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11-20-2016, 10:26 AM #1
Adding cup to a stainless prop AT HOME !!!
I need to add cup to the tips of a stainless prop AT HOME , no sending out to prop shops, this has to be done at home or by the river !!
the prop is only going to be experimental so if it goes tits up then so be it. I need to be able to bend the tips and possibly a bit of the trailing edge to
get what I am after.
I need lots of extra tip cup and possibly a slight bit more cup to trailing edge. The tips I want to make like a large kitchen spoon for shape, sounds very
different to what I have in my mind. ha ha
I need to get a normal tip to look like the one below in Picture B for example.
So what amount of heat is needed to help me get the stainless to bend without weakening it too much. ?
I got told 200c should do it, and then another fella said get it a dull red ?
would small propane torch be enough heat to get it to work a bit easier ? I am not worried about discolouration as that can be dealt with easy enough .t
this job I need to do myself, as it is going to be a do a little bit and try, do a little bit and try etc etc.
any thoughts on this ?
The pics below show the sort of thing I need to do.
prop B is a pic of a srx with added tip cup from DAH, and Prop A is my srx with no extra cup added.
prop I will be experimenting on is a different prop but this shows what sort of tip cup I need to get on a non tip cupped propeller .
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11-20-2016, 11:39 PM #25000 RPM
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The old race boys used a trailer ball on a 2" pipe stand filled with sand. They used the trailer ball from the pull truck at the races to "fix" issues - cold.
Not saying it's a good idea. but ...
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11-21-2016, 07:23 AM #3
I have seen brass(bronze) props beaten on a trailer ball but never SS. If thats the case that could open a whole new world! Gary
"12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
"77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
"72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)
"Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau
"This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking
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11-21-2016, 11:37 AM #4
Take a look @ this > http://www.pitchblock.com/pitch-blocks.html
Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"
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olboatman liked this post
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11-21-2016, 12:01 PM #5
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NICE PAIR liked this post
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11-21-2016, 09:26 PM #6
Buying a pitch block is way too expensive for just home use. Run quiet have nice stuff but the use far too many digits in their price menu.
I don't need a mandrel, I can make that easy enough and strong. I need to be sure I can just bash the stainless cold and not harm it.
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11-22-2016, 07:26 AM #7"12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
"77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
"72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)
"Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau
"This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking
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David - WI thanked for this post
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11-22-2016, 10:05 AM #8
Cheers Gary you have just answered the question I was looking for , 1700deg f is the heat needed to use for stainless, I presume thats what you meant.
1700F is a bit different to 200deg C that I got told.. i didn't think 200C would be enough to make much difference .
I make 170-F around 920 deg C... thats a bit warm ha ha . (have to remember not to touch it)...
will try on a bit of scrap stainless to see if my little torch can get it up to that temp.
I will just weld up a mandrel and give it a go with the propane if I can get the heat in the tips. if it works, then brilliant, if it dont then its another on my ever growing list of fails.
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11-22-2016, 04:43 PM #9
I've done a ton of them. Mostly aluminum but some stainless and brass.
The stainless I've done, were thin enough I didn't need heat.
My pitch blocks were pressure treated 2x4's and 4x4's. Many dock posts happen to be 4x4's as well
I like to experiment and I've had many, ugly, beat on props be as fast as my fastest.
No one will buy them, but they ran
And just to qualify this method, I used to race kneel down outboard and one of our good prop guys used to take a wooden chair to the races and one of it's vertical back supports just happened to end in a perfect radius.
That was his pitch block.
Pitted beside him once during testing and saw a guy bring him a prop telling him its issues. He looked at it, put it on his pitch block and tapped on it a minute or two and handed it back.
The guy came back and hr later telling him how well it ran!
Beating on cheap props is big fun in m world.I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.
I refuse to allow common sense to interfere w/my boat buying decisions.
Checkmate 16' 140 Johnson
Hydrostream 17' Vector FrankenRude I
Laser 480 (?) 21' w/GT 200
Glastron Carlson Conquest w/XP 2.6
Glastron Carlson CVX 20 w/XP 2.6
24' Sonic w/twin 250 Johnsons
24' Sonic w/twin 250 HO Johnsons
19' STV River Rocket w/FrankenRude II
Allison XR 2002 w/Frankenrude II
Hydrostream 18' V-King w/Frankenrude II
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11-23-2016, 08:15 AM #10
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11-23-2016, 08:23 AM #11"12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
"77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
"72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)
"Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau
"This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking
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Slimm liked this post
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11-23-2016, 09:53 AM #12Scream And Fly VIP
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I use to get a big piece of brass and grind the cup profile I wanted into it and mount it in a very large vise. I would then lay the prop over the brass and use a lead hammer to add the cup. Doing it this way does not mark the propeller as much.
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Mr. Demeanor, Magcat 62 liked this post
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11-23-2016, 02:07 PM #137000 RPM
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go to a welding shop and get a temp stick for the temp your going to use.
land and sea had a guage for cupped prop several years ago. they may not be accurate to the n th degree but can give you a consistent measure.
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11-23-2016, 02:59 PM #14
Downloadable template for pitch measuring: http://www.propellerhub.com/simple-pitch-measuring
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11-23-2016, 06:41 PM #15
Thanks guys, this all sounds like real good advice.
I do plan on making a device to get the cup all the same on all 3 blade tips, I will get all of them the same so not too worried about the actual pitch on the tips..
one prop i have is a good prop, but something I wont use much at all,( only 17 pitch) so that will be my test prop as in testing on the boat.
fir my first attempt at getting a tip bent over i will sacrifice a alloy prop thats already crap. so that can be the prototype ( sound better than guinee pig ha ha)
i already have that pitch measuring app, its fairly accurate on the whole. i have a few templates printed out.
used it last year to identify a tohatsu prop with no markings, turned out we got it within 1/4 inch of its true pitch !!!
.
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