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Thread: Mercury 200 EFI issues
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02-10-2016, 06:49 PM #1Junior Member
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Mercury 200 EFI issues
Hey all !!
Thanks for having me aboard, I came to this place on a referral from a friend of mine.
This is my first EFI outboard and I am having a few issues with it that I wish to get corrected, I do have a manual on the way but I was wondering if there is anything I can do while waiting to get my manual.
This is what's going on, but first my serial number 0T065877.
1) I am experiencing a rough idle, the best way to describe it is that it sounds like a race car engine with a thumper cam, I just purchased this craft and did a compression check before I purchased it, all 6 are at 135psi, I checked my gauge when I got home by taking a compression reading in my diesel to make sure it wasn't stuck or at least wouldn't go any higher then rechecked one cylinder again, 2 cylinders seem to be at fault, #4 and #5, plugs are significantly darker than the rest, my first thought was a fuel issue, I cleaned the system including removing the fuel cell and filling it with ethanol free gasoline, still had the same issue, I did a leak down test thinking a possible leaking injector, it primed to 38psi and held there before it slowly started to bleed off after just over a 1/2 hour, I started a spark check and made it to the number one cylinder before I had to quit on it for the day which leads me to my second issue, it started to smoke badly, like it was getting way too much mix, I pulled all six plugs out and all of them were fouled, wet, I am pretty sure its mix because I burned them clean with a propane torch and didn't get the reaction you would with fuel soaked sparklers, then I started it again and got the same result, lots of smoke and a stall.
If you guys would not mind pointing me in the right direction and giving me a diagnostic starting point that would be awesome, or if you have any questions first that I can try to answer about anything please feel free to ask, again, I am new to this board as well as EFI so please by all means... be gentle LOL !!!
Thanks all !!
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02-11-2016, 07:11 AM #2
Wet plugs and smoke are not unusual, especially when the temperatures are low....engine EFI system runs richer. If you just got the engine used and its an older 2.5L 200 EFI, you may want to have the fuel injectors cleaned so you can eliminate them. Do you still have the oil injection on the engine or are you premixing?
Welcome to the board.Go Time
2003XS GS 225 Promax/ 260 / 280
26 Regulator twin 250 EFI
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02-11-2016, 08:49 AM #3Junior Member
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Thank you for the welcome and the reply, I did run a fuel injection service through it when I cleaned the system, I replaced the fuel filters with factory filters, not cheap but worth it,Yes, it does still have the oil injection system in tact.
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02-11-2016, 09:58 AM #4
The injectors should be removed, cleaned and most important, flow checked to know where you are. Mechanical oil injection (especially on the 2.5L V6) can be problematic and I would recommend it removal and start "premixing" your fuel.....if the engine is running, it lubricated. Make sure you have a reputable mechanic remove the injection components and use factory block off on the pump mounting boss. Also, ignition problems are often miss diagnosed as fuel issues on these engines. Check the entire ignition system at idle and >2400RPM (stator has a low and high rpm side) to make sure proper system health.
Go Time
2003XS GS 225 Promax/ 260 / 280
26 Regulator twin 250 EFI
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02-11-2016, 11:26 AM #5Junior Member
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Thanks Go Time, If I do premix what is the ratio 50:1? other? when you say removal, complete removal? or just block off its feed to the fuel will work?
I do a lot of my own work, I have a fair amount of experience with pre injection, I am more in love with the marine industry than I am with the automotive side of things and really enjoy it, I have been an automotive tech for almost 40 years and working with the marine side of things for about 3/4 of that amount of time, not that that means anything just that I have faith in my abilities to make sure its done right, there is a lot of untrustworthy techs, marine and otherwise, around here in my area who just want your money and half arse work their way through an issue your having, I am willing to purchase any tools I may need to get it done and done right as long as I can have conversations with well experienced and knowledgeable people like yourself, I promise that what you say is followed to the letter, I will get what I need and once my manual gets here follow your guidance, many thanks and God bless !!!
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02-11-2016, 01:11 PM #6
I imagine finding good marine techs out there in the mountains can be challenging. Search the threads on this website (in the tech section) and you will find most topics covered in detail, especially removing oil injection. 50:1 should be fine for a stock motor being run under normal conditions.
Go Time
2003XS GS 225 Promax/ 260 / 280
26 Regulator twin 250 EFI
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02-11-2016, 01:18 PM #7Junior Member
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Will do and again many thanks !!!
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02-11-2016, 03:48 PM #85000 RPM
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Have you water tested it yet? Did the PO tell you of any problems?
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02-11-2016, 04:15 PM #9
What GoTime said, especially flowing the injectors. I send my to Powers Performance or Brucato. They both do good work. Remove all oil injection components starting at the pump. Merc makes a block off kit that blocks hole and retains bushing. Very important. Remove module. Remove pressure line from main oil tank (the one in the boat), remove barb (starboard side of motor), and plug with pipe plug. I also like to tdc all holes and mark flywheel accordingly. Then I use a timing light on all six holes to verify it is firing only on the correct hole. You may also find one hole a bit more advanced than the others and that is the one I set my timing by. Welcome to the site and good luck.
RockTeam Junk
No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.
"Screamin Heathen"
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02-11-2016, 05:31 PM #10Junior Member
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02-11-2016, 05:41 PM #11Junior Member
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Thanks for the welcome, I will definitely look into that kit and thanks for the tip, I was planning on reading up the threads that Go Time suggested tonight, as for the timing, I will see if that helps after I get my engine straightened out and running smooth again, this is the largest and most current engine I have had to date and even with the way its running its still pretty strong, I can only imagine what it will be like when she is right.
Thanks again it's much appreciated !!!!
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02-11-2016, 07:40 PM #12Oil Injection System RemovalThe mercury oil injection system is a popular item to remove, especially given its reputation for failure, and inability to deliver reliably after 6500 rpm.
Remove oil resevoir, oil pump, mag pickup, pump drive shaft, then install plug in shaft hole. Remove oil hose off bottom of vapor seperator, plug hose, remove fitting on starboard side of the block where oil tank pressure hose is coming from, plug hole with pipe fitting either 1/8 or 1/4., Remove oil alarm box, and i think that's all. the plug for the pump shaft hole you will have to get from dealer. (12)
Mercury part number for the plastic block off plate is 43453 and the O-ring for that kit is 32509.
Finally it is recommended by several sources, that you keep the old oil pump gear on the crankshaft, as it provides crankcase volume, and if removed will cause that cylinder to be lean.
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02-11-2016, 08:18 PM #13Junior Member
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02-28-2016, 05:26 PM #14Junior Member
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Fianlly got the chance to get around to diagnosing my issue, wanna say thanks for all the advise, it ended up being my ignition switch, some of the current was bleeding over from the push to choke in the run position, had a spare switch in my stash of parts and wired it up to finalize the fix, got a new ignition switch ordered as well as all the mix removal parts that I need.
Thanks again for all the input !!!
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02-28-2016, 07:02 PM #15Screaming And Flying!
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po is previous owner welcome aboard i rebuild lots of merc motors for a living, im sure i would have never found the ignition switch problem
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