Transom holes oblong

[old ranger]

I have a 1980 Ranger 275V with a 1980 175. I am replacing the steering so I had to pull the motor off the transom. The mounting bolts were bent, and the holes in the transom a little oblong on the motor side, like it has sagged down. I have checked the wood and it seems good, not rotten. I have drilled a few holes down low and remove some screws and everything seems dry. Any ideas on repairing the oblong holes? I was thinking on opening up the holes, sealing it all up with git-rot, inserting a stainless steel sleeves and then marine-Tex the lower part of the hole where its oblong. then sealing it all up with 3M 5200.

I haven't been on this board for a while, but there is a wealth of knowledge here. thanks in advance for any replies.

[97 TWISTER]

Not sure what git-rot is but I had it happen to one of my boats I mixed up crushed glass, cabosil, resin then filled holes and redrilled and put jack plate on with 5200. Its been 3yrs with no issues but the 5200 could almost hold it by itself.

[baja200merk]

I just did this to a 99 ranger yesterday. I taped up the holes mixed up some west system epoxy with adhesive filler to thicken it. Then I used a small syringe to inject it into the holes until they were full. Let it set up grind it flat and re-drill holes

[old ranger]

Thanks for the replies. Got Rot is a penetrating Epoxy to seal with wood. Its mashed up, torn up a little at the bottom of the hole where its oblong. I was thinking of making a sleeve with a washer machine on the end. kinda like a flange bushing and filling in around them. Is it not good to use a bushing? I was just trying not to lose the hole pattern. The aluminum transom pad is kinda broke off on one side... may be why it sagged more on that side.

[97 TWISTER]

I thought about the sleeve/bushing thing when I was doing mine but I was concerned that when I tightened the bolts it wouldn't allow the transom to squish, if that makes any sense and I may be over thinking it.
Like Baja200merc said mix up whatever you use thick tape up one side pack it full and your done in about 15min. I just used a bondo spreader to pack it in and you will be able to see old holes so redrilling should be straight forward. But use the old adage measure twice cut/drill once or in my case measure 3 or 4 times lol.

[transomstand]

The aluminum transom pad is kinda broke off on one side... may be why it sagged more on that side.

Is that like being "kinda pregnant"?

[frederick55]

Is that like being "kinda pregnant"?

Yeah, except you don't need to re-drill.

[Carter Powell]

Putting stainless steel sleeves in the transom is the best choice you can make. I have done this many times on boats of mine. If you can get hold of a transom drill jig it will be super easy. Just have stainless sleeves mad up that are about 1/8" wall thickness. Now just drill out the old holes to the size of the new inserts and use a thickened epoxy to set them in place while using the drill jig with bolts thru the jig to hold the sleeves in alignment and let it cure. You will have a non crush proof transom and bolts will not loosen after this is done.

Best wishes, Carter

[Smoking Joe]

Putting stainless steel sleeves in the transom is the best choice you can make. I have done this many times on boats of mine. If you can get hold of a transom drill jig it will be super easy. Just have stainless sleeves mad up that are about 1/8" wall thickness. Now just drill out the old holes to the size of the new inserts and use a thickened epoxy to set them in place while using the drill jig with bolts thru the jig to hold the sleeves in alignment and let it cure. You will have a non crush proof transom and bolts will not loosen after this is done.

Best wishes, Carter

That is pretty much how we do it however we use glass or carbon fibre tubes instead of the stainless steel. Before inserting the tube we counter sink each end of the hole. This gives an improved glue line around the tube and also aids in getting the glue around the tube till it starts to come out the other end. This is the very best way you can seal the transom and prevent transom crush.

[panther150]

pm sent

[olboatman]

I use SS sleaves set in West Six-10 thickened epoxy as it is easy to inject with the caulking tube nozzle. I use the Six-10 almost every day at work for torn out door stops and hardware at the dorms I do work at. Gary

[aggiestckl]

So how do you get as sleeve tight enough so the I.d. of sleeve is close enough to the o.d. of the bolt? Also what about thickness of sleeve do you get it slightly less thick than thickness of transom so you can cover with glass? Is six-10 good enough for this? Can I use six 10 with something else?

[old ranger]

First off I have access to a lathe. I made a bushing 1/2" od with 1/4" id. The 1/2" fit tight in enough of the hole to not lose the hole location. I used it for a guide for a 3/4" holesaw. I tested several holesaws and found one that cut right at .753". I used the holesaw and the bushing/guide and drilled the 4 holes out. The 3/4" od cut away almost all the oblong! I'm machining bushings 3/4" od with 1/2" id with a 1-1/2"" X 3/16" thick washer on one end. I the transom is just a little over 2" thick so im going to make the bushing 2-1/8" and trim them to fit may .020-.030 less than the thickness of the transom as I install them. So far so good. I want to get this done so I can hook up my new steering and get on the water.

[MattGreen]

Baja's approach works just fine provided that you use a high-strength epoxy thickener like cabosil or milled glass fibers. Don't try this with microspheres or phenolic microballoons. The WEST 610 injection tubes are even easier. The stainless sleeves are a nice idea but overkill for most boats. Keep in mind the thickened epoxy is considerably stronger and resists compression better than the original wooden core of the transom.

Matt

I just did this to a 99 ranger yesterday. I taped up the holes mixed up some west system epoxy with adhesive filler to thicken it. Then I used a small syringe to inject it into the holes until they were full. Let it set up grind it flat and re-drill holes

[Smoking Joe]

The reason we use glass tubes or carbon fibre tubes is that we cut them over length and when all dry and done just remove excess length, run the grinder over them and sand flush, this is very easy and quick compared with Stainless Steel tube. With the stainless Steel tube you will need to get the tube length and positioning exactly right as you will damage the glue with excess heat if grinding Stainless Steel in situ. Also I have access to any amounts of tube which helps. As Matt says, epoxy resin with appropriate thickening additive is considerably stronger and resists compression better than the original timber core. Add the strength of the tube and you will never have to revisit it again. Done properly this will never let moisture into the timber core. We also use this method for bilge stringer drains, infact any penetration which has a timber core.