User Tag List

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 73

Thread: Transom repair

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Winchester ky
    Posts
    68
    Thanks (Given)
    3
    Thanks (Received)
    1
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    20
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks thanks for the reply. Very useful info I did not know about. Now that the weather has turned cold, I plan to remove the seat and get at the floor and get it ready to repair first. Although I question the transom because I don't know what is under the diamond plate, I can stand on the the cavitation plate of the motor and apply up and down pressure and it is solid. Someone in the past reinforced the transom with inner plywood and a 2x4 cross brace and knees, but it was only painted and the tabbing did not bond. The floor is solid but moves as if it is not fastened properly. Therefore I thought that would be where to start.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    116
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    4
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    16
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Cool

    You have identified some key areas of concern. Fix them all while you are at it.

    I see some other issues. Looks like the PO wanted a fairly quick solution to a spongy transom ... The strongback and the diamond plate were what he could get easily. Obviously not a boat carpenter as no effort to shape it to the hull or properly fasten it ... So you get to do this over again

    If you can get the strongback out and the inner ply, you will likely find a mess. Not to worry. It's not that big a job to do this better. To re-core a transom correctly, you need to have access to the full core, full width. That means the deck has to come off. BUT, if you are doing repairs AND can find the deterioration localized to the area of the old motor holes, you can move forward w/o the deck lift

    So the floor should tab into the transom all the way across. It creates a diaphragm so the thrust of the lower motor bracket is put into the transom, the floor diaphragm, the stringer, and the transom as a bulkhead. That bulkhead is supposed to take lateral forces from turning and disperse them into the hull. AND it is supposed to give the upper motor bracket area something to pull backwards against (as the lower unit tries to push itself under the boat).

    So most transom failures are the top breaking away backwards. The deck and motor-well are supposed to be the upper diaphragm that prevents this. But they are usually poorly attached, they have been hacked on, they are missing trim (that ties the top edge down/together), etc. And, if the transom core is punky, they have no fastener strength. So they break, or the top edge fasteners let go and the transom breaks backwards...

    What to do? Plan a strategy based on what you find.

    You can pull the top trim and drill 3/8" holes down into the core as deep as you can buy a drill bit. You can rig a IV bag/funnel with CPES down a vinyl tube into these holes (one at a time) and soak the core with CPES. This will work if it's slightly damp, not wet. This will add compression bulk in the core. It will not rebuild the core in any meaningful way. But it will stop bolts from crushing the old soft transom core.

    You can then take a router and remove 1/2 the transom thickness from the inside, out to solid core say 6" either side of the motor bolt area. You can do this in steps and use two sheets of plywood with glass roving and epoxy to "rebuild" this area.

    I make a "dam" around a layup with a patch board like this. I staple down the glass. I run a bead of PL3X around the perimeter so that the resin can't "get away" and flood the cloth or roving with epoxy. Slap that thing in place and drive self drilling, self tapping screws into each corner and some up each side and across the bottom.

    The excess will ooze out the top. Slowly draw it in tight. Clean up the excess. Best to tape down some plastic along the bottom so the excess pools. Easy cleanup. You can do the second wider layer right on top. They are catalytic cured, they don't need air. The PL3X is moisture cured and the residual humidity in the old core will kick it off.

    Now you have a large fresh face on the inside of the transom and it is bonded to the good remnants of the core. The bad remnants are soaked with cured CPES. It's almost tough enough to use.

    Now fit a properly shaped piece of 3/16" aluminum plate on the back. Shape it pleasantly to the hull and bottom contours. You can use a table saw or a skill saw and carbide blade. Make sure any old bolt holes are over drilled and filled with chopped glass/epoxy mix and ground flat to the surface. No voids allowed.

    Drill the stern plate 6" on center around the perimeter and down the centerline, countersink. Use SS oval head self drilling/self tapping screws long enough to go 90% of the way through the core. Bed the plate with a full coat of 3M 5200 and install. Fasten a few central screws first and work outward. The excess 5200 will come out the edges. If you masking taped just outside the edge, you can trim it off the next day with a razor blade and pull it and the tape away.

