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  1. #1
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    Trying to get my head around props...Now 3 or 4 Blade

    Long story short....I know flippin nothing other than how to make may little boat go forward and Back and it is a dog to say the least....A Like New 2011 Optimax 150 should have me flying in a 16 ft Schuster Tahiti but I can barely get to 45 MPH. Need to check RMP's the next time out.

    I have been and think I need a 23P prop over the 15x17P that is on it now. So now 3 blade or 4 blade.....I hear 3 blade gives blow lift...I don't need and 4 Blade will raise the stern.....This is making me crazy.

    Karsten

  2. #2
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    What rpm? Maybe you are on the rev limiter.
    what is your prop shaft height relative to the bottom of the boat?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by David View Post
    What rpm? Maybe you are on the rev limiter.
    what is your prop shaft height relative to the bottom of the boat?
    I need to get someone else in the boat to drive white I note the speed and RPM's....GF wont let me do better than 30. Cav plate is well buried in the water so I am guessing the prop shaft is 3-4 inches below the bottom of the hull....If not more.

    I know myself I need to raise the motor and that is in the plan here soon.

    I will know more about Top WOT here after the weekend.

    Why a 4 blade 23p over a 3 blade 23P....I was told the 4 blade will raise the stern were the 3 blade will give bow lift and that I don't need.

    Karsten

  4. #4
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    At 45 mph you are overthinking 3 or 4 blades. I have had success with both on my 16 Baja. If you are not on the rev limiter something else is way off.

  5. Likes David - WI liked this post
  6. #5
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    Trophy will run well and be a decent all around wheel, you'll need a 24 or 26, but you'll also need a manual jackplate to get that motor out of the water so it'll be somewhat driveable. Without a jackplate you might as well leave that pontoon boat prop on it because it will be impossible to drive at a decent rate of speed.
    > Stainless steel Merc cowling plates - $110 shipped TYD - LINK <

    1979 16' Action Marine/2.5L Merc S3000 - Metalflake Maniac
    1984 18' Contender Tunnel/2.4 Merc Bridgeport

    "Where does the love of God go, when the waves turn the minutes to hours?"

  7. #6
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    Thanks everyone for the advice so far. Spent a week on the water and almost got to full throttle.....Not enough water to make it all the way. 5400 RMP's and 45 MPH and drives like a school bus...let someone else drive. Made 4 runs and the best was all the same even trimmed up to 2.5.

    So told the boat shop this info and he recommended a 19P.....I knew that wasn't going to make much difference.

    Started talking about a 4 blade Solaris and he can't get them....He checks his used props and just happens to have a 4 blade Michigan Wheel Apollo XHS 20P at what seamed to be a pretty good deal......Use it, run it and see what you think and come back and pay me if you like it.



    Totally different boat, a little longer to plane but flat out ran jumping to 30 and then 45 MPH and smooth and flat at glass even in the bumps.

    The big deal was the GF favorite words were Slow Down......at 25-30 and slowly through the bumps. Now I can run at 40 and through the bumps and she and good with it.... Got it up to 45 and she let it go for a bit before I heard the slow down Buzzer go off.

    Steering is 100% better....Maybe closer to a Corvair Monza or opel GT. I still think the OB is to deep so maybe you can tell from these pic's. Can't drop the motor flat without hitting the ground.







    I took it out by myself and hit 47 MPH before I ran out of water and it still had more.

    So what do you all think....I am thinking Trim Wedges and a 4 inch jack plate.

    Karsten

  8. #7
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    Are you looking for more speed or what is your main goal? If so and you are going to keep the boat then you need to invest in the following:

    1. Low water pick-up (no sense in in raising the motor if it can't get water once its up)

    2. Jack Plate

    3. Water pressure gauge and tach (the little smartcraft gauge is plug and play), the other thing is that you know what the ecu is seeing not some aftermarket gauge that you hope is correct.

    4. A decent prop that you can work with once you determine the pitch and diameter for your desired RPM (this will all change once the motor is up).


    Hope this helps, you can call anytime if you feel lost in the process. My guess is that you potentially have a mid to high 50s boat on your hands if its not real heavy-optis make a lot of torque.

    Joe

    386 527 1845

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JPEROG View Post
    Are you looking for more speed or what is your main goal? If so and you are going to keep the boat then you need to invest in the following:

    1. Low water pick-up (no sense in in raising the motor if it can't get water once its up)

    2. Jack Plate

    3. Water pressure gauge and tach (the little smartcraft gauge is plug and play), the other thing is that you know what the ecu is seeing not some aftermarket gauge that you hope is correct.

