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  1. #1
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    Trailer disc brake issue

    I'm converting my drum brakes on a 1990s Load Rite trailer to Tie Down stainless disc. The caliper is flush with the lug plate which leaves mininum clearance between the rim and the caliper and since they are floating calipers there is slight contact. Has anyone else ran in to this situation? On my 2003 trailer with disc brakes theres plenty of clearance. Has anyone else ran in to this? I've tried 2 different rims. Only solution i see would be to put washers between the rim and the lug plate, but this sounds like a bad idea.

  2. #2
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    I would not use washers but there are spacer plates designed for this task. Do a search for wheel spacers and select the thickness and bolt circle you need, there are plenty of choices out there.
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  3. #3
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    thanks auto zone has them. I look at the Tie Down galvanized disc brakes and they show clearance as do other manufacturers. Also on one of them the lug bolt is slightly crooked or not seated correctly which gives the rotor a very slight wobble. Tie down said they would replace it but I was thinking i should just try and replace the lug and see if it flattens it out

  4. #4
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    If a lug is going to straighten up it would do so when torquing the nuts in a wheel. The tapered seat will guide the lug to where is should be and the spline on the lug allows some movement.
    It is possible though that there is a buildup in the hole in the hub from the splines cutting their path that will be an issue.
    Not having seen the issue first hand if you can take the down time it is best to replace the hub unit since it is new.
    Otherwise at least push the stud back out and draw it in with a tapered wheelnut with a rim in place. Steel rims are thin enough you should be able to engage the lug early enough to properly guide it.
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  5. #5
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    Probably a little late but if you're in salt water the Kodiak stainless steel brakes are much better. At least check the backing pads on the tie down pads. Probably plain steel and will rust/expand freezing your brakes or worse.
    13' Biel tunnel AKA "Flight Risk"
    13" Modified Yamaha V4 - 101 mph

    21' Paramount
    Mercury 300 Promax

  6. #6
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    A friend of mine in Naples was surprised how fast the pad backers rusted away. he is happy with the stainless pads now.
    Regards,
    Charlie North
    If it ain't broke, modify it.
    80 21' Superboat with Yamaha 225 Excel power
    76 Glastron to be powered by a 6.2 L92 with surface drive
    87 Glastron CVX20 Hull

  7. #7
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    I couldn't go with wheel spacers because the lugs aren't long enough and I would have had fender rub.
    Well Eastern marine switched them for the galvanized once I showed them the issue of no clearance between the caliper and where the rim mounts.
    They are a great store and customer service.

    Now that it's all done I wish I went with Kodiak. I probably will have to in a few years.
    Thanks everyone

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