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Thread: Transom/jackplate bolts?
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05-26-2015, 09:21 PM #1
Transom/jackplate bolts?
What's the standard-issue recommendation for mounting bolts? Type/grade? Diameter/thread pitch? I will be replacing my L&S hydraulic with a Rapid Jack manual, so I will need some new bolts and nylock nuts to replace the studs in the old plate. Links are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
'89 Hydrostream Vegas XT, '90 Merc 2.4 Bridgeport PCU EFI
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05-26-2015, 09:33 PM #2
Cheapest way you're going to get the right **** is from Merc. 1/2" Fine thread SS bolts, washers, and bronze locknuts.
10-67755A22 BOLT KIT, Transom (2.50 Inch)
10-67755A26 BOLT KIT, Transom (3.50 Inch)
10-67755A13 BOLT KIT, Transom (4.50 Inch)
10-67755A14 BOLT KIT, Transom (5.50 Inch)
10-67755A15 BOLT KIT, Transom (6.50 Inch)
10-67755A17 BOLT KIT, Transom (7.50 Inch)
10-67755A18 BOLT KIT, Transom (8.00 Inches)
I believe the kits are all in quantities of 4. 4 bolts, wide washers, narrow washers, and nuts. The washers themselves are also thicker than normal hardware.Last edited by 1BadAction; 05-26-2015 at 09:36 PM.
> Stainless steel Merc cowling plates - $110 shipped TYD - LINK <
1979 16' Action Marine/2.5L Merc S3000 - Metalflake Maniac
1984 18' Contender Tunnel/2.4 Merc Bridgeport
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05-26-2015, 09:44 PM #3
If you do not use brass nuts , make sure you put some lube on the stainless nuts, nyloks, as it will gaul without it. I use a White thread sealer with PTFE, works great.
Steve1993 Cougar 21ft MTR Superbender SHO
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05-26-2015, 11:27 PM #4
1badaction nailed it, use the merc stuff. Heavy duty hardware along with brass nuts.
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05-27-2015, 12:45 AM #5Screaming And Flying!
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those nuts are not brass, they are bronze, or they should be, brass is crap
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05-27-2015, 05:52 AM #6
a "touch" of anti-seize on stainless bolts ALWAYS works out in tha long run......
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05-27-2015, 08:53 AM #7
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05-27-2015, 01:25 PM #8Screaming And Flying!
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All good info, proving advice.. I use 1/2"x20 stainless with stainless nyloks but I use anti-seize.. I put the nut in the inside of the transom in case I need to ever re-torque, I won't lose my water tight seal long as I keep the bolt from turning.. I have used grade8 fasteners but I sure wouldn't recommend it in salt..
And don't over torque, use big thick washersKevin Kiser
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05-27-2015, 04:47 PM #9
I bought all new stainless steel bolts, nuts and washers when I re-powered my boat. I then learned that stainless steel hardware was grade 5, shortly before bolting everything up I saw a couple videos of engines coming loose from the transom due to broken bolts or nuts coming loose. I chose to buy everything in grade 8 since I am not in saltwater and used anti-seize liberally when bolting everything up and again whenever I changed jackplates or added wedges etc.. I am sure some folks do theirs differently but after seeing those engines flopping around the boats with props spinning, I knew real quick I didn't want that thing in the boat with me.
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05-27-2015, 05:36 PM #10Screaming And Flying!
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I thought those OMC V8 bolts are equivalent to grade 8 steel?
Last edited by powerabout; 05-27-2015 at 05:59 PM.
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05-27-2015, 05:45 PM #11
From memory it's 60ft/lbs torque
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05-27-2015, 05:58 PM #12
No anti size in salt water JMO
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05-27-2015, 06:45 PM #13
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05-27-2015, 08:24 PM #14
Awesome. I will see what lengths I need, and order the Mercury kit.
Currently, there are NOT any washers on the motor side at all, just nylock nuts.'89 Hydrostream Vegas XT, '90 Merc 2.4 Bridgeport PCU EFI
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05-27-2015, 08:50 PM #15Screaming And Flying!
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I wonder if 400 verado uses the same bolts?