2008 Evinrude 225 ETEC overheating

**fastcat1** · 09-28-2016, 09:07 AM

The boat is a 23 hydra-sport center console. Started having the problem last month. Replaced a bunch of parts and still have the problem.

1) Checked the temp using an IR gun with the motor running on a hose. Both sides looked the same.
2) Did a compression test. All cylinders were from 118 to 120 psi.

At this point I do not think it is an engine problem like a blown head gasket or bad head.

1) Installed clear hoses on the bypass valve, output side, and checked function. Bypass valve open between 1800 to 2000 rpm.
2) During water testing the clear tubing show no aerated water flowing through the clear tubes.

We still had temp fault above 2000 rpm. This time we had both Port and Starboard faults.

Used the clear hose and bypassed the pressure release valve. Ran the boat and had NO alarm temp fault. The temp stabilized at 169 port and 173 degrees starboard side at 5000 rpm.

What is the normal operating temp between 4000 and 5000 rpm?

I will receive the water pressure sensor and ultra high flow water screen tomorrow. Right now the problem looks to be pressure release spring too high or low water pressure.

Thanks baja200merk

**racer** · 09-28-2016, 09:51 AM

Those temps are a bit high at 5000. Sounds like a lack of water pressure as I doubt 2 different relief valves are bad. Did you verify temp at 5k with the IR gun?

**fastcat1** · 09-28-2016, 10:02 AM

No checked the temp with IR only with the hose.

I agree – looks like low water pressure. That is the reason for the ultra high flow water screen. I did notice that one side of the water screen is broken.

Some people have had the same problem and fixed it by going to an Ultra High Flow water screen.

Thanks racer.

**baja200merk** · 09-28-2016, 11:59 AM

The factory pisser is screwed into the back of the cowl correct?

**dcarter** · 09-28-2016, 12:48 PM

Could the water passages be blocked with crud? I know when the get blocked it can cause overheat problems and the heads need to be pulled and all the water passages cleaned with vinegar or some other solvent.

**fastcat1** · 09-28-2016, 12:49 PM

Yes, pisser is in place.

these ETEC have quite a few heating issues from what I have read on other forums.

**fastcat1** · 09-28-2016, 01:02 PM

Originally Posted by dcarter

Could the water passages be blocked with crud? I know when the get blocked it can cause overheat problems and the heads need to be pulled and all the water passages cleaned with vinegar or some other solvent.

How do I check for this? The motor has around 500 hrs and very well taken care off.

**racer** · 09-28-2016, 02:07 PM

The broken screen can cause the issue you are having.

**pointer** · 09-28-2016, 04:41 PM

Are the Thermostats # 5005440, and the Thermo seals, number escapes me right now, are the ones that are installed on the flange of the thermo?

Agree 100% with Racer, it will cause the issue you are having. The big scoop intake screens do help.

pointer

**baja200merk** · 09-29-2016, 08:08 AM

You didn't instal a new transducer or hull pickup that could disturb the water going to the case?

**dcarter** · 09-29-2016, 08:46 AM

Here is some info of corrosion lining the water passages and what someone did to correct it.

http://forums.floridasportsman.com/s...-in-a-outboard

**fastcat1** · 09-29-2016, 12:15 PM

Originally Posted by pointer

Are the Thermostats # 5005440, and the Thermo seals, number escapes me right now, are the ones that are installed on the flange of the thermo?

Agree 100% with Racer, it will cause the issue you are having. The big scoop intake screens do help.

pointer

Yes 5005440 is the part number I used with new O-Rings seals.

Thanks pointer

**fastcat1** · 09-29-2016, 12:16 PM

Originally Posted by baja200merk

You didn't instal a new transducer or hull pickup that could disturb the water going to the case?

No, the boat has been the same for years.

Thanks baja200merk

**fastcat1** · 09-30-2016, 07:25 AM

Originally Posted by dcarter

Here is some info of corrosion lining the water passages and what someone did to correct it.

http://forums.floridasportsman.com/s...-in-a-outboard

Thanks dcarter. Good info.

**spbutler** · 09-30-2016, 07:32 PM

I had a similar problem with a 2012 250 HO except mine was overheating around 1100 rpms. Water pump was replaced by dealer and it seemed better and also cooler at high speeds140s, a few times out then it came back again. it was also the port side that was running hotter verified with a temp gun. Dealer replaced water pump again and it was running even cooler at high speeds 130s but was still getting occasional high temps around 1100 rpms. at the end of last season I replaced the 4 hoses with clear hoses and then kept running a garden hose in every direction through the hoses to see if there was some sort of restriction,. it was hard to tell. I also poured Prestone down every which way before putting the motor away just to make sure no water was left. At the beginning of this season I left the clear hoses on and took a test ride and didn't notice any air bubbles and I wasn't having the hot temperatures either, which was in the 190s when it happened last season. So maybe all that flushing with the motor not running flushed something out. I'm not sure but I thought this all started when I did the motor flush through the flushing port. I haven't used it since and run the motor on muffs if I want to flush it. After that i did go with the high performance flow water screens. I bought the ultra high flow but thought they stuck out too far and might get hit by a stick and shatter. Problem has been good all season. So it may have been a combination of things, the second water pump did make a big difference, either the first one went bad or the install wasn't done correctly, There is an updated tech bulletin on the correct procedure for replacing the water pump. I believe it's something about pulling up on the shaft and to use sealant. The flushing did do a thorough flush I was able to make a rig so I could get full hose pressure going in each direction and pulled thermostsats to flush through on the housings. and the high flow screens must help if you looh at how small the intakes on the original screens.

Evinrude factory rep said there is a procedure to reroute the water hoses to alleviate the issue if it comes back/