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  1. #1
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    Question Older Deep Vee hull - motor height?

    This is not a family boat. It's for two guys to go out and run around, sometimes quicker than the wimmen would like

    My first and foremost question is: With a Glastron/Tahiti/Sidewinder/Kona (et all) 1970's Vee Bottom at 16~17 ft - what's the basic starting place for the AV-Cav Plate relative to the bottom/keel line?

    We'll be running OMC 140 V-4 through hub exhaust, stock gear case, and prolly good used Michigan Wheel SS cupped 3-blades to start with ('cuz I have some).

    Should I calc the lowest transom bolt position to be AV/Cav Plate + 1" above keel line? Or should I start higher?

    If all the various motor position offered in the stock stern bracket do no get it, we'll add a jack plate. But rather start by using the factory hole options ...

  2. #2
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    See my "Kona" post for pics of my hull which is basically the same as yours. My cav plate started parallel to the bottom, then after testing I moved it up 1.5 above the bottom. If I knew then what I know now and had the budget, I would have installed a jack plate. I am as far up as I can go without drilling more holes.

  3. #3
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    Understood. I'll be starting with a refurb'd transom, so my hole pattern can be anything

    A jack plate (unless used...) would be more then the cost of the boat, trailer and motor at this point. Not saying it's not goinna happen. Just more likely to start with a direct mount ...

    Let me know how that 1 1/2" works out... I'm keeping an eye out on your posts. You got a great boat there. A real keeper and if it's fast, so much the better
    Last edited by brocluno; 11-09-2016 at 01:55 PM.

  4. #4
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    slough, england, united kingdom
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    you want the cav plate about 5 inches above the bottom of the v.. so make yourself a jackplate to be around that height.

    a few bits of angled iron would be easy enough to knock one up then try the boat. if its what you like then keep eyes out for a good used one.
    if you find its too scary for you then just bolt on as per normal to the transom and enjoy it..

    with new transom set the motor on the transom and measure to make sure its in the middle, then with the bracket about 1/8th inch above the top of the transom mark the top holes and drill right through. place bolts in and then drill the bottom ones remembering to drill them at highest setting too.

    always put the motor holes in the right place, then if you ever change motor its simple to just bolt another one on.
    and make sure you use a quality sealant on the bolts or the transom will soon rot out again due to water ingress.

    that type of hull is quick on the flat stuff, but crap in the rough. so a nice cheap hydraulic jackplate would be perfect .

  5. #5
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    The hull you are talking about will act better with a 4 Blade SS Prop. I have a 16 ft 1971 Schuster Tahiti that is a 2 person boat for all intent purposes.....She thinks it is for fishing and after a few quick laps around the pond.

    I can hit the throttle and be on plane in a matter of seconds and in smooth waters it flies super flat. In the chop just give it a little more and it flies right over the tops of the waves smooth as before.

    I started with a 19P 3 blade and the boat drove like an old school bus, went to a 20 P MI Wheel 4 Blade SS prop and what a difference. Now running a 22 P MI Wheel 4 Blade and again better handling. Still have a 23 P 4 blade MI Wheel Ballistic prop for next year.

    That is running a Mercury 150 HP Optimax hung on the second hole from the top as I recall...Still haven't install the 4 inch jack plate yet.

    With the Deep Vee Hull you need lift on the back end and that is what a 4 Blade will do for you.

    Karsten

  6. #6
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    If I remember your pictures, you have your tank in the rear, is your battery back as far as possible also? I am making my fuel tank and battery permanent in the rear of the boat.
    I have a three blade cleaver that I am going to try before purchasing props.
    Glad to hear you are making progress, any speed numbers yet?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramonepb View Post
    If I remember your pictures, you have your tank in the rear, is your battery back as far as possible also? I am making my fuel tank and battery permanent in the rear of the boat.
    I have a three blade cleaver that I am going to try before purchasing props.
    Glad to hear you are making progress, any speed numbers yet?
    Yes the Battery and now 3 gallon oil tank are mounted to the rear...one on either side of the tank.



    last year I got up to 47 MPH once with the GF and another time with a buddy that checked the speedo against the GPS on his phone and the speedo is right on. This year still running the 22 P MI Wheels and after dropping the GF off to go get the truck I was forced to do a couple laps around the pond...Smooth as glass where I easily ran up to 50 MPH and still had plenty of throttle to go....Just not enough water.

    Karsten

  8. #8
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    Are you exchanging props on a trial basis? All those props sounds expensive. I know trying different props is in my future!

  9. #9
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    MI Wheel are actually rather affordable SS Props....I bought the 20P 4 Blade used and paid a new price for it not knowing better......Later I search MI Wheel props and checked Ebay. now and then. I picked up the 22P 4 blade there as a dealer take off demo'ed once for $150.00 and the Ballistic I bought new with torque hub, washer and nut for around 325.00 shipped.

    Karsten

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karsten View Post
    MI Wheel are actually rather affordable SS Props....I bought the 20P 4 Blade used and paid a new price for it not knowing better......Later I search MI Wheel props and checked Ebay. now and then. I picked up the 22P 4 blade there as a dealer take off demo'ed once for $150.00 and the Ballistic I bought new with torque hub, washer and nut for around 325.00 shipped.

    Karsten

    Not bad! I will start searching. I can't find any numbers on the three blade aluminum that came on the motor, so I don't know where I am starting at. The three blade cleaver I have actually came off of a sport e tunnel hull. I think it will be small but will give me a starting point and should have lift.

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