    5200 is printable and it bonds at the rate of 30 PSI, so once it's cured, that plate will not come off short of being hit from behind, and it will not allow water intrusion.

    You can use a hardware store diamond plate, or the one you have on the inner face of the transom. But you have to glass the face to the boat first. Epoxy and glass is slower to cure and will sag. Polyester will kick off in minutes so it's best for an open face vertical layup - but wear breathing apparatus with outside air source.

    Get two good layers of glass on the inner face. THEN put the aluminum on bedded in 5200 and fastened like the outer face. Now when you cinch up the motor or jack plate bolts they will will be acting on many square feet of wood, glass, and aluminum. It will be nearly impossible for the motor to break that sandwich away.

    Some variation on this theme will net you a very strong transom w/o splitting the deck away and lifting it off. On old transoms, you want to spread the loads as widely as possible. You want to transfer the loads to the hull "skin" and the diaphragms where possible. So when you soaked the old core with CPES, you "rebonded" the core to the outer hull lay-up. When you glassed the inner face you created a second bulkhead "skin" the aluminum spreads the loads. the screws take the forces from the aluminum and put them into the core nearly all the way to other face. This is a strong solution.
    Last edited by brocluno; 11-17-2016 at 09:40 PM.

  3. Likes Slimm liked this post
  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Winchester ky
    Posts
    68
    Thanks (Given)
    3
    Thanks (Received)
    1
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    20
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks. This is making real since and I understand. This really helps, especially because the deck is glassed to the hull therefore I don't want to break that bond. I was thinking along the lines of cutting a section out of the splash well and after the transom done figure out how to reinstall the splash well better and stronger than original.
    also thinking of a small jack plate to distribute the load better and to be able to move the motor without drilling ,ore holes into the transom.
    what are your thoughts on the jack plate and splash well?
    The repairs you are describing makes me think more horsepower can be safely used. Is this the case even though I don't intend on changing from my 115 Johnny?

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    116
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    4
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    16
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The splash well or motor-well is part of the deck diaphragm. It's a continuous horizontal plane that ties the top of the hull sides to the top of the transom. In your case it's bonded, not just locked with a piece of "U" shaped aluminum trim (see picture for common failure). So I would not break that bond. I'd look at it real carefully to see if it's stress cracked... If it is, you'll need to address that.

    If you are going to add a Jack Plate, you'll need more upper strength than I describe above. You'll have additional leverage trying to pull the top back and down. So I would add a piece of say 3/8 aluminum plate to the inner face of the top of the transom in the motor well. I'd fit it all the way across and full depth with a cut-out for the well drain. Bed in 5200 and edge fasten.

    OBTW - see if you can knock out the well drain tube and address the core in that area with CPES before you re-insert. They are notorious for water intrusion ... If you can't knock it out, drill either side from the top and saturate the core with CPES using gravity. You need full compression strength for bolt draw.

    From this inner plate I would run two stainless steel braces forward to the new sole (floor) and into the stringer. You can get a marine railing shop to help with this. The tubes need to be built so the upper motor bolt-heads go through either properly flattened tube, or a bolt flange welded on. They should pass through two well drilled openings in the motor-well and down to a bolt plate on top of the sole/stringer. Fasten that plate down with at least four SS #12 screws into the stringer to 80% depth. The tubes form a Vee from either motor/jack-plate upper bolt to a common point forward and below. I'd use 1" SS tubing around 0.125" wall ...

    The Marine Rail Shop can make this up pretty easily and polish it so it looks real good. The tubes can be two-piece so that the Vee comes up and ends in a threaded section and the top come down the same. Insert a piece of all-thread bedded in 5200 into one side. After cure, grease the exposed threads and screw the sections together. That way the holes in the motor well can be a tight fit and the joint is hidden below. It'll look trick and as long as you have an inch of threads in either side, the joint is good

    With that new triangulated brace and the full-face inner bolt plate, the top is not likely to give way and can now take a fair power increase. Or the motor can go higher

    However, you have to be careful of your insurance. What did the MFG rate the transom for power? If their upper limit was 150, you have room to grow. If their upper limit was 120, not so much. But 150 was common, so you may be OK.

