Port modifications , tools etc 2 stroke mods

[phillnjack]

Loads of you must of done some port work yourself to get improvement's on the top ends.
I know an expert on the job would be best , but this is something I would like to have a go at myself.

what did you find to best type of tools when doing this work.
is there stuff to keep away from ?
did any of you make devices to make 100% sure the chamfer angles were all dead level on each cylinder ?
I am thinking of making a contration to use as a guide to get it all the same all the way round the port, and the same on each cylinder.
( it will stop the shaky hand syndrome from ruining the job , I hope )
did you find a angled head grinder a must ? or just a small pencil grinder good enough ?

I am asking as dont want to be buying a tool that wont do the job.
this is only going to be on a oval port 3 cylinder omc, so not a great deal of room to play around with.
just need a 1mm raise on the exhausts and a clean up in the galleys.

ive seen the pencil grinder kits very cheap, would these be of any use, or total rubbish that wont do the work.

also is it best to use tungsten cutters or stones ? and what shapes etc.
some of you must of found some good ways and tips on doing this type of work.

any info would be good.

[Chaz]

Nice people to deal with , they have dozens of video's , here is a good place to start ....>

[rjdubiel]

http://www.macdizzy.com/index.htm

Very basic and could help get an idea of the process.

They like http://www.ccspecialtytool.com/ as well for tools.

[W2F a V-King]

I bought one of these>> 139.00 shipped

http://www.browntool.com/Listview/ta...rch=sioux+5977

I like carbide bits. They have an assortment of those as well.

It will require a decent an compressor. It is small enough it reaches inside the cylinders and ports quite nice. I put an inline oilier on it.

Is it heavy duty enough for professional continues use?? No, don't think so. I have a couple motors to do and it will suffice for this.

I also bought the Harbor freight straight pencil one, and again..it's not designed for professional continued use. But for what I have done so far...it works fine, also have an oilier on it too, it actually came with it.

James

[phillnjack]

I have been looking at a lot of tools that look identical to those sold by cc tools, but at about 1/4 of the price.

[W2F a V-King]

I have never used a low rpm cutting tool, but have used many die grinders, rotary grinders, etc. I have done some sbc head porting, aluminum and cast iron. For me..(JMO and my limited experience)...the faster the bit turns, the better the cut. Less chatter, etc.

But keep in mind the bits used will have an rpm limit, more so the stone bits and rotary sanding ones than carbide. One reason I like the carbide bits. Used properly, and kept clean while in use they last a very long time. Maybe not necessary, but I store my carbide bits in a jar of light oil.

When in use I keep a small cup of WD40 setting near me, and every moment or so I stop and dip the tip in it and give it a quick blip and return to cutting. JMHO..

James

[Chaz]

Maybe we were not on the same page . I thought you were looking to learn proper technique and the correct tool to use for different procedures . If you watch the video's , then everything you asked was covered .

I've never considered buying quality tools as a waste of money . Lot's of good and bad out there , sometimes cheap works out . More times than not it isn't the best move . If you are only going to do a three cylinder block and retire , then the China made carbides and cartridge rolls might suffice. That stuff from flee-bay only left me disappointed .

[W2F a V-King]

Didn't know we were on a different page??

I enjoyed the video and website, very informative. And did thank your post.

Guess I misread his OP. Thought he was only going to do the 3 cyl OMC. My Bad...

I do agree, no substitute for a quality tool, more so even on a professional level. I can appreciate that, and was a master certified tech ASE and Ford, for almost 40 years..have more invested in tools than I care to mention. Most of them Snap-ON.

Retired now.

Sorry if I was OT.

James

[Chaz]

Jame's ,
First I gotta say , love the avatar . Reminds me of someone I knew as a kid ...

Both of my responses were to phillinjack .

what did you find to best type of tools when doing this work.

Quality

is there stuff to keep away from ?

Cheap junk

did any of you make devices to make 100% sure the chamfer angles were all dead level on each cylinder ?
I am thinking of making a contration to use as a guide to get it all the same all the way round the port, and the same on each cylinder.
( it will stop the shaky hand syndrome from ruining the job , I hope )
did you find a angled head grinder a must ? or just a small pencil grinder good enough ?

Watch video's

this is only going to be on a oval port 3 cylinder omc, so not a great deal of room to play around with.
just need a 1mm raise on the exhausts and a clean up in the galleys.

I somewhat took that to mean that it is a small 3 cyl motor with very little elbow room .

And that he didn't want to go in the pocket too deep because he was only doing a minimal amount of work .
I pretty much blew thru that stage of , I am not going to make a career out of this stuff about 40+ years ago myself ... LOL
We are in good company ...

[phillnjack]

I do understand that if using a die grinder tool for lots of work or for your job , then you need good quality stuff that will last.
ive got plenty of quality tools that I have used to make a living with, they have paid for themselves over and over again.
But I am only going to be grinding on one particular 3 cylinder engine ( plus a practise on a set of bad sleeves) . so i will be looking more for the
middle of the road stuff. that will be ample good enough for the one port job.

my main concern was what is the best type of tool for the job and what type just wont work any good, like is it best to get a simple straight
micro pencil type, or a angled micro pencil type or one of the larger ones etc..

I think I am going to need something real skinny to get behind the sleeves and smooth out the glue lines and globs of casting left in there.
its a real mess behind the sleeves on these blocks.

[W2F a V-King]

Not sure how the OMC sleeves are installed. Maybe research how to remove them, do the porting, block and sleeve, then reinstall... Touch up what needs to be when done.

Without seeing what your looking at, I imagine porting behind the sleeve very difficult.

James

[pointer]

Interference fit I believe, heat block and pull sleeve out.
Then you can get better access, and more choice of tools!

pointer

[phillnjack]

Pulling the sleeves would be a real good benefit if it can be done easy enough.
then all the rough and snotty area's could be realy cleaned up , polished and a better job done all round.

Pulling the sleeves is something I would like to do if at all possible at home !! not got any machine shop near me that does this without wanting to
completely empty a wallet in the process.

the block on these motors is from the lost foam molds, and the area behind all the ports is absolutely terrible, they used thin blocks of foam stuck together to
mold these and the glue lines/joins from the stuck together foam is real bad.

for example this inlet in the first pic below is actually one of the better one's of all of them.
now that's not exactly going to get the best transition of fuel to the cylinder. when putting a borescope in to see behind the sleeves it realy is a mess, its
like the unseen back of a brick wall without being cleaned up after a bad bricklayer has splodged it everywhere.
some of these globs are way over 1/4 inch thick and a few bits almost half inch. a slight seam is one thing, but these are real bad.
and I would like to polish up the area a fair amount.
in the second pic you can see the imprint of the foam they used for the mold, polished up this would surely be much better ?
.

[W2F a V-King]

I have never done it to an outboard, but have read about many who have, and maybe one of them will read this and chime in.

It is able to done in your oven...given spouses approval..good luck with that..

I did it to a 4 cylinder set of jugs from an old Kawasaki Z1 back in the mid 70's. Easy enough. (Wasn't married at the time..No spousal approval necessary!!) And no ports to line up when reinstalling them..4 stroke.

Maybe explore that route??

James

[baja200merk]

One of these are the best way to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ToC5RNh-10