Vector hull flex?

[outasite]

You can also bed to a wet layer of fiberglass. US Composites in West Palm is good and very reasonable pricing.

X2- Used there products on my build.Good people,good prices.There is no need to get carried away with hi tech this, and high tech that.Just good old resin(vinyl ester) plywood,glass and a lot of sweat.Taken care of,It will last as long as you do! Now go get it done!!!

[Gorilla0178]

Well, I dont agree. Unless the hull your doing is very flat, if you only use a layer or 2 of wet out glass how can you insure you have gotten all the air from under the core. Ive laid up plenty of flat panels on a glass table with no gelcoat on it and even a flat core on a flat table bricked down still had some air under it. Prob not enough to cause any issues but straight resin and glass does not fill in any gaps or spaces that are under the core, unless your planning on soaking the material and core before it goes in. I would go with a core bond of some type. We use Arjay brand bedding compound. I think the #4001. It gives plenty of work time and is easy to use. Id use a big notched trowel and put it on a little thick. Squish all the core into it and weight it down, clean up what squishes out after its down before it cures. Merrit marine supply in pompano or fiberglass coatings inc/joes auto marine in hollywood or st pete.

[Riverratt]

I used Hull & Deck putty from Merton's with a notched trowel to bed my core.

[Shak-e-Vector]

Any one familiar with Raka in Ft Pierce FL? They have good web site. lots of products.
my pics are always upside down no matter how I rotate them. How about the swiss cheese dash?

[dwilfong]

Check this out. http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...r-Resurrection lots of good info and step by step pics.

[GregAdams]

Your primary goal when bonding a core, is zero voids between the outer skin and the core. The core is light weight so it needs to be held down, so that it conforms to the laminate, while the resin or core adhesive gels. If you want to bond it on to the wet laminate, you can hold it down with vacuum, or a LOT of weight spread EVENLY over the WHOLE panel. This is even the case for flat panels. You can get away with using weight if the mould is substantial ( it wont deform under the extra weight ) especially if you use a caul plate. If the laminate isn't in the mould - i.e. you are rebuilding the hull, then the then the thin outer skin will deform if you put enough weight in it to make sure you haven't got any voids. So your other option is too use a core adhesive. The core adhesive is designed specifically to a give void free bond. It is a sticky paste. If you put enough down on the laminate and push the core into it with your hands it won't move when you take your hand away. I have bonded a lot of cores. In the god ole days we used lots of core adhesive and it works! The moral of this story is .... I would NEVER sit a core on wet glass, without adequate clamping pressure, when my life depended on the quality of the bond. And in this situation I can't see how you could get adequate clamping pressure, using weight, without distorting the shape of the hull.

[Shak-e-Vector]

So I'm seeing alot of different ways to build the core back. I'm going to grind it down clean, taking a while because it's not all rotten. After grinding seems like some guys put down a layer of 1708, then 1/2" balsa. What weight do I put on top of the balsa? 6oz cloth? And the main question what type of resin? Epoxy? Poly ester? Vinyl ester? Big price difference. In theory the core bond sounds good but again will add to the overall price of the build. Thick? Thin? Let me know.

[Shak-e-Vector]

Looks to me like spend the money for the epoxy. There literally was no bond to the hull or floor on the repairs made before me. Research tells me epoxy bonds better to cured glass and wood.

[outasite]

Vinylester will do everything you need @ less than half the cost of poxy.Your prep will determine the quality of your bond.

[FMP]

Glad someone brought this up, PLascore board; they say vinylester with mat and order the board scribed so it will flex to contours of the hull, then even weight and more vinylester and mat top side to complete the layers. Plascore seems like a good choice from .25 .5 .75 and one inch. Plan to use soon, same situation. $50 for a 1inch 4x8 honeycomb lattice with great bonding surface. PREP PREP PREP!!!

[Gorilla0178]

plascore is similar to nidacore, works great, ive used it a bunch. Only downfall is the cut edges, they need some putty on them to let the glass lay down nice. Stick with poly or vinylester.

[rjdubiel]

The glass on top of the core needs to be thicker than the bottom. All the forces of the waves and water on the bottom of the boat will push up on the boat, more glass on the top of the core to make the I-beam effect stronger when force is applied from the bottom of the boat. I would seriously suggest vaccuum bagging the core for a void free core install.

[FMP]

The glass on top of the core needs to be thicker than the bottom. All the forces of the waves and water on the bottom of the boat will push up on the boat, more glass on the top of the core to make the I-beam effect stronger when force is applied from the bottom of the boat. I would seriously suggest vaccuum bagging the core for a void free core install.

Yup, what he said!
What about refoam after the top layer, is it worth the effort? If the space is there.

[rjdubiel]

no foam in my viper. Taking most of it out of the vking also.

[dwilfong]

Cabosil mixed with Epoxy worked killer for a core bond. Lots of time to roll out all the air.
Ground out all the old core and bonded right on top of what was there. H60 1/2" prescribed with DB1700 on top is more than enough for the core.
Epoxy has a great tensile strength to it and a very good bond to old work.
http://www.fiberglassflorida.com/ind...oxy-resin.html
Add up the cost of core bond and resin .......epoxy and Cabosil will be cheaper than ester resin.
vinylester resin is about $350 for 7.5 gallons with MEKP. Epoxy is about $320 for a 7.5 gallon kit.
Never priced core bond but it ain't cheep.
Sorry to debunk the myth about the cost of epoxy......................................