    A common trick here is to keep the outboard lower leg and mid section with the ID plate for the motor, and install a 140 power-head

    They are out there used, you just have to look

    All up it will go nicely, and should keep you grinning while shouting and flapping your wings

    My boat bud and I are on the same trajectory - same hull, same problems mostly, with a 140 to start
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Transom Failure.jpg  
    Last edited by brocluno; 11-18-2016 at 12:41 PM.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Winchester ky
    Posts
    68
    Thanks (Given)
    3
    Thanks (Received)
    1
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    20
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Transom repair

    I really appreciate your input, it makes me think and apply to how and what will be done.
    There is no plate with a hp rating that I can find any where on or in the boat. The insurance agent couldn't find anything on this Kona even with the HIN. Another item I have to factor in is a fuel tank. There is a fuel fitting and cap on the deck in front of the driver. The tank has been removed and a portable 6 gallon was used. 6 gallons just isn't enough, this 115 sucks gas! It has been suggested to place the tank in the rear. If so I have to structure these repairs around that. I am trying to post a pic of the inside of the boat at the transom. In the pic you can see the bottom of the splash well, the 2x4 cross race, the knee, which is solid to the floor and the second transom which was put in against the original. It is painted. The tabbing to the transom from the knee has popped loose.
    Thanks
    Jerry
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg  
    Last edited by Ramonepb; 11-18-2016 at 08:21 PM.

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    116
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    4
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    16
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Cool

    OK, what I think I see is that the transom is flexing. The aluminum plate on the back can bow outward fairly easily w/o breaking away or coming loose, etc. The knee can not move. So the transom flexed back away and broke those bonds.

    But, to be sure I'm seeing things right, look at the leading face of the lower leg and see if there is any impact damage? If there is no obvious hit marks or a gouge in the aluminum or anything, then I'll stand by the above. If the motor hit something, that one impact could have done this.

    In any case, like I said, these folks were not boat carpenters ... Looks like they were trying to use a strongback to make up for the cutout for the motor well section of the plywood... But the bolt pattern tells you this was less than effective ... And they were assuming that one sheet of plywood would equal the original inner core ... But it can't. the core was at least 1" thick. This looks like 5/8 or 3/4 at best. And since the motor bolts do not go through the strongback, the plywood was free to flex in areas away from it ...

    I have no beef with strongbacks. I'll use one in our boat (aluminum angle). But this was/is not the way. The forces were too large for the tabbing and things did not meet correctly. The knee should have been integrated into the lower edge/face of the strongback. And I would not use plywood for a knee w/o encapsulating it in glass. Too easy to take on water and delaminate as you'll find when you get into the transom core.

    So you have your planning work cut out for you. I suspect the inner core of your transom is not as I hoped above. It's prolly soggy all the way across and too punky to stop the flex ... It's not terminal, it's just more work. But you won't know for sure until you go deeper ...

    You can not go fast w/o a solid transom. So you get to build one - yeah

    Once you get into the core and get some pictures, it'll be easier to work out how this will go...

    Never fear, I'm right behind you doing our boat the same way... Although it would not be nearly as hard to lift the deck on ours, I won't. I'll cut away the inner face and build it in place. No matter how you get access, the inner face always has to come off. A trim router works well to cut the inner face free. Or one of those Fein Saws, or a Harbor Freight double blade saw. They all work.

    This is the fuel tank we'll be using. The filler cap will be forward of the rear deck/motor well and it will be strapped down on 1x1 strips and saddles so it does not move when gettin it The strips are so it can get air under it in case it sweats.

    http://www.iboats.com/Moeller-LPT-12...view_id.729917

    The battery will be behind it on the port side in a battery box. We'll install the battery lengthwise so it's mostly near the centerline. It'll be just to the left (port side) of the tubing top-bolt Vee brace going down to the stringer.

