Where did the core on my Valero go?

[XstreamVking]

Hippie, my V-King has the original glass box stringer. Seems to work fine. No need for wood stringers, unless you want them.

[tunnels]

Hippie, my V-King has the original glass box stringer. Seems to work fine. No need for wood stringers, unless you want them.

There is no need for wood stringers ! if you have a glass hollow box put a big hole in each end to let it breath! for sure it will attract moisture at some time !!

[W2F a V-King]

My 1978 vking had the stringers on top of the core down the pad and it is going back just like that. I have read both ways, some will say one way is wrong over the other. I think just make sure to bed the stringers in some good glass and make sure to glass them good again once installed and either way good to go!

I too have read both methods of stringer placement. It must be different guys at the factories building them as they were taught, and either way seems to get the job done. Maybe one way is quicker than the other...don't know.

In thinking structural, I wonder about putting a structural brace or stringer on a softer bed, ie core? It obviously works either way.

I have also read that if the wood is encapsulated properly in fiberglass that it takes a lot longer to rot out. It's pretty obvious (in my 79 V-King) that they did skimp on glass. The CSM that covers the stringers and core was very thin, and the way the floor drained into the bilge area, the core and stringers were constantly wet.

I will say that the few spots where the core was dry (mostly up front towards the bow) it was tough to get out. I kept thinking how much harder the work would be to remove a good solid core. So for that matter it is good that it rotted so completely.

Got to love the itching from cutting and grinding this stuff.... NOT!!

As a side note to guys reading this that may start a re-core on any boat..An oscillating saw is a must have tool. Sure does take a lot of the elbow grease out of the demolition phase of the project. jmo..

James

[Capt.Insane-o]

Surprisingly they are factory holes and they had the wood grain panels with the gauges and switches in them. But yeah, gonna be a treat to fill em in. lol

[Hippie459MN]

Thats nice! Gives me hope. lol

[W2F a V-King]

Me too.. My dash looks like Swiss cheese as well.
Counted the hole in my transom.. 20... Huh? Must have had many different kinds of motors over the years..

Great job filling those holes Capt !

James

[Capt.Insane-o]

Me too.. My dash looks like Swiss cheese as well.
Counted the hole in my transom.. 20... Huh? Must have had many different kinds of motors over the years..

Great job filling those holes Capt !

James

[W2F a V-King]

So now I am inspired to keep at it!
Like the color too..what is that color?
Right now my boat has so many holes in it.........it whistles going down the road on the trailer.....

Bet you hate the thought of cutting holes for the motor...hmmmm...maybe just a good coat of 5200 between the jack plate and the transom..............Ha..JK..

James

[150aintenuff]

considering ive seen 5200 peel gelcoat from fiberglass it may just work...lol

[JBMac]

5200 is some pretty serious chit!

[Varmint]

I too have read both methods of stringer placement. It must be different guys at the factories building them as they were taught, and either way seems to get the job done. Maybe one way is quicker than the other...don't know.

In thinking structural, I wonder about putting a structural brace or stringer on a softer bed, ie core? It obviously works either way.




James

In a hull that needs a full core,it is much easier the lay the core,bond it,then build your stringers on top.some guy's on here,have bypassed the core,and built a stronger stringer grid,and had success.either way i would still core the pad/running surface.

[W2F a V-King]

In a hull that needs a full core,it is much easier the lay the core,bond it,then build your stringers on top.some guy's on here,have bypassed the core,and built a stronger stringer grid,and had success.either way i would still core the pad/running surface.

It would be a lot easier to bed the core, then build the support system of choice.

I was just thinking it would be better structural wise to bed the stringer directly on the hull then fill the rest of the core area as needed. This is jmo, and it seems Howards guys did it both ways.

Fortunately the V-King core is only 32" wide and tapers to a point up in the bow. So almost anyway one decides to go is easy for this boat. I have a Vector to do next, and not 100% sure but think they have a full core...I'll find out when I get into that one..

I can only imagine the intricacies of re-coring a YT hull.


James

[tunnels]

just unidirectional bedded into CSM an no stringers or stiffeners at all lighter and easy to lay! or you could use a double bias over the Csm ! not quite as stiff as it runs 45 degress + - but perfectly ok !the 2 layers of unidirectional id set at 10 degrees to each other running across ways , so would be a little stiffer. And because there is a very light weight csm on the surface to face up then wet out and lay peel ply and roll all out together with hard roller and no sanding after the peel ply is hard and ripped off just a quick hand scuff and ready to paint .

[baja200merk]

My brother bought a vector that we knew was rotten. He cut the floor out and ran a saw down the top layer over the core flipped it over and used a shop vac and a broom to remove the old core.

[Capt.Insane-o]

My brother bought a vector that we knew was rotten. He cut the floor out and ran a saw down the top layer over the core flipped it over and used a shop vac and a broom to remove the old core.

I've had many like that, takes 10-15 minutes with a razor knife to cut the skin off, and 5 minutes with a pressure washer to clean the dust out. It's the half rotten ones that suck.