    4. A decent prop that you can work with once you determine the pitch and diameter for your desired RPM (this will all change once the motor is up).


    Hope this helps, you can call anytime if you feel lost in the process. My guess is that you potentially have a mid to high 50s boat on your hands if its not real heavy-optis make a lot of torque.

    Joe

    386 527 1845
    all of it works together and they handle a ton better once you get the motor up out of the drink.
    > Stainless steel Merc cowling plates - $110 shipped TYD - LINK <

    1979 16' Action Marine/2.5L Merc S3000 - Metalflake Maniac
    1984 18' Contender Tunnel/2.4 Merc Bridgeport

    "Where does the love of God go, when the waves turn the minutes to hours?"

  10. #9
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    if it's like my opti you can go to the bottom hole on the mount and still have pressure. is it a L or XL and transom height is 15-16 for the L and 20 ish for the XL. once that high you will be rostertailing and loose grip(more rpm but less speed) before you run out of trim.

    also invest in a gps or phone app that displays speed, the water tube is good but can be off 5-6mph or more.
    '06 Tracker All-Fish/Tournament V-18 90 Optimax, 46.8 gps Goal one complete reach 45 mph.

  11. #10
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    Well 4 inch set back and 4 inch lift jack plate is setting in the shop, have a new lifting eye, SS bolts to mount the motor to the plate....waiting on a couple tubes of 3M 5200. I have a second prop on the way MI Wheel Apollo 22P and might save my change for a MI Wheel Ballistic 23P and a prop lock by next spring.

    As for the lower I believe it is a 20 Inch.

    Nor sure how many more trips our I will get to make as they are letting water out and places are getting low around here unless we start getting some serious rain soon.

    Karsten

  12. #11
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    I would recommend against using 5200 to seal the bolts. It will make it a nightmare to get the plate off down the road. 4200 will seal the holes just as well but doesn't have the adhesive properties of 5200 in case it ever has to come apart.
    I was going so slow I almost crashed. - JamesGang

    1978 24 Superboat - 250 EFI
    Sold: 1991 Starliner - 250 EFI Merc 3.0

  13. Likes NICE PAIR, Dave Strong liked this post
  14. #12
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    Well the MI Wheel Apollo 4 Blade SS 14x22P arrived today and we are headed out for 4 more days on the water Sunday....Jack plate is here but haven't the time to get it done along with everything else.



    So we will see how this goes.

    MI Wheel 23P Ballistic prop will be here when we get back.

    Karsten

  15. #13
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    Didn't get to try the 22P out thanks to the gods of rain keep the boat in the parking lot. When we got back that shiny thing was sitting on the porch waiting for me....23P Ballistic



    Karsten
    Last edited by Karsten; 09-19-2016 at 02:56 PM.

  16. #14
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    slough, england, united kingdom
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    o think the ballistic will realy wake that up.
    migt need to get the engine up a couple of inches too.
    45mph is realy slow for that boat and engine.
    but the holeshot must be incredible, will go a touch slower out the hole, but a lot lot faster top end.
    both the ballistic and the Apollo loo nice.
    the Apollo should be better for ski-ing or tubeing etc and give the best slow plane, but I do like the look and the rake of the ballistics.
    ballistic should be a lot faster top end.
    please let us all know the results you get.

  17. #15
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    I just came back from pulling the 20P Apollo off and installing the 22P Apollo....Think I will save the Ballistic until spring when the ponds are full and I can play hard.

    The 20P Apollo 4 blade completely changed to attitude of the boat. No more is it like driving a school bus and the handling is more responsive. It needs more throttle to get on plane then it is smooth and flat jumping to 30 MPH and 40 is right there then 45 and still more throttle but the lack of water right now is hurting the play time.

    The GF no longer was saying to slow down at 25 MPH but was all the sudden okay doing 40 through the bumps and even let me run it up to 45 before she would say okay that is enough after a few minutes. Now rather than her saying stop so we can float and I can smoke it was keep going....do another lap or 2.

    I did get out myself while she was getting the trailer and made a run at 47-48 MPH before having to slow down due to the water level.

    Changed out the 55 MPH Faria Speedo back to the 80 MPH one and the speedo checked out to be accurate against a phone GPS.

    Now to see what the weather brings for the next couple weeks before we start getting slow here and try the 22P Apollo out.

    Karsten

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