    My bud is lighter than me and I assume I'll be doing most of the wheel work. He'll be doing throttle duty on the port side so we are working the balance equations. The Halon bottle will be on the starboard side behind the tank. I'm putting two nozzles in for the Halon - one port, one starboard aimed at the tank. I'm assuming you are not putting in Halon ... But you could install a strap-in plastic tool box on the starboard side of the Vee Brace behind the tank.

    OK so you have more info to work with. These OMC motors have a magneto ignition. They say CDI, but it's really a modified mag with solid state triggering. Because it's a Mag, they do not have a real alternator. They have permanent magnets so the charging system runs full output all the time - 9 amps IIRC.

    Does not sound like a lot, but if you do that for 8 hours, you cook a battery. So the recommendation is to run the radio and the running lights full time to get rid of some of the "excess" juice. We'll be running a 5 amp in-line fuel pump too. What all that means is either you have a BIG battery that can absorb the current and dissipate it as heat (ours is Group 31), or you balance the loads against charge rate and run a light battery - your choice... So factor that into your rear layout.

    We have a forward deck fitting for a built-in tank too. No tank. It was taken out long ago and I don't want the weight forward. You can't go fast running flat on the keel. But it was great when they were water skiing at 35 mph

    We have a small drain well aft under the motor well that you do not have (as I see the picture). We have the traditional Glastron angled aft corners on the hull. You have a flat transom - much easier. So there are differences.

    So I have a punky core. And I'm going to attack it from the inner face too. In this area I'm ahead of you. We've already cut out the floor. and I've probed all 8 or 10 bolt holes in the transom for core and they are all punky.

    I'll cut the inner transom glass skin about 1" from the edges. Pull it loose and pull out all the crappy core. Then I'll start machining lumber to replace it. I'll try to use the widest plank I can fit up into the stern-top, shaped to fit around the motor well if need be.

    I'll I'll make it up of two layers of HDO with a 2" lower bonding step into a "plank". I'll mix up thickened epoxy, slather it on the top and back and we'll force that plank up and into place. I'll temporarily fasten it in place from the transom outer face behind where the aluminum plate will go. I suspect I can get a 6" wide plank up there, maybe 8"...

    Once that is cured, I'll add HDO to the transom lower section bonded all across and below the the upper plank - say 3/4 HDO as described earlier. The next one will cover the step seem between the first sheet and the upper plank extension and bond all three together, and build out the core to full thickness.

    These cores were often 1 1/2" thick so two layers of 3/4 will do it. Some were only 1" thick, so that would be 2 layers of 1/2" ... Point being in about three pieces it can be replaced.

    And, the original core was just plywood. The new one will be HDO and I'll incorporate roving and epoxy in the layers all the way so it will be Original Glass transom face -> Roving and epoxy -> HDO -> Roving and epoxy -> HDO -> roving and polyester inner face. That is a stronger schedule.

    The HDO machining is a bit time consuming. The bonding is quick, but it needs curing time. But once you are in there, you can build that out in three days at about 3 hours a day or so if you plan ahead. The nasty bit is the polyester inner face. It should "tab" out onto the existing hull by at least 4" ...

    THEN the new floor goes in From there it's as described above earlier. I know this is a lot to take in, but me putting it down in print helps me organize it and think out how we've done it in the past. Make check lists and work methodically, and none of this:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Should do it the other way round.jpg 
Views:	27 
Size:	29.6 KB 
ID:	360808
    Last edited by brocluno; 11-18-2016 at 10:41 PM.

