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Thread: Top Coat Clear over Epoxy
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10-26-2016, 08:55 PM #1
Top Coat Clear over Epoxy
Wooden Surfboard build - need a good clear topcoat of something to put over epoxy resin to shine.
Thinking a good Polyurethane such as Varathane, Minwax or Rustoleum and brush/roll on then buff.
I'm finishing up after 2 months of building and have laid three coats of epoxy resin over one layer of 4oz cloth. The board will be usable, but will serve as house decor for a year or two. This is my first time working with epoxy for finish work other than model airplanes years ago.
After the 1st coat (over the cloth), lightly sanded and applied just resin as the 2nd. Ran over it with the squeegee, then lightly brushed and used a blow drier on high heat, low fan to remove bubbles. It did fine as well.
However, I lightly sanded with 220 and 320 before applying the 3rd. Applied resin again with a squeegee and finished with brush & blow drier. It turned to crap. Seemed to go on like greased lightening and I ended up with many low areas. Its hardened enough to sand and most of the areas are coming out, but it was supposed to be a final coat.
My plans are to finish the other side the same way and then block it by wet sanding and then apply a Polyurethane.
From what I've read on other sites, it does well but as always, you opinion matters.
In the last pic, you can see the distortion.
Thanks,
jr.You never know what your faith is, until your faith has been truly tested.
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10-27-2016, 01:34 PM #25000 RPM
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I've had best luck with Minwax Polyurethane over epoxy. Sticks like crazy and comes up to any gloss you want. I usually use satin, but use whatever your job requires.
Worst luck with Varathane ... One one job it came off soft with fingernail. Never cured over CPES.
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10-27-2016, 04:46 PM #35000 RPM
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Just want to say that as is it looks amazing. Keep us updated.
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10-27-2016, 05:05 PM #4Screaming And Flying!
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10-27-2016, 08:05 PM #5
I like Awlgrip two part crystal clear Urethane. Coated teak on my cuddy in 1990 and still looks like new. I think all the Polys you mention will darken (yellow) in time unless you use a water based acrylic. Gary
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10-27-2016, 08:49 PM #6
Just making sure we're on the same page....This will be going over a epoxy.
I'd like to stick with water based and did look at the Minwax Spar Urethane today at Home Depot. It has UV protection which is a plus. The board will serve as a decoration piece in the house but I still want it to be usable in case its ever sold much later.
Just want to say that as is it looks amazing. Keep us updated.
Thanks brother. Its been a fun project and the end is in sight.
You never know what your faith is, until your faith has been truly tested.
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10-28-2016, 04:00 AM #7
Did you wash off the amine blush before sanding?
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10-28-2016, 08:04 AM #8
Didn't see any blush. It came out very clear and hard.
You never know what your faith is, until your faith has been truly tested.
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10-28-2016, 05:04 PM #9Screaming And Flying!
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Last edited by FMP; 10-28-2016 at 05:47 PM.
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10-28-2016, 09:33 PM #10
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10-29-2016, 05:32 AM #11
Amine blush is not always visible.
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olboatman liked this post
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10-29-2016, 02:26 PM #125000 RPM
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+1
If it's an epoxy surface, you need to wash it thoroughly before re-coating or top-coating. Clean water and a drop or two of Dawn detergent works real well.
You can also find blushes on Polyester, but they won't be amine ...
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10-29-2016, 04:38 PM #13Screaming And Flying!
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10-29-2016, 06:06 PM #14
Well.... now I know what amine blush is. Kinda weird looking stuff and not really a yellowish tint like anticipated. It almost looked like a sheen or wax though it wasn't gooey.
Spent five hours wet sanding and just laid the second coat of Spar Urethane since it has UV protection. Probably do 6 or more coats each side and then polish.
IF I do another, will probably do most of the lamination and pay to have the top coats put on. Finish work isn't fun.You never know what your faith is, until your faith has been truly tested.
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10-30-2016, 09:24 AM #15Screaming And Flying!
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LOoks super. YOu moving to the surf?
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