaded end looked a bit like what I want !!!
so yep I tightened the clamp and gave a few taps on the tip with a small copper hammer.
These stainless props bend so easy with gentle tapping I was amazed at how good its coming along.
Will get some more pics as soon as I get back into the garage and tamper with this some more.
I was only in the garage for less than 10 minutes ...
The pic below makes it look like a larger area is cupped than actually is, the cupped part is about 1/2 inch from the end and not to violent a curve,
it is only about as sharp as normal cupping on trailing edge so not a radical amount.
with a bit more cleaning up and a polish this will be ready for trying ito ut.
I still need to get the blades to same height, its now one blade is 1/16th lower than the other two blades but this can be sorted very easy.
No heat has been used at all, just light tapping with small copper hammer, bit at a time and its working good.
the prop is an original omc sst prop, so not a mickey mouse solas prop that is known to be very soft.
I am surprised just how easy it is to bend the stainless with a small copper hammer.
will be posting lots of pics as I go along,
in the pic I have put a sort of diagram to show roughly how much cup I have managed to put in.
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12-26-2016, 07:36 PM #26
I have a hammer just like yours Phil that my dad made at school 80 odd yrs ago! Now ya got me thinking after seeing your job. I would like to add some cup to the tip of a prop I use on my SLT that doesn't give enough bow lift. Keep the pics comming as I am learning. BTW Looks like you are working it out ...... No better satisfaction than doin it yourself and seeing a performance difference!!! Gary
"12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
"77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
"72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)
"Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau
"This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking
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01-10-2017, 06:15 PM #27
I have now got all 3 blades pretty much equal to each other height wise.i have lost about 3/8 inch in diameter doing this but thats no problem.
One top has proven to be a real pig, sounds daft but that blade is definitely harder on the tip than the other two.???
I put a 34mm socket on the prop face by the cup and put it in the vice to get me a bit nearer to the roundness if that makes sense. 3
if you dont have something to clamp to it, then too much bend in the blade happens ( how do I know this, because I got 1 blade 5/8ths too high Grrr).
The 34mm socket is about the right diameter for the radius of the cup I wanted, and with a bit of an old leather belt between that and the prop you dont
get any marks on the face of the prop so not too bad to polish it up.
will take some more pics when I get into the garage, been a bit cold the last few days and with rain it has stopped me having the electric lead down there.
I am wondering what to do as per the finish on the cupped part of the propeller ??? I have seen some very high performance props that have a bead blasted
finish on just the cupped area of the blades ? I have no idea what that could or would do for bowlift or performance , if anyone here knows then let me know too please.
I am happy with how it is coming along so far, the finish will be good as that is just down to how much I polish it up, the prop did have some very bad marks that
have now been polished out.
the hub with its bad marks and casting gritty bits is now looking a lot better, 90% of the bad marks are gone so I expect it to be way out of balance now.
if I need to remove much I will get rid of material on the inside of the hub by the gearcase and the other end by the prop nut rather than take it off the blades.
I will balance it vertical and horizontal if that makes sense so the hub is sort of balanced.
will take pics and this time TRY not to accidently delete them,
I have been scouring the net and seen some very peculiar things people have done to props and got some good results, some were terrible of course ha ha .
just hoping mine dont go in the terrible bracket.
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NICE PAIR liked this post
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01-29-2017, 02:15 PM #28
i found my thumb as the best gauge for cup. when my thumb feels good sitting in cup not too steep or too shallow i go on to next blade. i rely on feel more than visual eyes closed go blade to blade. had great results. had a boat that would not plane motor high 2 prop shops couldnt get it right some hardwood, ballpeen hammer and bingo holeshot city low slip#. no need to over engineer little ding or two dont worry water is very forgiving. been at it over 40 years remember the show dosnt make the go! remember prop isnt spinning crankshaft speed and current hubs are far from pricision coupling.
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olboatman, phillnjack liked this post
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02-05-2017, 09:45 AM #29
I like your way of thinking Magcat 62. god didn't gives up thumbs for nothing, sometimes the feel of something is definitely better than spending an
hour measuring it only to find its ok anyway.
too many people are just so not willing to even give it a try, my way of thinking is do it on a prop that at the moment is semi-crap.
If the crap prop becomes a good one then its win win situation and you have achieved it yourself.
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02-05-2017, 11:33 AM #30
gary; my dad (RIP) USED to say to me, son why cant you just leave it alone, stop messin with stuff! now im 66 still messin with stuff.
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