  8. Likes Slimm liked this post
  9. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Winchester ky
    Posts
    68
    Thanks (Given)
    3
    Thanks (Received)
    1
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    20
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I do have a drain well in the center below the splash well. When I first put it in the water, the brass drain tube leaked. I replaced it with a gabbard type and 5200. No leak!
    Also when I got the boat it had a LONG shaft Mariner that was so low he lifted the trailer by flipping the drop axle under the trailer. So a hit could be possible but I don't know, but makes sense. I have the trailer back to original height and with the motor mounted in the bottom holes, optimum height, the skeg on the 115 clears by an inch or so. Power trim helps and I put a second switch on the steering wheel.
    I put the big Interstate Marine battery in. Lights and bilge pump are hooked up but not the radio.
    It is getting cold here, will epoxy cure in cold?
    My thoughts are if I cut out the splash well I can get to all of the transom. Good idea?
    How about some pics of your project?
    Thanks
    Jerry

  10. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    116
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    4
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    16
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Our project is all tarped down and drying out. It's raining here and blowing 30+. The boat is not in my yard, so pics are not easy to get. But next work day, I'll grab a few...

    I think I may have jumped the gun on your transom condition... Before you condemn the whole core, pull out the corner bolts in the aluminum plate (one at a time if it's going to stay...) and probe the core with an ice pick... If you hit solid wood there, it may be best to go back to Plan A. Do more testing before you go in deep.

    OK, on the motor well. You can remove it. But you'll have cosmetic work to do (fairing and re-paint). So think hard on this... You can go at it by cutting a line someplace you can work more easily like 1" out on the uppermost flat deck area. But when you put it back in, you'll have to taper grind the glass out at least 2~3" both ways to be able to build a proper taped lay-up. Then fair it all and re-paint to to look good.

    It can be done, but it depends on the boat finish. If it's a repaint now over the old gel-coat and you can match the color - sure, it's one way to approach the job. If it's the original metal-flake gel coat, you will never get it right ...

    OK, we both have a drain well - interesting... I'll bet your hull is a "splash" of a Sidewinder. Mine is a splash of the original Glastron/Tahiti with the angle transom corners. I have a smaller core. Only about 2/3 of the total transom width. Yours must go all across. Read all the way through this thread to get an idea of what you're working with: http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...ghlight=tahiti

    Since you know the drain tube was leaking, you have to assume that the bottom of the core is wet. If it's getting cold there, you won't be boating for a while. I'd pull that tube out (again) and probe the wood. If it's solid, that would be good.

    You can force-dry the core by hooking a vacuum pump to one side of the lower motor bolt holes or the lower drain tube hole, and taping/stoppering off all other openings but a small one up top. Usually there is enough leakage from old screw holes that you don't even need a dedicated supply for replacement air. The vacuum pump must pull through a catch bottle as you can't let actual water go through a V-Pump. Run it for 48 hours and your core should be pretty dry. A big pickle jar with a couple of tubes soldered/epoxied into the lid will make a catch bottle ...

    CPES is the most forgiving epoxy I know. It'll set reliably down to about 55*F. Below that it may not cure. Below 70*F it'll be slower. So what might have taken 8 hours, will take all day and maybe over night. Almost all these transom jobs are done in Spring/Summer/Fall, or in a garage or a shop. You need at least some temp control to work with resins.

    That's why I suggest doing all your testing/probing now so you can work up the plan and get the materials ready for a few warm days. Each time you get a warm day, do something to make progress that involves resins. Other days are for wood work, metal work, etc.

    Your boat will be a real nice runner once it's done. It just takes time. Work time and curing time. That's what boats do, they make you wait. But, when it's all good and you get to go - it's worth it. Big smiles and grins when you get to runnin all trimmed out
    Last edited by brocluno; 11-19-2016 at 12:27 PM.

  11. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    116
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    4
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    16
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Talking

    Jerry,

    This is what your boat looks like at speed:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Tahiti OB racing 2.jpg 
Views:	18 
Size:	113.6 KB 
ID:	360859

    You can imagine the stresses that transom will take as you cross wakes, waves, currents, and just holding the motor going down the road ...

