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  1. #16
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    "you must be very young or very energetic" Wow - thanks for the compliment!! I will tell my wife you said that !!

    How did it become confirmed these are sleeves?
    How is known these sleeves are not oversized and were pinned for extra security? Is there some way to measure or confirm sleeves or not and sleeve size?
    Why would some manufacture even offer sleeves that were not oversized if this is not a valid way to do this?

    I really do appreciate the responses even if they are not what I would want to hear- There is much to be learned hear. Maybe an old dog can learn a few tricks...

  2. #17
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    excuse me i had no idea you did not even know 101 basics of a out board motor every motor has sleeves, no sleeve is pinned from Mercury only shade tree mechanics , all sleeves new are standard bore id and od ( this statement covers a lot of ground which you will not understand) bore is a relevant phrase , they offer over size sleeve because some dinger pins one and a competent builder removes it a replaces it with a over size one after its been screwed up you cant check it with a 16' tape measure

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEXAS20225 View Post
    excuse me i had no idea you did not even know 101 basics of a out board motor every motor has sleeves, no sleeve is pinned from Mercury only shade tree mechanics , all sleeves new are standard bore id and od ( this statement covers a lot of ground which you will not understand) bore is a relevant phrase , they offer over size sleeve because some dinger pins one and a competent builder removes it a replaces it with a over size one after its been screwed up you cant check it with a 16' tape measure
    Well that was helpful .........why are you pissed

  4. #19
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    For the most part all fishin motors have a steel sleeve in an aluminum block when produced.The aluminum was bored around .003 smaller than the OD of the original steel sleeve.The block is heated to around 450 degrees,and the sleeves just drop in.When it cools they are SUPPOSED to stay put for life.But in production sometimes things happen,tool bits get dull ect,and the projected dimension changes.You get a bore that is .001 big and a sleeve that is .001 small.Now you have a .001 interference fit,not enough to hold a sleeve long term.My opinion,on your motor if you want to try running it,clean everything up hone bore lightly,sand the scuffed mark,new rings and run it.BUT don't run it two or three weekends,and then turn around and sell it to someone as a " excellent running rebuilt motor" That's the stuff we read about here all the time.If a buyer KNOWS what he is buying,and is willing to take the risk all is good.I know that all to often the "right way" and the affordable way are different sides of the road.

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  6. #20
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    who's pissed not me some folks you cant help they know too much

  7. #21
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    Interesting thing is PH really looks like it has never been off nor opened. Head bolt paint perfect- no marks - I know the head bolt are not re-used but they have to be torqued- same all the way around- exhaust manifold bolts- intake bolts- no marks and paint perfect. Standard bore and matching pistions- The SN # welch plug is missing and hole for it painted and un-marked-
    Just a courious...

  8. #22
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    Painted after assembly.
    Dave

  9. #23
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    in common sense terms the only reason to pin a sleeve is because its too loose and spun not only is it too loose its most likely too small and will not transfer heat causing piston to smear sooner then later its just not the way to repair a bad hole in a block

  10. #24
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    don't make a hill a beans "WHAT' IT LOOKS LIKE" its still junk tha way its built right now... it did not leave a MERC production line like that but could have been one of tha reman builders very easily.... you can get lotsa practice, spend lottsa $ buildin' it just like it is over n over, or ya can listen and fix it right tha first time..............

  11. #25
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    Not a big fan of "O" ring blocks. Most of the time you will see separation between the block and the sleeve. I always cut .045 off each deck and make it a gasket block then I don't have to worry about it. Outasite has it correct If the interference is not correct then the sleeve can not transfer the heat. I deal with many blocks that others have had machined and have a immediate failure. If the block and sleeve are not touching and you bore it .015 the sleeve is thinner and easier to distort and will fail very quickly. To correctly repair your block, the sleeve would have to be removed and the area where the pins are welded and then a over sized OD sleeve installed.

    Here is a example of a block and sleeve not touching. This is after the block had been bored .007 over. You can see the large area that didn't get cut. It took being bored .012 to get it all. This block had a very severe scuffed piston and when I measure the bore prior to boring it, it was .007 out of round I knew then the block had been egged due to the additional materials being transmitted to the cylinder walls and the piston going back over it "pushed" against the walls egging it. These are the ones that fail almost instantly.

    James Perry

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  13. #26
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    James outasite did not mention no heat transfer it was yours truly which i learned from a guy in Dunlap Tennessee who works on these things you get that super duper idea off the board yet

  14. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEXAS20225 View Post
    get that super duper idea off the board yet
    I might know something this weekend if I get a chance.

    Got all 6 sleeves in the 200 and decked. All I like is boring and honing and doing that tomorrow. Block will probably going out Monday. I Didn't get a chance to cut the 260 sleeves will try to run them next week. Will go ahead and pull sleeves out of the other block to measure them.
    James Perry

  15. #28
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    "sleeve would have to be removed and the area where the pins are welded and then a over sized OD sleeve installed. ''
    Gonna need 2 sleeves I believe-
    Mr. Perry would this be a job you would consider? Your reputation proceeds you so I am sure you are very busy- how long is your waiting list? Any Idea of cost?
    I guess my alternate is the scrap bin for the block- and I have bunch more spares I don't need - I am in Nashville

  16. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by TEXAS20225 View Post
    James outasite did not mention no heat transfer it was yours truly which i learned from a guy in Dunlap Tennessee who works on these things you get that super duper idea off the board yet
    Sorry Pilgrim,but I did beat ya to the draw.Way back in post #4

  17. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by CircleHook View Post

    Your reputation proceeds you
    Thank you......

    Not allowed to accept work off of here. My experiences with those blocks, it may need more than just the 2 that are pinned as I usually see things that people don't notice because I know what to look for and it might end up needing all 6 as it is hard to tell without looking at it in person. If you are going to scrap it let me know I would be interested in it.
    James Perry

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