Project: Liberator Gets A New Transom

[Liberator*21]

Well here we go....All dressed up in a Haz-Mat full body suit and 3M Full Face Respirator....What a mess and lots of issues found during the tear out.

First, there was definitely water rotted ply:







Second, noticed that the plywood was not even bonded to the top cap section of the fiberglass transom:







Third, the plywood that was there had a gap (no bond) between the fiberglass and the ply as seen here where the silicone got between the fiberglass and plywood gap.



Very disappointed in the build of this boat, must have been a Friday or Holiday weekend build. The gap shown with no bond allowed the hull to flex in that area there by opening up the split line between the cap & hull allowing water in.

Gotta start hitting it with a grinder next to smooth it all out for the new "COOSA BOARD" replacement transom...........

For those "NEWBIE'S" like me who've never done this before, IT'S NOT A WALK IN THE PARK...

[Spinelli Propellers]

What year is that liberator?

[Liberator*21]

What year is that liberator?

2001/21' Liberator

[Liberator*21]

Alright, I've got 2 eight hour days in this project and was handed a major set back yesterday. Some one had applied a massive amount of what appears to be 3M 5200 (or equiv) under the support board for the fuel tank (that I had already cut out just leaving the boards on the tunnel tops)..........................

6hrs alone yesterday just to get this stuff off the tunnel tops to ensure a clean bond able surface for the new knee's.............

[mrcrsr]

that doesn't look like alot of fun gary! at least you only have to do it once. there is a guy redoing a rotten liberator in the fiberglass forum as well.

[Spinelli Propellers]

sounds like an epidemic.... Marine plywood?

[Liberator*21]

that doesn't look like alot of fun gary! at least you only have to do it once. there is a guy redoing a rotten liberator in the fiberglass forum as well.

Yeah Charlie it pretty much SUCKS !!!! This is right up there in the fun department with getting your hemorids removed....

sounds like an epidemic.... Marine plywood?

It's hard to tell what kind of ply it is due to its rotting condition. Could have been as cheap as plain old treated plywood for all I know. All I do know is that unless there have been some major changes at Liberator Boats, I don't think I'd be buying a new Liberator based on this.

[1BadAction]

Its hard to tell because its partially rotten, but I can see what looks like some filled voids, and the plys themselves look pretty thick, so it is probably plain jane exterior ply. Least thats what it looks like to me, and I've dug my fair share of that **** out of rotten boats.

Don't feel bad about the build quality, seems that most "production" boats are built similarly. At least their glass layup is decent quality and without a core, unlike some of the other builds you see on here. I'm doing the transom and floor in a Contender tunnel right now (another Texas boat) and it's pretty much the same way. Unsealed exterior ply everywhere and screws in wood from the factory, unsealed.

You should look into an oscillating multi tool, I had my entire 8'x30" of floor stripped out and ready to hit with the sander in about an hour, no dust. They rip.

[specboatops]

Gary, did you buy that new or used ? Sorry to see this mess your going through!!

Chris

[Liberator*21]

Its hard to tell because its partially rotten, but I can see what looks like some filled voids, and the plys themselves look pretty thick, so it is probably plain jane exterior ply. Least thats what it looks like to me, and I've dug my fair share of that **** out of rotten boats.

Don't feel bad about the build quality, seems that most "production" boats are built similarly. At least their glass layup is decent quality and without a core, unlike some of the other builds you see on here. I'm doing the transom and floor in a Contender tunnel right now (another Texas boat) and it's pretty much the same way. Unsealed exterior ply everywhere and screws in wood from the factory, unsealed.

You should look into an oscillating multi tool, I had my entire 8'x30" of floor stripped out and ready to hit with the sander in about an hour, no dust. They rip.

The saving grace was....rotten wood comes out pretty eazy....:-)

Gary, did you buy that new or used ? Sorry to see this mess your going through!!

Hey Chris how ya been buddy.
I believe I'm owner number 4.

Chris

[karman 2]

Hi Gary, sorry to hear. Before I got my 21, I talked to several guys that got the "light lay up", in hopes of more MPH. They all cracked at the knees. I had Dave get me a heavy lay up with capacity of holding twins. No problems so far, but its heavier. Keith

[JPEROG]

Randy has forced Dave to make changes or he was done dealing with it. When you get a builder that's in it only for the bottom line and not a passionate boater or racer then this is the typical result. I have seen a lot of plywood pulled from them (not marine grade). Randy built his new personal 25 with composite core and it ended up over 500 lbs lighter then others that he has weighed and its much stronger. Gary this is a good opportunity to for weight loss and added strength while its gutted.

Joe

[Liberator*21]

Hi Gary, sorry to hear. Before I got my 21, I talked to several guys that got the "light lay up", in hopes of more MPH. They all cracked at the knees. I had Dave get me a heavy lay up with capacity of holding twins. No problems so far, but its heavier. Keith

Keith,
Funny you mentioned the knees, they too had issues. Not really sure why you'd make the knees from 2 pieces, one piece of plywood vertical and then another piece of horizontal wood which was a wooden board, not even plywood. I hope your is good to go for as long as you own it, I wouldn't wish this job on anybody............well maybe Obama or Hillery........

Randy has forced Dave to make changes or he was done dealing with it. When you get a builder that's in it only for the bottom line and not a passionate boater or racer then this is the typical result. I have seen a lot of plywood pulled from them (not marine grade). Randy built his new personal 25 with composite core and it ended up over 500 lbs lighter then others that he has weighed and its much stronger. Gary this is a good opportunity to for weight loss and added strength while its gutted.

Joe

Joe,

My replacement transom material of choice is 2" thick COOSA BLUEWATER SERIES 24 BOARD, I was very surprise as to how lite weight it was, compared to the wet wood I've pull out, there's some weight savings right there. This is the transom material that Triton Boats now uses in there builds. I did have second thoughts (for a day or two) when they told me it was $989.00 for a 4' x 8' sheet, but I plan on keeping the boat for awhile and if nothing else, the new owner when I decide to sell will never have the transom to ever worry about, great resale value too. The knees I'll be putting back in will be "ONE PIECE" 3/4" Marine Ply and allot longer (fwd to aft) than the knees I took out, they'll look almost triangular nesting the mod'd fuel tank in between. Progress pics will be forth coming as I go.

[1BadAction]

The saving grace was....rotten wood comes out pretty eazy....:-)

Yep, thats what I always tell myself.

[Liberator*21]

Update as to progress made thus far, inside hull completely stripped down to 100% fiberglass:

Before:




After:





Template made for new Coosa Board Bluewater 24 Transom:





The new Transom is cut and ready to install next week:




This has been quite an experience and one hell'va nasty job........... would I ever do it again..........probably not, specially at my age. I've got aches and pain where I never thought possible... Special thanks go out to VW-NUT who's been teaching and helping me learn along the way.

Next:
Prep Coosa Board w/resin and glass
Install in the boat
Start step tabbing everything down
Refinish the transom exterior/re-Gel Coat
Finish my rewiring job
Get it wet.........................