    So getting it to where it needs to be is important. Not as important as the kids, or the grandkids, etc. But important

  12. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Winchester ky
    Posts
    68
    Thanks (Given)
    3
    Thanks (Received)
    1
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    20
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Wow! Yep that is my hull. Wonder what power is behind it?
    Yesterday 75 degrees, today woke up to 40 degrees, at night in the 30 s and starting to go lower.
    we are in a drought and a burn ban. Just west of the wildfires in eastern Ky. 40 miles away and we can really smell the smoke.
    Now after reading that last post, that sucked together a 20 gallon poly waste tank. I am going to probe from inside of the gabbard and figure out how to hook up the wet vac. But I don't know if it will catch the water to measure.
    I also noticed something else this morning, the splash well is tabbed into the transom. The deeper I get into this Kona the more I like!

  13. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    116
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    4
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    16
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I think that boat ended up with a 150 Max on it... But it did not have that much when that picture was taken ...

    Yeah, I think most folks hurry too much before starting the actual work. Probe and "feel" what's in there. Get the water out any way you can. Once it's dry and we know where solid wood is and where punk is (mine is all punk so far ... ), we can game-plan your repair.

    A lot of purists say you just have to rebuild it with new. And there is nothing wrong with that approach. But, it's very hard to build a glass lay-up that is as strong as a 1/4" aluminum plate w/o being a lot heavier. So, if the build does not have restrictions, it just needs to do what must be done...

    Plus, will likely have to sit the motor higher than the MFG was thinking as a ski boat. OEM height is fine for 30~40 MPH. But to go faster takes getting the lower unit (LU) up so you have reduced what Naval Architects call appendage drag.

    You may end up with only the bullet in the water and the bottom half of the prop doing all the work. That means a transom either highly modified, or a jack-plate, or both. Even if you had a perfect factory transom, it would not hold that for long. Modern high motor transoms are around 3" thick with layers of glass and core to help distribute the stresses.

    That's why I may just CPES my core with help from a vacuum pump and then build more on the inside and the outside. A full 1/4" aluminum plate on the back and a composite inner face, with a motor plate inside the motor well braced to the stringer and built up to the new motor mounting height means all the core needs to do is hold the boat "Skins" in place and and create a non-compressible framework for the final structure.

    I'm not going for pretty. I'll do yeoman work and I'll finish things in a tidy fashion. But the inside of the hull is going to get Bed-Liner (Al's Gray). Ours will not be a beauty queen. We are intentionally shooting for the Resto-Mod look. As stated earlier, we already have family boats with mahogany and chrome.

    I'd be careful with a shop vac. They depend on airflow to cool the motor. If your transom is pretty well sealed, there will be no air flow and the motor can burn up in 20 minutes or something... A real vacuum pump can run for days and not care. Even if you just rent one for a few days. A small one should be cheap, like $10/day or less.

    I'm not saying buy one of these, but: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Stage-1-4HP-3-5CFM-Rotary-Vane-Vacuum-Pump-HVAC-AC-Air-Tool-R410a-R134-/201693289691?hash=item2ef5db5cdb:g:yhcAAOSw8gVX9dPm It would pay for itself in one transom job

    My boat bud thinks he has a Gast unit that he uses in doing instrument set-up on water plants (he's a contractor). So maybe we'll run that one 48 hours or so and de-water the transom... But if he is unsure if he wants to do that, I'll just get a cheapy like this and run the snot out of it
    Last edited by brocluno; 11-19-2016 at 10:22 PM.

  14. #42
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Winchester ky
    Posts
    68
    Thanks (Given)
    3
    Thanks (Received)
    1
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    20
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Found this online and my local store has one in stock. Just gotta figure out how to attach this rig and I am interested in that mason jar you mentioned. I would think the best place to install it would be on the inside of the transom which is now open because of the gabbard drain I installed.
    jerry
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.png  

  15. #43
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    116
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    4
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    16
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yes, that is the idea. You can usually screw a pipe nipple into glass/wood part way. I use the old motor bolt holes and screw in a 1/4" pipe thread adapter with a hose barb on one side. Attach the vacuum hose to the barb and go to the catch bottle. Catch bottle to pump and let it run.

