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Thread: Plascore core material
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10-05-2016, 09:05 PM #1Member
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Plascore core material
Anyone try using a product made by plascore? It is a honeycomb core board. Wondered if this would be a good replacement for balsa core in a stream?
XXXSTREAM
87 Vegas Xt 200 Merc
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10-06-2016, 12:42 AM #2
my question is why ?? why would you want to use another core that is nothing like Balsa, and I feel is not the type of core that will stand up to the continued punishment the balsa will with out any problem . Balsa is used for a very good reason so understand that reason you get your own answer !!
Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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10-06-2016, 07:56 AM #3
I have seen a product like that get shipped to a manufacturer in Detroit Lakes, MN. 4'X8' sheets. Maybe they were using it somewhere on the deck?
1973 Viper - sold
1978 Viking - sold
1995 XB02
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10-06-2016, 08:37 AM #4James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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10-06-2016, 02:51 PM #5Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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10-06-2016, 04:35 PM #6James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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10-06-2016, 05:50 PM #7Screaming And Flying!
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So many differing opinions on core, there may never be an agreement on what is best.....I wouldn't use balsa for a row boat.....You can see the superior results of using composites for decades to come. Long after the balsa is dust.....
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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olboatman liked this post
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10-06-2016, 06:34 PM #8
Agreed, just trying to understand all the options. Cost is not the factor for a small area like the Viking. Balsa is little less than 1/2 the cost of Divinycel. I need 3 sheets of the 32"x48" to do my boat in divinycell, or almost 4 2'x4' sheets of balsa. Balsa over time will deteriorate for sure. $200 vs $100. The coosa is what is gonna hurt It's a lot more than wood for sure. But once done...it's DONE.
I thought Tunnels didn't use wood in boat building, obviously I was wrong. I've read so many posts on this subject I forget details sometimes.
JamesJames H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King
Dedicated Site for Hydrostreams >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/
My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761
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10-06-2016, 06:48 PM #9Screaming And Flying!
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If you use the divinycell use the H-80 series for the bottom. The bottom needs the higher physicals. You could make a floor with some H-60 or H-45 series to save some $. Coosa for the trans and stringers can'be beat. Bi-ply 0/45 glass is good for the hull. 0/90 glass is used primarily for stringers to provide longitudinal stiffness.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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W2F a V-King thanked for this post
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10-06-2016, 06:50 PM #10"12" Super Lite Tunnel (11') "88" 25 Yammy twin carb "BANANA SPLIT"
"77" Hydrostream Viper "87" 140 Rude heavy modded w/15" mid, Bobs nose and lwp "DANGER ZONE"
"72" Checkmate MX-13 "80" 75 Rude w/15"mid and Nitro Lu (to be restored)
"Too much is never enough" Keith Richards " Dreams become reality via hard work and perseverance" G.A.Carbonneau
"This coming from an old man that strapped two bananas together, hung a motor on it and calls it a boat" XstreamVking
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David - WI liked this post
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10-06-2016, 06:58 PM #11
[QUOTE=W2F a V-King;2898261]Just curious what your choice would be. You do this kind of work for a living, and your opinion is of value. So there is no good choice to replace balsa core with any composite?
Thank you,
James[/QUOTE
All the man made core don't come close to plain everyday balsa not only as a material but the structure of the balsa cells man has not been able to repeat or come close ! Core cell is the only choice OF all the foams on the market that has the toughness and durability to stand the continuous thumping and pounding that happens with the hull panels the moment the boat starts to move across the water!and the faster the harder the thumping ! The CORE thickness used also has a big part to play with these small boats also, some were just 3/8" now they are 1/2 "!!Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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10-06-2016, 07:06 PM #12
[QUOTE=XstreamVking;2898293]If you use the divinycell use the H-80 series for the bottom. The bottom needs the higher physicals. You could make a floor with some H-60 or H-45 series to save some $. Coosa for the trans and stringers can'be beat. Bi-ply 0/45 glass is good for the hull. 0/90 glass is used primarily for stringers to provide longitudinal stiffness.[/QUOTE
ON A HULL THAT SMALL WHY HAVE STRINGERS ??If you use a single unidirectional from keel to chine across the top of the core you don't need stringers ! so why bother?Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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10-06-2016, 07:18 PM #13
In 1996 I recored "ol grey" with foam and was given 20 gallons of boat yard polyester resin from a place going out of business. I was told it would fall apart, the foam is going to turn to dust, it's going to delam, the styrene is going to dissolve the foam, bla bla bla. To this day it will vibrate your teeth in your head running across a little wind chop and sound like you are in a tin shed during an epic hail storm. I couldn't tell you how many thousands of miles are underneath that boat.
There boats have stringers for a number of reasons, one of which is floor support, a second is for what most of us do with them now they are very highly stressed on a very limited amount of running surface and at times take a tremendous beating when getting out of shape or getting caught out by some surprise boat wakes or pusher barge rollers that all these pontoons and wakeboard boats leave across the lake. Suggesting leaving out an (very) important structural element of a boat your are unfamiliar with and or have zero experience around with some flim flam CSM and this and that lay up is not in the best interest of some peoples projects. /soapboxLast edited by Capt.Insane-o; 10-06-2016 at 07:26 PM.
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W2F a V-King liked this post
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10-06-2016, 07:24 PM #14Screaming And Flying!
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My old V-King is another one to prove that foam and composites are gonna last for a lifetime. May be the stiffest boat I have ever had....
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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10-06-2016, 07:41 PM #15
ok if you choose to use H-80 foam (WHAT THICKNESS)what would you use contoured or perforated sheet form and how would you stick it down ? what with and how ??
If you use the divinycell use the H-80 series for the bottom. The bottom needs the higher physicals. You could make a floor with some H-60 or H-45 series to save some
with foams always choose a higher density than you first think of not the lower !!
H-45 SHOULD ONLY BE USED FOR A smallish DECK NEVER ANY SURFACE THAT GETS WALKED ON !
Last edited by tunnels; 10-06-2016 at 07:47 PM.
Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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