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Thread: Kona

  1. #1
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    Cool Kona

    I am new to the sight. I recently picked up a 1973 Kona 16 footer that according to the plate was manufactured in California. This is strictly a budget build so I traded the 40hp mariner to a 1978 Johnson 115 with power trim. I have had it in the water one time and I believe it will be a fun ride. She gets pretty dry and will do the chine walk dance. Can't wait get it back on the water.
    If anyone has any advice or suggestions it would be greatly appreciated.
    thanks

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  3. #2
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    Welcome to Scream And Fly!

    I know there are quite a few Kona owners here, and I am sure they'll reply here soon. In the meantime, if you can post a photo of your boat, I would love to see it, as would others I'm sure.

    If you need help with anything just contact me anytime.

    Greg


    Facebook | YouTube | Vintage Outboard Catalogs
    Photo prints available of your boat - click here


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  5. #3
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    Was the Kona the same hull as the Sidewinder or Tahiti?

  6. #4
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    Kona`s were made by Fiberglass Unlimited in Westminster Cali. I had a 1972 17ft outboard. It was my first boat. Started out with a 1972 100hp Evinrude electric shift but just to slow so on went a bran new 1980 175 Mariner 2.0L and the race was on. Ended up running in the mid 80`s dragin a Kellar. Very pretty boat.

    DB

  7. #5
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    My buddy bought a Kona Witchcraft new in the mid 70's. We cut the transom down just a touch and hung a 150 inline shortshaft on it and it would run right around 65. it was a fun boat.
    2005 APR FORMULA 2 ROOKIE OF THE YEAR

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89LASER View Post
    Was the Kona the same hull as the Sidewinder or Tahiti?
    Some were some were not.

    DB

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  10. #7
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    Kona

    Trying to post pictures hope it works
    this is the boat as we got it home
    my three year old probably won't scream but I will bet he will fly!
    we have swapped the motor to a 1978 115 Johnson with power trim.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpeg   image.jpeg   image.jpeg   image.jpeg  

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  12. #8
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    Mounting the 115
    got rid of the dolfin, it doesn't need it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg   image.jpg  

  13. #9
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    I purchased both the clymer and seloc manuals, this is a project. The seloc has more info like the section on control boxes which I have already had to use.
    I changed the lower unit lube and it was a little darker than chocolate milk. Seloc said it could be due to sitting so long. I will run it for about a half hour or so and change again.
    Can anyone tell me how to cut holes in the lower unit to let the exhaust flow and would it be beneficial on this V4 115?
    thanks for your time and input!

  14. #10
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    Someone will have to point in person where to cut and sorry but no, It won`t improve performance on a stock engine. Sure sounds cool tho.

    DB

  15. #11
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    Kona may have been a splash of a Tahiti or Sidewinder...... Hull and transom as well as the profile of the deck look the same. I have a 1971 Schuster Tahiti Torino (the model that had the windshield) that I hung a 2011 mercury 150 HP Optimax on. I started out with a 3 Blade basic Mercury prop and was advised to go to a 4 blade to get hull lift rather than torque....I don't any more torque. Change to a 20P MI Wheel Apollo 4 Blade and the boat was a totally different boat. Flying smooth and flat and jumps to speed and so far no chine walk but I am out of water by the time I am up to 47-48 MPH....Small reservoir that feeds the local farmers.

    My next deal is a 22P 4 Blade and a 4 inch back set jack plate in the next few weeks i hope and then a 23P Performance prop next spring when we have more water.

    As for drilling exhaust dumps I would advise against it unless you are actually racing the boat.....Ticket on most water way will be in store should you get stopped. I have a Taylor 21Ft Stiletto with a 235 HP Johnson that has dumps and the PO told me not to open them up unless I was on a big patch of water.

    Karsten

  16. #12
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    Thanks for the reply! This is my first try with an outboard v bottom. The exhaust dumps and a nose cone would probably not benefit me until I get more of an education and get used to the boat. I found that about the last 2inches of skeg was bent, I wonder if that could have contributed to the chine walk. Then when I tried to straighten it, and I almost had it, it broke. Probably going to look at skeg guard or Panther reskegs.
    Thanks for the info on the props. This one is an aluminum 3 blade. The only stamp on it says 315TL.
    I was told I will have to take the prop off to get at the stamping but I haven't done that yet.
    sounds like your Torino is a lot of fun, I hope I can get mine to that point. Please keep informed of how your mods are turning out, especially the setback, that is something I would like to have.

  17. #13
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    I was afraid it wouldn't help in this application. Gotta try to find some other budget ways to improve,
    but I do understand that boats are holes in the water into which you throw money!
    but these boats are in my blood son on with the curse!

  18. #14
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    Ramon....One thing I have been told was once the boat starts to Chine Walk......that is where you shut it down....No safe way to out drive it. With these hulls without a pad that happens anywhere between 55-70MPH depending on the motor and set up.

    I am finding the right prop and the correct height of the motor will make a lot more than the bent skig.

    Karsten

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    Thanks for replying.
    this Kona has an eight inch wide pad that extends forward 6 feet but starts as a point. I guess hat is a v pad.
    so a pad versus a v will change the style of prop, is that correct?
    thanks

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