    However, that same pump is available on eBay for around $50 shipped ... $100 will buy some resin

    You used to be able to buy Kosher Dill Pickles in a gallon glass jar. That's about the right size. It will generally handle the kind of vacuum you can develop with this work. You can make a plywood lid that has a lip and two holes for 3/16" copper tubes. One a bit longer than the other. The one deeper into the jar is the one coming from the boat. The shallower one is to the pump. Epoxy them down through the lid. A little RTV on the lip and let it cure over night. Pump the next day. 1/4" vacuum hose is available at local auto parts house.

    The first few hours you'll get all sorts of grunge. Shut it off and let it equalize. Do it again the next day. Eventually the wood will loose most of its moisture and you can go to work. Not saying we're ready. It'll just be dry enough.

    If you have sound wood away from the drain hole and the old motor bolt holes, you can drill from the top 2/3 way down into the punky core near where you think the boundary is and hook up a funnel and tube to feed that drill hole. The tube should go 1/2 way down the drill hole and be a snug fit.

    Pour in CPES until it won't take any more by gravity. Fire the pump and it'll draw it toward the drain hole or where your fitting is. As soon as you see any CPES in the jar - shut it off. Now that area is saturated well enough.

    Keep working your way across the transom until you have reached the other boundary. Now the bottom 1/2 of the core is hard. You can go up to 1/2 transom height and drill a hole into the non-CPES'd punky wood from a face and screw in a fitting and do it again for the upper half.

    Tube and pour CPES from the left and right side (one at a time, unless you can manage two pours...) and let the pump help you draw it across. Move back and forth until you are done. You may have to drill some odd access holes to allow the pump to draw CPES into odd corners and such because the rot will not be uniform. But you'll get it

    Use fiberglass reinforced Bondo for the holes, or thickened epoxy and you are good to the next stage. Epoxy cleans up with de-natured alcohol, including CPES. It's easy on your lungs and hands. Bondo/acetone - not so much. but it sets much faster.

    Then you can build the new inner and outer faces, bed and fasten them on, etc.

    The core will not be as if it were a sheet of new plywood or HDO. It'll not have a high level of flexural resistance, especially at the old punk/solid wood interface. But it will be dense (punk is not), will not compress, and it will take fasteners. The new faces, strongback, knees and braces will do the work of stopping the flex and transmitting motor loads
    Last edited by brocluno; 11-19-2016 at 11:56 PM.

  16. #44
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    116
    Thanks (Given)
    0
    Thanks (Received)
    4
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    16
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You wanted pic of our project, the initial ones are here: http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-a-new-Hot-Rod

  17. #45
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Shreveport, La.
    Posts
    3,228
    Thanks (Given)
    4
    Thanks (Received)
    74
    Likes (Given)
    60
    Likes (Received)
    490
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Ramonepb View Post
    Attachment 359632Attachment 359633Attachment 359634Attachment 359635Attachment 359636Attachment 359637
    This is the Kona. The tag on the transom says it was made in hanged.and my whole world cWestminster California.

    Wow this takes me back, Way back to 1977 when i bought my 1972 Kona. It was the same boat as yours made by the swame people. Mine was two tone cinaman flake. It had a 100hp Evinrude and i used that untill i could afford a bigger motor. That happened in 1980 when i bought a new 175 Mariner 2.0L and things got very interesting. It wasn`t long before a nose cone was needed to prevent high speed blowout. I ended up removeing the floor replacing it with four stringers like the comp boats had. It ran well but i was still behind the Hydrostreams at the races so i sold it and got me a comp Vector. Lots of good memories of that old Kona tho.

    DB

Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Transom Repair
    By 2strk4ever in forum Fiberglass and Composites Discussion
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 04-11-2009, 12:57 PM
  2. Transom Need Repair?
    By MrPhotographer06 in forum Fiberglass and Composites Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 05-17-2008, 09:07 AM
  3. transom repair 2
    By nstaller in forum Fiberglass and Composites Discussion
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 06-13-2004, 12:38 AM
  4. transom repair
    By yamahadog in forum Fiberglass and Composites Discussion
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 08-04-2003, 09:25 PM
  5. transom repair
    By Pete in forum General Boating Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-05-2001, 08:45 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Aeromarine Research