Help-Locked Up 2.5

**jmadisonbiii** · 08-25-2015, 09:47 PM

I have a 2.5 ProMax block with a 260 front half and ECU which I've been running since June on my Allison. Sunday I was driving about 65-67 at about 6000 rpm. Heard a clank and the motor stopped suddenly. The gauge never showed hot, hot horn never went off. The motor won't turn over, flywheel rotates about 3/4" in either direction. I pulled both heads and didn't find the carnage I was expecting, not even a speck of metal. All pistons move about 1/4 or so when I rotate the flywheel. I have attached a pic of holes 5 and 6, they all look about the same. Any idea what may have happened here? Crank or lower? Lower unit ratchets freely but won't turn the motor. Just wondering what I've got to deal with here. Thanks

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**mn808gade** · 08-26-2015, 12:25 AM

remove gearcase,powerhead turns, prob upper driveshaft bearing failure.p/h still wont turn you'll prob find front half windowed under starter or VST.good luck -th

**patchesII** · 08-26-2015, 05:36 AM

My guess is a broken crank. Sometimes you get lucky and it doesn't hurt anything else, sometimes it trashes the block

**jmadisonbiii** · 08-26-2015, 10:30 AM

Drained the lower (4 hole CLE) before work this morning, nothing but clean water. Both upper and lower screws were still tight. I noticed a little fluid coming out of about a 0.15" (vent?) hole near the upper screw. I checked the fluid last trip out and it looked new. I will be able to drop the lower and get it to the shop in a day or 2 to take a look, but just wondering now what happened, how bad this will be.

**TEXAS20225** · 08-26-2015, 10:50 AM

no crystal ball will work on damage done, lower could have blown pinion bearing or crank could have broke hope for the lower unit failure ive had one that i was not smart enough to drop and check it i pulled powerhead and it rotated perfectly only to find both drive shaft bearings trashed

**TEXAS20225** · 08-26-2015, 10:51 AM

i hope you found something except clean water in your gearcase

**myron** · 08-26-2015, 11:10 AM

more than likely the driveshaft seal area is corroded, that would be where the water came from

**jmadisonbiii** · 08-26-2015, 11:55 AM

Originally Posted by TEXAS20225

i hope you found something except clean water in your gearcase

Well, the water that came out I could have mixed with scotch and drunk, not a drop of oil or "milk" in there. Must be a big hole somewhere. I'm sure the guts are all still there, though. Something is damn sure locked up.

I'll drop the lower first chance I get and post the results.

**TEXAS20225** · 08-26-2015, 12:23 PM

Gear case's were my bread and butter for almost 12 years long ago i cant truthfully say how many ive rebuilt and still doing it for my rebuilt motors when i sell one as a whole unit , if you had no oil in the case thats a great sign thats what has happened bearing failure or pinion gear stripped, shift shaft seal done or bearing carrier seals done of water pump seal under water pump shaft corroded any of those could have happened

**jmadisonbiii** · 08-26-2015, 04:03 PM

OK, from the schematics this thing looks like a lot like a regular 2.4/2.5 lower, which I am somewhat familiar with. I will look at those parts, take some pictures and post my findings. Thanks.

**TEXAS20225** · 08-26-2015, 09:01 PM

its the same with a couple exceptions drive shaft hardness, propshaft diameter is bigger and reverse gear has a bigger hole in it

**jmadisonbiii** · 08-27-2015, 07:43 PM

Dropped the lower, the powerhead spins great, no strange noises. I will break the lower down tomorrow and see what's torn up.

**jmadisonbiii** · 08-28-2015, 05:38 PM

Got the lower in the shop, removed the water pump and found water, rust and metal in the bearing below it. I have attached a picture, looks like that's where the damage is. Would this cause the whole lower to lock up so tight? Couldn't remove the bearing retainer nut, didn't have the spanner tool. I can order this and the spanner for the nut behind the bearing carrier if this is all I'll need, won't be too much $. Just wondering if that's the extent of the damage, since there weren't any shavings, chunks etc. in the lower unit oil, or on the drain plug. FWIW this thing apparently has CLE internals, there is a drain screw at the rear of the bearing carrier.

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**patchesII** · 08-28-2015, 06:18 PM

You don't need much to get it apart but you do need some special tools to get it back together correctly. Resist the urge to take it apart, take it to a good gearcase guy and let him take it down. The gearcase guy I use can't stand when people bring him cases that they took apart. There's inevitably missing parts and it makes it a little harder to diagnose problems.

**TEXAS20225** · 08-28-2015, 07:07 PM

Erik X 2 im all for saving money and have been all my life but never in areas that i have no experience the list cannot been made till its down
1. drive shaft wont hold a seal that is why it had no oil water pushed it out
2 must likely need speedy sleeves or spray welded and machined down or a fishing motor shaft installed, new drive shaft bearings ( 2 )
3.inspec gears (by some one who knows what he is looking at not the Barber) replace if necessary damage could be all bearings and gears if water was in there too long
4. reseal case top to bottom along with entire water pump and not a sierra
5.make it a practice to check you oil twice a year especially if your surfacing a wheel

if a marine shop does ALL this it could put you in second mortgage territory my be cheaper to get another case Cles are common for a grand