Water flow through poppet valve

[Todd98SE]

Now I'm confused. Should I not have it plumbed this way?

[Todd98SE]

With the current plumbing I have "design 2". The original setup was "design 3", and by adding the hose from top of block to poppet cover I'd have "design 1", correct?

[Todd98SE]

In the end I'm just trying to increase flow through the heads to get the motor to run cooler at WOT.

[transomstand]

With the current plumbing I have "design 2". The original setup was "design 3", and by adding the hose from top of block to poppet cover I'd have "design 1", correct?

No, it's not that simple.

[transomstand]

Again my apologies. I thought this might be a quick routine fix when I responded but it may take a good deal of time to get to the bottom of the heating cause. Unfortunately over the next few days I'm buried in an estate sale, moving furniture, meeting with contractors, crying over the loss of my boat workshop, and murdering a neighbor (hopefully without getting caught) so I won't be able to put much time into this for you. Hopefully one of our other "cooling guys" can help you get this squared away.

[Todd98SE]

Thank you very much for your assistance transomstand. I'll remove the plug and run the original configuration on my river trip next week.

[tlwjkw]

you need ta put tha thing back ta completely "stock" parts.. water pump assy., t-stats and poppet assy. if it won't act right, then ya start lookin' for tha problem... not chanhin'/modifin' stuff..........jmo

[Todd98SE]

you need ta put tha thing back ta completely "stock" parts.. water pump assy., t-stats and poppet assy. if it won't act right, then ya start lookin' for tha problem... not chanhin'/modifin' stuff..........jmo

Thats what I started with. Completely stock with all new parts and still had the WOT overheating problem. That's why I started looking for ways to increase flow through the heads.

[tlwjkw]

Completely stock with all new parts and still had the WOT overheating problem. .

is this by gauge or warnin' buzzer?

[Todd98SE]

Brand new gauge and sender. 135 degree head temp is smack dab in the middle of the gauge per my laser thermometer

[tlwjkw]

so what was tha over heat temp?

[Todd98SE]

Not sure. I wasn't able to take a head temp while the temp gauge was pegged out. I can take reading at the "C", 2nd, and middle hash marks and then extrapolate what the temp should be at "H" assuming the sender is linear. The overheat alarm did not go off but I've never heard it so I don't know if it works or not

[tlwjkw]

ya need ta make sure tha over heat sensor is workin'... ya need a sound and/or visiual light 'cause ya might not be "lookin'" at tha gauge often/long enough ta catch it.. never trust a store bought gauge readin' hi "metal" temp as only source.. why tha 120's and not tha 143's?

[Todd98SE]

I suppose I can pull the overheat alarm sensor and heat it up in a pot of water with a good thermometer and see what temp it goes off at.

Im using 120's because I primarily boat in extremely warm water, the lower Colorado during the summer. Water can get to the 80's.

[tlwjkw]

99% of tha time if ya jus ground it at tha term on tha motor with tha key on and buzzer sounds its good.. ta really get down to tha real testing takes an old head and a "rose bud" with temp gun.........