Viper bottom coat bubbling

[digitish]

Can someone explain or point me towards an explanation of how to drill test holes? Thanks.

[1BadAction]

I wouldn't even waste my time drilling holes, the wood in that boat is worm food. Decide to either #1, tear it completely down to zero and rebuild it. Or #2 part it out as a project boat.

[afr]

thats a mess what jim said ^^^^^

[Karsten]

Maybe he ment balsa? Gary

Yes, sorry.....Should be End Cut Balsa. I have 5 sheets of it out in the shed.

Karsten

[Sonik]

I know for certain someone has been into that boat at some point as they were not built with a single stringer up the keel like that one picture. It should have 2 stringers running up to the dashboard or so along the outside edges of the pad. The advice above as far as safety is spot on as I'm sure the entire hull is wet and rotten. Slow speeds don't guarantee you wont end up swimming at some point if it decided to come apart. Sorry to kick you again while you're down but the reality is it needs serious attention.

[Karsten]

Here you go.

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/boa/5587692936.html

Then start the resto on the Viper and take your time.

I have 3 boats in various conditions....1971 Schuster Tahiti with a 150 Merc OptiMax ready to go, 1978 21ft. Taylor Stiletto working on getting it redone, would be float able if I put the interior back in it and a 1978 Glastron Carlson CVX-20 needing everything your boat does.

Karsten

[1BadAction]

Sorry to kick you again while you're down but the reality is it needs serious attention.

Nah I think we're all saying what needs to be said, stressing the importance of not running it like it is without being dicks.

Kicking him while he's down would be me saying what I REALLY think about hydrostreams after being bit by 2 of em. lol

[digitish]

Thanks again for the advice. I am going to work with someone to open up floor and redo the core & bottom paint. This is a family boat for us to get out on the lake. I am not looking to break any speed records so I don't mind adding some weight if it will make the core last longer or be more durable. I also nee to be able to leave the boat in the water over the summer at a dock. Is it a problem to leave these boats in the water for some reason? Would pressure treated wood be better than balsa or is there some other alternative that is more durable?

[transomstand]

NO pressure treated

Balsa is extremely "durable" if properly sealed. Areas of my core are 30+ years old.

[digitish]

I am hoping to get started on this ASAP. Can someone please tell me what materials I will need for strings, epoxy, glass, resin, etc. I am hoping to bang this out in a week with the help of someone who has rebuilt many boats but not Hydrostreams.

[digitish]

Can anyone point me to a place I can buy the materials near Boston, MA? Thanks.

[transomstand]

http://www.mertons.com/

They got it all

[digitish]

Well, you guys were right. Core was rotten, pic attached.

I am trying to get this done quickly, hopefully on the water in a week or so. Does anyone by chance have a list of what is needed for this?
Here is what I am thinking...
1) Two half inch 2' x 4' Balsa core sheets.
2) 1 Gallon resin & 1/2 Gallon hardener.
3) Marine plywood for stringers 3/4 inch.
4) 17 oz biaxial sheet 10 yards? 50" wide.

[digitish]

What is the best bottom paint if I plan on leaving the boat in the water for 3 months in the summer.

[olboatman]

What is the best bottom paint if I plan on leaving the boat in the water for 3 months in the summer.

I would not use bottom paint....When I left my boats in fresh water I used a bottom wax coating that stopped algae etc. You cover the bottom to above the water line and DO NOT buff it. Went on very fast and I think it was made by Mary Kate. It lasted about 3 months. Gary