Balsa core lamination

[XstreamVking]

Biaxial fiberglass is +/-45 degrees. For someone who claims to have 30+ years of working with boats, how is it you don't know this?

He knows what I meant. I believe everyone else does too. Just wants to argue and rant about everything/anything you say.

[tunnels]

He knows what I meant. I believe everyone else does too. Just wants to argue and rant about everything/anything you say.

If you write wrong information that is miss leading and incorrect yes I will argue with you always !!

[tunnels]

[QUOTE=XstreamVking;2944750]Yes, on the 0/45 fabric. For everything.

This is part of you original post !! that you never corrected after I asked a number of times !!

[tunnels]

I'm in the process of rebuilding my hydrostream viper and am having trouble getting the core to stick. I am soaking the balsa with resin then soaking the hull then putting more on the balsa then set it on the soaked hull. The next day I go out and I can press on it and see it moving. With a little pry bar action it will pop out and I can see where it was actually adhered. I've been reading and I think I should get some cabosil to thicken the resin. What I think is happening is the balsa is soaking it all in leaving nothing left to bond with. I'm using about 5oz of resin per sq foot, is that about right?

Oh my god !!
YOU JUST USING RESIN ??
NOTHING ELSE ??
ALSO SOUNDS LIKE YOU ARE SKIMPING ON RESIN NOT WETTING ENOUGH !!
that is not a good way to try to stick anything to a glass surface !!
YES THICKEN THE RESIN WITH CARBOSILL BUT ALSO NEED MICRO GLASS FIBRES IN with the MIX !!
Can also use a layer of chopped strand matt saturated with resin and press the pre-wet out balsa into the wet glass matt AND NEEDS TO BE HELD DOWN ALL OVER TILL ITS !

[Gmcviper]

I would highly recommend not using cabosil our any type of thickened resin to lay down core, unless your vacuum bagging. If you read later in the thead I was wetting chop stand and setting the wet core in it.

[tunnels]

I would highly recommend not using cabosil our any type of thickened resin to lay down core, unless your vacuum bagging. If you read later in the thead I was wetting chop stand and setting the wet core in it.

for what reason do you highly recommend not using cabosil our any type of thickened resin to lay down core??? have you ever laid core before ??
When you say wet like how wet ?? was it soft and squishy when you pushed the balsa down into the wet squishy glass or just wet?? and did it stick ? and if so how well ??
whole thing sound very skeptical to me !!
And when you wet the balsa was the resin running down the sides of the blocks into the cracks and grooves before you flipped it over onto the wet glass ? or did you just wet the bottom surface and hope ?
Ok photos with lots of detail would be a great help in solving this mystery !

Have you ever thought about using CORE BOND ?? DO YOU KNOW WHAT IT IS ? ITS RECOMENDED BY THE MANUFACTURE !Personally have use tons of it ! literally ! and never had any problems with it ever !!
long time ago use carbosil, talc ,and micro fibers in standard resin again never a problem, troweled it out and laid the wet core into it ,pressed it down and let the resin ooz out every where cleaned up and carried on with the rest ! That was long time before the days of vac bagging and never used any form of weights to hold it down ! it sucked it self to the surface and always stayed there ! so why did you have problems ??

[Gmcviper]

fumed silica is carbosil under a different name !! all it does is thicken the resin has no guts what so ever . I wouldn't use just that ,no way !

This is my reasoning that hasn't been proven. Thickened resin won't soak into the wood as well, it will be harder to force out air pockets making it more likely to have voids and possibly distort the hull. Yes the hull should be supported while being rebuilt but it isn't feasible to support it so there is zero flex.

Either way if someone wants to use thickened resin go ahead, there's 1000+ ways to skin a cat. I just don't see it as a viable method.

[tunnels]

This is my reasoning that hasn't been proven. Thickened resin won't soak into the wood as well, it will be harder to force out air pockets making it more likely to have voids and possibly distort the hull. Yes the hull should be supported while being rebuilt but it isn't feasible to support it so there is zero flex.

Either way if someone wants to use thickened resin go ahead, there's 1000+ ways to skin a cat. I just don't see it as a viable method.

What about soaking the balsa before seating it down into the thickened resin ?? wouldn't that be more logical !! you'd never set dry anything on to any kind of thickened resin , even f you were using core bond !
And if you worried about filing voids etc making less stiff like a slurry not quite runny but not firm either somewhere in between !
You do have to do a little bit of logical thinking by yourself !!

[tunnels]

This is my reasoning that hasn't been proven. Thickened resin won't soak into the wood as well, it will be harder to force out air pockets making it more likely to have voids and possibly distort the hull. Yes the hull should be supported while being rebuilt but it isn't feasible to support it so there is zero flex.

Either way if someone wants to use thickened resin go ahead, there's 1000+ ways to skin a cat. I just don't see it as a viable method.

WHY NOT ?????

Way before the days of being able to buying core bond and the like off the shelf we always made our own thickened resins, 6 x 20 litre pails at a time and let it sit over night so was ready to be used the next morning !!.

[XstreamVking]

The core mfgs make their own core setting puttys Divilette, corebond etc. What is in it? Nothing magical I assure you. It is probably a mix of cab-o-sil, talc, and maybe some milled fibers, mixed with poly resin. So a properly mixed, and applied epoxy putty is gonna stick the core down so tight you couldn't get it loose with a chisel. IMO, With wet matt you take the chance that the core will "float" with out some force to hold it down. Like weights or a vac bag. But as said 1000 ways to skin that cat....

[dwilfong]

Wow is all I can say. Sorry but it's not rocket science. You all are making this way more complicated than it needs to be just for the sake of hearing yourself talk.

[tunnels]

The core mfgs make their own core setting puttys Divilette, corebond etc. What is in it? Nothing magical I assure you. It is probably a mix of cab-o-sil, talc, and maybe some milled fibers, mixed with poly resin. So a properly mixed, and applied epoxy putty is gonna stick the core down so tight you couldn't get it loose with a chisel. IMO, With wet matt you take the chance that the core will "float" with out some force to hold it down. Like weights or a vac bag. But as said 1000 ways to skin that cat....

The core bond iv used was vinyl ester resin and had 5 different additives !. Its was amazing stuff and had a slight flexibility that made it even harder to remove with H100 Core it was use a grinder all the way !H100 is about the density of pine wood We used it on yacht decks where winch bases were situated and cleats ,tracks were bolted through etc etc