Who in their right mind restores a BAYLINER?!

[home made tunnel]

Need Number drill bits #47, 46, 45. Chart link..


http://7id.xray.aps.anl.gov/tables/number_drill.html

Sweet ! thanks !
I ended up getting some bits from DrillBitsUnlimited.com.

Ordered up 3 new jets from Crowley Marine. Pretty sure I could get some brass dowel and start threading and making my own jets now haha.

YOU don't want a repeat of #3 so try to check the timing , try a little bigger jet in #3 than the rest . What is could be is the ex port size you now have and the ex mix that is getting into #3 from the stuf before close and the heat from that, but haven't seen it on #4 on the L4.

Hmm - Interesting thoughts - - - Jets coming soon - So I'm down for another few days until this stuff comes in. I'll check timing this afternoon while it's running, and re-adjust all the idle air jets.


SILLY QUESTION - - - At idle, should the cam roller be just barely touching the throttle cam? I know it's a balance of the idle adjustment screw, the cam roller, and the link between the two... Right now, at idle, my carbs are slightly cracked open.

[FMP]

Stock has the roller on the cam and carbs closed. The advance and idle mix screws keep it running. With the motor in gear and trimmed in set it with boat tied to the dock and motor warm. With the advance you have in it it should run with the carbs closed and the roller on the cam. Carbs plates will pass enough air at idle in the closed position. Roller is adjustable also , index marks are on the roller and or cam. Since you have ported it to the moon the idle may be a bit week. The towershaft should have an idle stop screw and jambnut that rests on the block/case back from the linkage. This sets the idle speed by ign advance at idle . Start at this point with carbs closed and cam on roller . If it needs more to idle adjust screw and nut and keep carbs closed buy adjusting linkage rod between.This is the perfect world but try it first. Adjust idle mix screws to fine tune speed in gear with carbs closed . This will not effect total advance. Also check throttle and shift cables adjust after to insure no slack and at WOT all carbs plates should be perfectly horizontal.

[W2F a V-King]

On the plugs?

First plug could use bit more gas, as second look pretty normal to me but maybe a tad rich. Last? Thats REALLY needing gas! Need some "chocolate brown" insulator like #1. Just my dumbass opinion...........

100%
I was thinking the same thing for looking at two stroke plug readings.

James

[home made tunnel]

100%
I was thinking the same thing for looking at two stroke plug readings.

James

Ok - So this clears it all up ... Cyl 1 needs more gas - Cyl 2 looks tad rich (but ok) - Cyl 3 is god awfully lean and needs fuel ?

[Euroski]

I would make them all like #3. Better safe than boom!

[FMP]

#3 .You kept the tuner stock? You won't burn it down with more jetting. But it looks like it's getting the colour from the pulse not from being too lean. If I pulled that plug from my motor I would think too rich because of the build up of spent gas on the plug.

[home made tunnel]

Jets and Drills are in the mail !
This was all from just running it 1/3 to half throttle. , and a few minutes idling back to the dock. I don't think I ever hit more than that. But boy does it pop out of the hole now - Wish I had gotten a video. Going to try to bring it to the dock this afternoon to adjust the idle

[Robby321]

Ok - So this clears it all up ... Cyl 1 needs more gas - Cyl 2 looks tad rich (but ok) - Cyl 3 is god awfully lean and needs fuel ?

Ya losing me here? #3 bottom looks rich enough, but rich way better than lean.

[FMP]

Jets and Drills are in the mail !
This was all from just running it 1/3 to half throttle. , and a few minutes idling back to the dock. I don't think I ever hit more than that. But boy does it pop out of the hole now - Wish I had gotten a video. Going to try to bring it to the dock this afternoon to adjust the idle

Compression is a beautiful thing , you notice any extra heat around that #3 cyl and head when running ? Where in this thread is the water passage issue on the base adapter plate, did that get resolved ?

[home made tunnel]

Ya losing me here? #3 bottom looks rich enough, but rich way better than lean.

I thought #3 was lean - Just asking all ya'll experts haha. I'm not one for reading plugs. That last pic I posted was exactly the cylinders they came out of - So the consencus is that # 3 looks Rich?

Compression is a beautiful thing , you notice any extra heat around that #3 cyl and head when running ? Where in this thread is the water passage issue on the base adapter plate, did that get resolved ?

Nope, didn't put my hand on it to feel - Just thought I heard some banging /detonation, so I didn't really get into it much.
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The water issue was resolved - It was the rubber sleeve from the pump to the water tube in the lower - It was old and leaking. It's brand new now.
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[home made tunnel]

So I went down to the dock, tied her up, started her up, Threw her in gear and tried setting the idle . . . SO MANY HEADACHES - - -

Original setup: Carbs were slightly on, cam roller was engaged 1/8" and the throttle adjust screw / timing screw was about half way out. Every once in a while, it would sputter and cough and woudn't like to idle well. The Fuel Air screws were 3.5 turns out. That's the only way I could get midrange throttle without it dying... Also before I fixed compression.

