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11-19-2016, 08:57 AM #16Junior Member
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Yes, there are faster ways to polish SS props than the techniques I use, but I enjoy one hour at a time polishing them. Might take many hours to get out the nicks and scratches. Props go on a 1987 Glastron Carlson CVX-16 with a 1985 115 HP Johnson. About 56 MPH GPS with the 22" Raker and 57-58 MPH GPS with the 23" SRX
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11-19-2016, 01:25 PM #17
very nice looking glastron you have there, a real credit to you.
I had a blue metallic one parked outside my home with a merc 125 on the back. It was NOT in the condition of yours by a long way, and it was not my boat,
it belonged to my ex boss but I worked on his engine for him and got it running right. about 50mph if I remember right.
Yours looks like a realy nice outfit.
do you find the raker to give more bowlift that the silver streak ( thats what it used to be before the polishing).?
I have the silver streak/srx, but not had the chance to try a raker just yet.
this was mine half way through polishing it , need to get some compound to get it up to the mirror shine like yours.
I realy did not like the silver metallic finish from the factory.
.
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11-19-2016, 08:13 PM #18Junior Member
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The SRX prop is more for sport and top speed. Being an over the hub exhaust prop, it cavitates getting up on a plane, but once it bites, it holds better than the Raker and seems to lift both the bow and stern better with its big blades. For top speed, the SRX is the ticket. For low and top speed, the Raker is the ticket, and is just about as fast as the SRX.
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11-20-2016, 03:24 AM #19Junior Member
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11-20-2016, 08:37 AM #20
What dpanky said is correct. Do NOT use a knife sharpener. The pushing face of the blade must remain straight (not beveled) right up to the leading edge. Any sharpening bevel needs to be on the back side of the blade, and needs to be gradual, not a sudden bevel at the edge like a buck knife!
'89 Hydrostream Vegas XT, '90 Merc 2.4 Bridgeport PCU EFI
My YouTube videos________My Flickr photo gallery
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1706097519
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11-20-2016, 11:34 AM #21
Are satin finished props faster than polished?
Checkmate 2002 Convincor 270 496 MAG-HO
2003 Cougar 22MTR w/300xs SOLD
90 21Skater w/300xs - sold
98 STV Euroski w/280 - sold
2006 Trailblazer SS 6.0l 395hp
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11-20-2016, 12:10 PM #22
yeah I found the srx to be not very good on the holeshot, I also think I need to get mine up another couple of inches.
also found it to lift the stern of the boat, thats not to good on my particular type of boat, I just need to bow lifting properties, so will be getting the tips cupped if possible like
those at DAH to get more grip and raise the front a touch.
I do like the srx, just need to modify it a touch to get better results on my tub.
as for sharpening blades look at this, sharpened both sides for pure racing ? all these props are sharpened both sides of the leading edge. inc the mazco srx that has a edge like the way I do it.
I think its a personal thing and what suits us all best, everyone you talk to has a different idea.
below is a few props to look at. its 1 x Winrace prop that won the euro masters, 2 hydromotive props and 1x mazco srx. all 4 props have both sides of blades sharpened.
the Winrace and the hydromotive have the longer 1/2 inch tapered sharpened edges. mazco (omc) srx has small v sharpe sharp edge.
like I say I think it depends on what you find best, I like my way so as not to nick the blades too easy. (long taper = weaker edge).
those 2 old merc 2 blades have come up nice and shiny, and so did the old omc prop and its ring.
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11-20-2016, 03:12 PM #23
The taper doesn't ned to be super long, but it should only be on the back side of the blade, not the "pushing" face of the blade, which should be entirely concave with no bumps or convex bevels, as this is entirely counter-productive from a hydrodynamic standpoint. It actually creates drag. The back side of the blade already has a convex profile, so the taper or bevel on the back side just becomes a natural part of the existing shape.
'89 Hydrostream Vegas XT, '90 Merc 2.4 Bridgeport PCU EFI
My YouTube videos________My Flickr photo gallery
http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1706097519
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11-20-2016, 04:40 PM #24Junior Member
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Yes, sand only from the back of the blade, and try to blend in the back of the prop to a fairly sharp point. I find that a lot of props do not have the sharp point next to the hub, so I try to sharpen that area too, and blend it in, as the factory only has so much time to fine tune and sand a prop. This is an area, by the hub-blade area, that often needs touch up.
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