Tig Repair

**redgambler** · 08-13-2015, 11:28 AM

I have to repair a spot on V6 Mercury block. Is 5356 filler alloy what is used when welding on a V6 block?

**outasite** · 08-13-2015, 09:03 PM

I think the 4000 series fillers are better suited for aluminum castings.

**CharlieN** · 08-15-2015, 04:47 AM

4043 flows easier.

**redgambler** · 08-15-2015, 07:02 AM

Tenfo got some 4043. Thanks outasite and CharlieN

**Chaz** · 08-15-2015, 08:00 AM

Post some pictures ....

**tux974** · 08-15-2015, 08:05 AM

Originally Posted by Chaz

Post some pictures ....

What do you know about welding......

....

**Chaz** · 08-15-2015, 04:00 PM

Originally Posted by tux974

What do you know about welding......

....

If ya want to clear out the shop , all ya gotta do is turn on the lights ...

And if ya keep on top of the latest gizmo's like this overpriced , oversize pyrex gas lens , it will help step up yur game .... other than that , not too much ..

**sharpeye Mike** · 08-15-2015, 05:56 PM

That cup you have on your tig torch, never seen a clear one before, pretty cool.

**tux974** · 08-15-2015, 06:43 PM

LOL, that's a very cool toy you have there......

**Chaz** · 08-15-2015, 10:20 PM

Originally Posted by sharpeye Mike

That cup you have on your tig torch, never seen a clear one before, pretty cool.

"Toys" like that allow you to keep a larger area under the argon umbrella . I pretty much just use it for stainless header tubes. That along with argon purge on the inside lets the part cool a bit before you have move off of the area. Its pretty cool .. you can run the tungsten an inch and a half out in front of the cup and it will act just like it would if were flush . You can look under , thru , behind or any situation you find yourself in . The distortion is very minimal .

Post starter , best thing to do is sand any paint , alodine or dirt at least a half inch away a from the weld site. V out the parent material about half the thickness of the part . Squirt it pretty good with acetone or lacquer thinner . Air dry and then preheat the part to around 200 degrees , Weld with 4043 , Don't overheat the part , I know it will flow like butter , but to much heat is really no good , it will let the part distort . When your done , throw a tent over it . I just use an old bent up piece of .090 aluminum , so it will come back slow ...

**redgambler** · 08-16-2015, 11:07 AM

I'll post before and after soon as I can.

**Dr Honda** · 08-18-2015, 06:44 AM

I used 4043 on my block. It's held together now for 3 years. (knock on wood) Oh, and I used some 6061 scrap to cover the big holes. But I tried to use any large chunks of the original block. (The flange, and the fuel pump mount boss)

A rod cap bolt walked out... and in turn... the cap blew a part, and then the crank mashed what was left of the rod though the block. It beat the piss out of the back of the fuel pump, cracked the block internal... and shattered a sleeve. But, a little TIG time took care of most of it. The home oven was employed to put the new sleeve in. (boy, the wife was pissed. LOL)