So I took the link off from throttle to carb roller, which had slight pressure on the butterflies... ... it WILL NOT RUN at all.
Fuel Air screws 100% in, 1 turn out, 4 turns out... Even took the idle air jets completely out and tried... No good.
Timing adjust screw: Didn't matter how far in or out this was... Engine would not fire at all with carbs shut tight.
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IF - i just barely touch the carbs open - She fires up.
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The best Idle I got was this...
Idle air screws: 1 and 1/8 turns out. (each a little different).
Ignition/idle screw: 100% advanced as far as she goes. .
Link from idle screw to cam roller... I spun it till it makes contact w/ roller... then another thread turn or two for pressure on the butterflies.
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That's the only way I could get it to idle decently.
Here's the kicker... If it idles in gear for a few minutes... as soon as i pull it back to neutral, it just kinda dies instantly, but starts right back up. WTFFFFFF
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I really couldn't get any results out of the idle air mixture screws at all.... because the engine wouldn't run with butterflies completely closed.
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Final results...
1000rpm idle speed Neutral\
800rpm idle speed in gear/
Fuel mix screws 1 & 1/8~ turns out
Idle/Timing screw set 100% advanced
Cam roller slightly touching / cracked with a thread or 2 of pressure with the link arm.
PROBLEM NOW... With these settings... at WOT the butterflies are only 3/4 open. I have no further adjustment in the cam roller oblong screw thing. I'M SCREWED ugh - Nothing in life is easy. About time to sell this and buy an E-tec 115

[W2F a V-King]

I think Robby321 and I were saying the same thing in reference to the "generic, sample picture you were using for rich lean and just right plug reading. Those were the plug readings we were referencing...

That said, your picture of the spark plugs that you pulled from your motor, #1 and #2 are lean, and #3 is close to being correct but on the rich side. jmho.
I personally like and tune my vehicles to get the porcelain color to resemble a golden brown like a piece of well done toast. btjm

Yes, leaner is faster to a fault. And faults in a two stroke happen quick!! I am hoping you were having double fire in #3, but would still follow FMP's advice and index your flywheel and check all three cylinders timing. Now that you have all new electronics that double fire thing should be gone, if that was what was happening.

Just for grins I am going to index my flywheels on the 3 outboard motors I have (2 fish motors and a PM 225) and do the same timing check. That was great advice FMP gave you there.

For the time being leave #3 alone, check the timing on all three cylinders.
And if it were me I would be certain of the WOT timing setting. I'd rather error on the safe side of timing by a few degrees until you get past your base line tune.

James

[home made tunnel]

I agree about checking timing for all 3 cylinders. That's next on the to-do list.
Prob do it tomorrow afternoon. If not, it'll be after the holiday.

[FMP]

So it runs in gear at slow rpm without sneezing lean. THen in neutral is sneezes and dies and fires up without changing anything, might be a 1/8-1/4 turn lean on one . Give it enough throttle adjust to keep it happy in gear. Is the roller indexed with the cam marks? If so then your in the good range . Throttle cable adjust in control box and at engine all set? Your missing something on the adjust, set it for plates flat at wot, all three . Check the index on the cam with the roller , roller can be moved nut on back, adjust link to cam to get your carb slight open at idle as needed.You know with them closed no air is bleeding through, good. Water, I thought you had a mystery passage on the adapter that may have been a mod by someone,I was looking for all those pics of the base and bottom of the block with the water passages. # 3 detonation from heat / early low speed pulse charge , fatten it up check the timing on it take back but it looks like the same issue as before on #3. Did you keep the popet and thermostat in it ? Earlier triples used the popet parts 92-96 . Also the t stat is 110* vs 130* . Yours might not have the popet but a cooler stat or no stat might help the heat.

[home made tunnel]

So it runs in gear at slow rpm without sneezing lean. THen in neutral is sneezes and dies and fires up without changing anything, might be a 1/8-1/4 turn lean on one . Give it enough throttle adjust to keep it happy in gear. Is the roller indexed with the cam marks? If so then your in the good range . Throttle cable adjust in control box and at engine all set? Your missing something on the adjust, set it for plates flat at wot, all three . Check the index on the cam with the roller , roller can be moved nut on back, adjust link to cam to get your carb slight open at idle as needed.You know with them closed no air is bleeding through, good. Water, I thought you had a mystery passage on the adapter that may have been a mod by someone,I was looking for all those pics of the base and bottom of the block with the water passages. # 3 detonation from heat / early low speed pulse charge , fatten it up check the timing on it take back but it looks like the same issue as before on #3. Did you keep the popet and thermostat in it ? Earlier triples used the popet parts 92-96 . Also the t stat is 110* vs 130* . Yours might not have the popet but a cooler stat or no stat might help the heat.

No poppet valve on mine.
I also don't have that 34-44 side assembly. Just brass "T"s threaded into the block.
Throttle cable adjust in control box and at engine all set? - Yes. As much throw as I can get out of them.
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I'll play with the roller indexing later - I'm pretty sure I had it adjusted to the closest setting to get the most throw out of it - But i'll take pics this afternoon.
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The water has been fine - Nice and cool. No poppet, but does have the t-stat installed.