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  1. #1
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    Adding cup to a stainless prop AT HOME !!!

    I need to add cup to the tips of a stainless prop AT HOME , no sending out to prop shops, this has to be done at home or by the river !!
    the prop is only going to be experimental so if it goes tits up then so be it. I need to be able to bend the tips and possibly a bit of the trailing edge to
    get what I am after.
    I need lots of extra tip cup and possibly a slight bit more cup to trailing edge. The tips I want to make like a large kitchen spoon for shape, sounds very
    different to what I have in my mind. ha ha
    I need to get a normal tip to look like the one below in Picture B for example.

    So what amount of heat is needed to help me get the stainless to bend without weakening it too much. ?
    I got told 200c should do it, and then another fella said get it a dull red ?

    would small propane torch be enough heat to get it to work a bit easier ? I am not worried about discolouration as that can be dealt with easy enough .t
    this job I need to do myself, as it is going to be a do a little bit and try, do a little bit and try etc etc.

    any thoughts on this ?

    The pics below show the sort of thing I need to do.
    prop B is a pic of a srx with added tip cup from DAH, and Prop A is my srx with no extra cup added.
    prop I will be experimenting on is a different prop but this shows what sort of tip cup I need to get on a non tip cupped propeller .
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	SRX NEED CUP.jpg 
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ID:	360959   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	dah srx bowlift 2.jpg 
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ID:	360960  

  2. #2
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    The old race boys used a trailer ball on a 2" pipe stand filled with sand. They used the trailer ball from the pull truck at the races to "fix" issues - cold.

    Not saying it's a good idea. but ...

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  4. #3
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    I have seen brass(bronze) props beaten on a trailer ball but never SS. If thats the case that could open a whole new world! Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp (in progress)
    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    I need to add cup to the tips of a stainless prop AT HOME , no sending out to prop shops, this has to be done at home or by the river !!
    the prop is only going to be experimental so if it goes tits up then so be it. I need to be able to bend the tips and possibly a bit of the trailing edge to
    get what I am after.
    I need lots of extra tip cup and possibly a slight bit more cup to trailing edge. The tips I want to make like a large kitchen spoon for shape, sounds very
    different to what I have in my mind. ha ha
    I need to get a normal tip to look like the one below in Picture B for example.

    So what amount of heat is needed to help me get the stainless to bend without weakening it too much. ?
    I got told 200c should do it, and then another fella said get it a dull red ?

    would small propane torch be enough heat to get it to work a bit easier ? I am not worried about discolouration as that can be dealt with easy enough .t
    this job I need to do myself, as it is going to be a do a little bit and try, do a little bit and try etc etc.

    any thoughts on this ?

    The pics below show the sort of thing I need to do.
    prop B is a pic of a srx with added tip cup from DAH, and Prop A is my srx with no extra cup added.
    prop I will be experimenting on is a different prop but this shows what sort of tip cup I need to get on a non tip cupped propeller .
    Take a look @ this > http://www.pitchblock.com/pitch-blocks.html
    Wriggleys gum makes me think of boating, "Double your engines, Double your fun"

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  7. #5
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  9. #6
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    Buying a pitch block is way too expensive for just home use. Run quiet have nice stuff but the use far too many digits in their price menu.
    I don't need a mandrel, I can make that easy enough and strong. I need to be sure I can just bash the stainless cold and not harm it.

  10. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    Buying a pitch block is way too expensive for just home use. Run quiet have nice stuff but the use far too many digits in their price menu.
    I don't need a mandrel, I can make that easy enough and strong. I need to be sure I can just bash the stainless cold and not harm it.
    I agree about the pitch block but why cant you heat the tips to 1700 deg F as seen on the other site? Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp (in progress)
    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

  11. Thanks David - WI thanked for this post
  12. #8
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    Cheers Gary you have just answered the question I was looking for , 1700deg f is the heat needed to use for stainless, I presume thats what you meant.

    1700F is a bit different to 200deg C that I got told.. i didn't think 200C would be enough to make much difference .
    I make 170-F around 920 deg C... thats a bit warm ha ha . (have to remember not to touch it)...
    will try on a bit of scrap stainless to see if my little torch can get it up to that temp.
    I will just weld up a mandrel and give it a go with the propane if I can get the heat in the tips. if it works, then brilliant, if it dont then its another on my ever growing list of fails.

  13. #9
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    I've done a ton of them. Mostly aluminum but some stainless and brass.

    The stainless I've done, were thin enough I didn't need heat.

    My pitch blocks were pressure treated 2x4's and 4x4's. Many dock posts happen to be 4x4's as well
    I like to experiment and I've had many, ugly, beat on props be as fast as my fastest.
    No one will buy them, but they ran

    And just to qualify this method, I used to race kneel down outboard and one of our good prop guys used to take a wooden chair to the races and one of it's vertical back supports just happened to end in a perfect radius.
    That was his pitch block.
    Pitted beside him once during testing and saw a guy bring him a prop telling him its issues. He looked at it, put it on his pitch block and tapped on it a minute or two and handed it back.
    The guy came back and hr later telling him how well it ran!

    Beating on cheap props is big fun in m world.
    I'd rather be competitive w/junk I built in my garage than win w/stuff I bought.


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  15. #10
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    The rundquist site says "Heat the propeller first, never going above 1700 degrees F." I think what they are saying is stay in the 13-1500 area to be safe maybe?


    Slimm



    Quote Originally Posted by phillnjack View Post
    Cheers Gary you have just answered the question I was looking for , 1700deg f is the heat needed to use for stainless, I presume thats what you meant.

    1700F is a bit different to 200deg C that I got told.. i didn't think 200C would be enough to make much difference .
    I make 170-F around 920 deg C... thats a bit warm ha ha . (have to remember not to touch it)...
    will try on a bit of scrap stainless to see if my little torch can get it up to that temp.
    I will just weld up a mandrel and give it a go with the propane if I can get the heat in the tips. if it works, then brilliant, if it dont then its another on my ever growing list of fails.
    Hire the handicapped, we're fun to watch

  16. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlimmDaddy View Post
    The rundquist site says "Heat the propeller first, never going above 1700 degrees F." I think what they are saying is stay in the 13-1500 area to be safe maybe?


    Slimm
    Good point Scott ! Ya wouldn't want to weaken it. Gary
    "12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
    "77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp (in progress)
    "Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau

    "This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking

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  18. #12
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    I use to get a big piece of brass and grind the cup profile I wanted into it and mount it in a very large vise. I would then lay the prop over the brass and use a lead hammer to add the cup. Doing it this way does not mark the propeller as much.

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  20. #13
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    go to a welding shop and get a temp stick for the temp your going to use.


    land and sea had a guage for cupped prop several years ago. they may not be accurate to the n th degree but can give you a consistent measure.

  21. #14
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    Downloadable template for pitch measuring: http://www.propellerhub.com/simple-pitch-measuring

  22. #15
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    Thanks guys, this all sounds like real good advice.

    I do plan on making a device to get the cup all the same on all 3 blade tips, I will get all of them the same so not too worried about the actual pitch on the tips..

    one prop i have is a good prop, but something I wont use much at all,( only 17 pitch) so that will be my test prop as in testing on the boat.
    fir my first attempt at getting a tip bent over i will sacrifice a alloy prop thats already crap. so that can be the prototype ( sound better than guinee pig ha ha)


    i already have that pitch measuring app, its fairly accurate on the whole. i have a few templates printed out.
    used it last year to identify a tohatsu prop with no markings, turned out we got it within 1/4 inch of its true pitch !!!

    .

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