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  1. #1
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    Evinrude shearing flywheel keys

    Ok Ive got a 76 Evinrude 200 on a Vector. A couple weeks ago had out on the lake and no power. Once on plane it would die out and no power but would idle. I had had this boat at 3 lakes and ran great no issues. The only change was a store installed sterio that I later found was a power wire shorted on the amp.The main wire came off the terminal and shorted on the amp case. Ive got a new amp and so far stater and trigger. So now the issues start. Long story short the old flywheel wouldnt come off and had to be cut off to replace the stater and trigger. Im assuming it was stuck due to using a impact to put it on when we rebuilt the motor??? So now that the flywheels been reinstalled Ive sheared 3 keys. What gives? Ive been tightening the flywheel nut by long wrench and holding flywheel by hand. Not tight enough? I ran it on a hose a couple min then retightened it but still holding it by hand. It ran ok tonight and got me to the farthest point from the launch kinda gave a couple pops and died. When I tried restarting it it just spun. I can turn the flywheel with no effort by hand. Any advise here Should I use a impact to reinstall?

  2. #2
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    inside of flywheel AND taper on c/shaft have to be lapped togather with lapping compound(a paste from tube or jar made from lube and diamond dust,avalible from auto supply store/machine shop supply stores,MOSTLY used for getting a good sealing surface between the valve seal angles and cylinder head seats).surfaces need to LAPPED,without key,by turning and pressing down and spinning flywheel with gloved hands. it takes at least 4-5 times with surface cleaning done between new application of compound,diff grits avalible.talk to a tool and die guy/a mech that grinds valves/heads.

  3. #3
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    first ...most think the flywheel key holds the flywheel..the taper holds everything.....both surfaces must be good....and nut must be tight....anything less = problems

  4. #4
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    use impact after lapping as described above
    In reference to the Hydrostream Power Tour:

    Quote Originally Posted by Scream And Fly View Post
    This is seriously one of the best threads on this site ever.



  5. #5
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    I forget what the torque is supposed to be on that nut, but you will never get near tight enough holding the flywheel by hand.... and don't use an impact wrench because the shock will weaken the magnets. Get a flywheel holder/turner from you local auto parts store and borrow a torque wrench... I think it's supposed to be something like 150 ft/lbs of torque

    oh, and do as the guys here say and lap it first........
    Last edited by flabum1017; 08-01-2015 at 11:55 AM.
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  6. #6
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    I didnt think of the impact pounding the magnets and ive got a torque wrench. Guess ill get a holder and go that route.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keebibear View Post
    I didnt think of the impact pounding the magnets and ive got a torque wrench. Guess ill get a holder and go that route.
    I don't have my manual here, but call a dealer to find the correct torque....
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  8. #8
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    just let me add:if there are pieces of metal "above" the flat but tapered angle of the crank OR inside of flyeheel mating surface,these need to be taken down so they will not make a concentric grove around the tapers.hope I'm xplaning myself correctly,shoulda been in earlier entry.after surfaces corrected --then nut gets tightened with about a 30" breaker bar,flywheel held as suggested above.good luck-th

  9. #9
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    are you installing the key in the vertical line or on an angle with the taper?

  10. #10
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    I pulled the flywheel today to clean it up. The nut that was tight with a full thread showing i took off with no effort at all. Ive ordered a new key and will get some lapping compound tomorrow and lookmsome more for a flywheel holder. Nothing at harbor freight, pep boys or the oreillys i tried. May just make one. I did find torque specs on line at 90 lbs which seems low but that what ill set it at.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Keebibear View Post
    I pulled the flywheel today to clean it up. The nut that was tight with a full thread showing i took off with no effort at all. Ive ordered a new key and will get some lapping compound tomorrow and lookmsome more for a flywheel holder. Nothing at harbor freight, pep boys or the oreillys i tried. May just make one. I did find torque specs on line at 90 lbs which seems low but that what ill set it at.
    snapon have the tool

  12. #12
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    After you get it all clean apply a very small amount of red loctite to the taper. Torque to 150 pounds. The 83-85 Gt/XP versions of the 235 called for this procedure. We started doing this on ocean race boats in 1980 and it stopped the flywheels from moving.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by racer View Post
    After you get it all clean apply a very small amount of red loctite to the taper. Torque to 150 pounds. The 83-85 Gt/XP versions of the 235 called for this procedure. We started doing this on ocean race boats in 1980 and it stopped the flywheels from moving.
    I Forgot about the loctite on the older ones.................
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  14. #14
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    Make sure you only use a factory key, too.

  15. #15
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    Red loctight? How easy does it come apart if i need the flywheel off again? I just had to cut the last one off and a bit concerned on using red.

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