School me on Jack Plates

**Karsten** · 07-25-2016, 09:24 PM

So I brought up motor height to the guy that hung my motor and he was so against Jack Plates and what not and told me anything other than what I have read or heard.

So to my thinking a 4-6 inch Jack plate will get you into Clean Water off the back of the hull.

Then you can adjust the Cav Plate to the correct height at surface level.

I need to go down to the shop and drop the motor but I am thinking my 20 inch shaft mounted at the top (2011 Merc 150 Optmax ) is mounted about 2-3 inches to deep.

Have the motor raised the the next holes or a Jack Plate.

Control Bundle is scraping the paint off the Splash Well.

Any thoughts.

Thanks

Karsten

**Bodhi** · 07-25-2016, 09:53 PM

Unless the guy that hung your motor saw something wrong with your transom or its support. ....I can't see any reason not to mount a 6" on your boat, the benefits will IMO would be saving your paint, and allowing to change engine height without having to un bolt the motor each time.....you might want to surface that merc one day and let that boat fly!

**Karsten** · 07-25-2016, 10:16 PM

Bodhi,

Thanks for the reply. I had asked about a 4 inch to start and he was all like why do you want that. Transom is new and the 150 runs fine but I think it is in need of a little fine tuning to get it to 45-50 MPH and above.

Your Pic shows plenty of clearance for the Control Bundle while mine is buried in the splash well......I don't think that is right.

I will have to get some pic ASAP.

Karsten

**Jimboat** · 07-26-2016, 09:00 AM

Originally Posted by Karsten

So I brought up motor height to the guy that hung my motor and he was so against Jack Plates and what not and told me anything other than what I have read or heard. Karsten

Karsten - It really depends on what you're wanting to accomplish. if you don't have any performance complaints currently, then you may not need the setback. A jack plate will, however, always give you the best method of adjusting motor height to the optimum for your boat.

Here's some info in an article on Jack Plates.

**Bodhi** · 07-26-2016, 12:37 PM

Originally Posted by Karsten

Bodhi,

Thanks for the reply. I had asked about a 4 inch to start and he was all like why do you want that. Transom is new and the 150 runs fine but I think it is in need of a little fine tuning to get it to 45-50 MPH and above.

Your Pic shows plenty of clearance for the Control Bundle while mine is buried in the splash well......I don't think that is right.

I will have to get some pic ASAP.

Karsten

Definitely go for it, I prefer a 6" setback and manual adjustment, I have a Z Lock made by TH Marine and it's trouble free. I remember your last thread when you hung the merc....the boat came out amazing! Post more pics

**Bodhi** · 07-26-2016, 12:41 PM

Click image for larger version.

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Here's the only close shot I can get on mine

**Karsten** · 07-27-2016, 09:32 PM

Bare with me and maybe other can learn from my ignorance on this mater.

Looking at both 4 and 6 inch jack plates with the 150 Merc hang off the back 4-6 inches will the tip point on the trailer/Center of balance be off ( Think the motor just about weights the same as the hull).

Next question is it as simple as lifting the motor up, undoing the 4 bolts and bolting it all back together again....Sorry to sound so lame......Give me a Corvette, a Harley or a Firearm and I can figure it out.....Flippin floaty things just aren't making sense about how it is all supposed to work when doing your own mods.

Thanks again for any feed back or advise.

Karsten

**Bodhi** · 07-27-2016, 10:15 PM

Originally Posted by Karsten

Bare with me and maybe other can learn from my ignorance on this mater.

Looking at both 4 and 6 inch jack plates with the 150 Merc hang off the back 4-6 inches will the tip point on the trailer/Center of balance be off ( Think the motor just about weights the same as the hull).

Next question is it as simple as lifting the motor up, undoing the 4 bolts and bolting it all back together again....Sorry to sound so lame......Give me a Corvette, a Harley or a Firearm and I can figure it out.....Flippin floaty things just aren't making sense about how it is all supposed to work when doing your own mods.

Thanks again for any feed back or advise.

Karsten

Gotcha, no sweat man. Your trailer really shouldn't see any new setup needs by setting back 4-6" , maybe if you started getting into 10" you'd feel a bit lighter int he tongue weight.
As far as setting one on your stern....it's as easy as ( in manual) just loosen 6 bolts , bring the motor up or down and ighten them back up....simple as that man. And please keep posting any questions. ...that's how you learn

**Coupe427** · 07-29-2016, 12:24 AM

When you unbolt the motor, clean the transom real well and make sure to use 4200 sealant or similar in the holes through the transom when bolting the jack plate on. Buy good quality bolts too. Once the plate is on just bolt the motor to the plate and your done.

Hopefully I'm not trashing your intelligence but since you seem new, they have a tool that installs in the flywheel to hang the motor from to lift it. Makes it simple and hangs the motor pretty level.

**JPEROG** · 07-29-2016, 12:50 AM

If performance is your goal, you will want to get a low water pickup added to your gear case then run the motor high enough with a good prop and get rid of the drag. This is when things become interesting and mph will start to show up. Your motor being direct inject makes great torque and potential to be a lot of fun.

Joe

**perfmarine1** · 07-29-2016, 06:45 AM

If you go with a jack plate, get a elect/hydro that can be adjusted while you are running.Pros- The less gearcase in the water = less drag. Plus you can raise the motor high for running in shallow water,on plane or off.(note water intake height) Lower the motor to work on it. Raise the motor to trailer it. The set back can improve bow lift if needed. Cons- $$$ does add weight to back of boat.

I believe the pros way outweigh the cons on a elect/hydro and would not run a boat without one. Unless it's a light weight race boat.

One thing, you did buy a heavy motor for that boat IMO so I would run the boat and see if it porpoises,if it does not then a jack plate will be a improvement.

**Karsten** · 07-31-2016, 06:20 PM

Coupe-427

Nope......I figured all that but it is always great to have people that know explain it again. Found the tool you are talking about also. As for bolts I just had the 150 merc hang and they sealed all the holes really well....But I will need more bolt.

No Porpoising and is on plan in the length of the boat when trimmed right out of the hole. I wanted to drop the motor to see how deep it is but I sublet my shop back to the owner for a month so the place is pack with hail damaged cars and body parts.....Can't pull the boat forward the the Skeg is just about a buddies 1971 Corvette I am storing for him.

You can see in this pic the control bundle is buried in the splash well and no way to get under it even with the motor standing straight up. Motor is mounted in the second from the top hole.

Karsten

**Coupe427** · 07-31-2016, 08:50 PM

If you didn't put any sealant in the transom holes water will find a way to seep in and rot out the wood over time. That is probably the easiest way to ruin a transom.

**perfmarine1** · 08-01-2016, 08:53 AM

Originally Posted by Coupe427

If you didn't put any sealant in the transom holes water will find a way to seep in and rot out the wood over time. That is probably the easiest way to ruin a transom.

You can see the silicone around the bolts!