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  1. #16
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    Ok after much delay I am back at it. Block is back from the shop and I am looking for a rebuild kit. TSM performance looks to be the only place offering rod bolts and main bearings. Any thoughts? Not sure if they are cast or forged pistons have an email in to find out. I had a great pictorial reference of the teardown of this motor but it is now at the bottom of the lake locked up in a phone I apparently didn't need any more. any body got a step by step assembly guide? I have the clymer but it leaves a bit to be desired. Is there anything I should look out for in parts or assembly tips tricks? rkmirage do these kits come with steel cage rod bearings and wrist pin bearings? Thanks for all the previous help.

  2. #17
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    Wentzville.MO 40 "miles west of St Louis"
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    If your still on a tight budget. Its perfectly fine to reuse the old bearings if they look good.
    Go to ebay and get a SERVICE manual to put it all back together correctly. Loads more info than a clymer book

  3. #18
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    To what extent are you rebuilding? What do you think caused the problem in the first place?


    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

  4. #19
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    My initial thinking was that because it sat several months with fuel in tanks that maybe I picked up some water. Hard to start at the ramp warmed up and ran to first spot 1mi or so up river heard a change in rpms idled to jetties fished wouldn't start after that. Oiler is intact and appeared mechanically intact when I tore it apart. Think I should do away with that? Not sure what else would cause the meltdown. What could do that? On the matter of extent machine shop shot 2 holes .030 and the others are .020 I believe we spoke that that should not cause major issues. Thoughts? From there rebuild kit has crank and rod bearings etc. What else needs to be done ?

  5. #20
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    Pm your phone # and a convenient time for me to call. I may have some decent used stuff if you're still in collage and on a budget..

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

  6. #21
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    I stuck a ring in my 2.4 a couple years ago, the cause seemed to be excess carbon, at first it would run but had a miss to it. Tried everything electrical, different stator trigger ect. New fuel pump, other parts. Nothing worked. Fed up, I tore it down and discovered the no. 3 hole had a stuck ring and a few chunks of aluminum off the piston. This is a chrome bore motor with 1 steel sleeve in no. 6. I ordered a set of rings and seals , new bearings for the 1 rod {no. 3} and new gaskets off sleazebay. I didnt know at first that no.6 had a steel sleeve it looked different so I checked it with a magnet, lucky I found it the rings are different from a chrome bore. The rings and seals, bearings were from pro marine. I rebuilt with info on here from T rex and a CLYMER manual. Never did a 200 before. I even ported the pistons for a little extra power. Elcheapo rebuild. Used a hose clamp for a ring compressor. Made a wood jig from a 2/4 to put the piston in and knock the wrist pin out. I lucked out the walls of the block did not need machining. I drilled out the jets in the carbs. Anyway I put it back together and Ive run it several times and it runs fine. Would I recomend doing things this way, no. I torqued everything properly and polished the crank journals and other critical parts. So far seems to run fine. Let the blasting begin for doing things this way.
    Last edited by daytrader; 08-30-2017 at 11:06 AM.
    garybvd

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  8. #22
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    Budget isn't "such" an issue anymore. I plan to buy a rebuild kit. The TMS prof kit includes main bearings and new rod bolts still nor sure if the Pistons are cast or forged. From what I can read cast is what I want? Any body have thoughts on the oil sys don't think it caused the problem but is it better to just do away with and mix. The posts on this are mixed. Daytrader tell me about these proforma mods?

  9. #23
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    Look up T rexs cherry 2.4 rebuild in the archive, it applies to 2.4 motors so I dont know how much would apply to a 2.0. If your just going fishing, leave it stock. Its funny years ago I had a friend that raced kneel down hydros. His main job was working on outboards and he was pretty good at it. He didnt like pennzoil 2 stroke oil. He said when he tore apart engines that ran pennzoil there was always tons of carbon. Now this is before synthetic oils were common. I ran penzoil syn blend in mine, its first rebuild was done by Gene Treichle of Merc hi Perf fame. But when I tore it down it had alot of carbon in it. I should have ran a cleaning agent thru it more often. Live and learn I guess. My motor is basically an abortion motor now. My present flywheel is from an early v6. My starter is from an early inline 6, 10 tooth gear., because the 8 tooth starters {wich is what it calls for} would beat up the teeth in the ring gear. Teeth mesh and work fine now. Ive got shaved heads, wh 22 carbs, short tuner, no can, exhaust releived, Carson reeds, no air box and louvered cowl, ported pistons. 5 chrome bores and 1 steel sleeve. 9 amp stator. I would stick to advice from guys like Rock that know the right way to do things.
    garybvd

  10. #24
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    Thanks for the 2.4 info. I don't want to hop it up to much but I'm not afraid to do a little grinding or polishing if it helps. Rock seems to have the know how.

  11. #25
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    Good bang for the buck is to cut the heads
    garybvd

  12. #26
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    This increases compresion? What is needed a milling machine? And of course sombody to run it.

  13. #27
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    looking at service manuals on ebay. Found one marked 5464485 and below it says 1984 on description but I think its for older motors. Does anybody have any idea which manual I need or have one on hand?
    Mine is serial #a183475 1985 2L 150

  14. #28
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    So I ordered Service manual 90-97658-3 from ebay for serial number 5464486 and up. This should do for my 1985 mariner 150. The price of these is much less reasonable than most of the other black or grey service manuals. Any body think of a good reason why? Clearing off some bench space to lay out and clean up parts. Any suggestions for cleaning/organizing? TSM Performance says the can sell the two piston sizes in one kit. "Our pistons are a hyper uetetic cast alloy with a MSO2 coating to aid in break in." Best I can tell this is a good thing is this what I should go with?

  15. #29
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    SVC manual arrived as a photo copy of just the electrical portion section 2 I believe. Thats sleaze bay for you. I should file a comp with the bay but I think the guy just took an Irma judging by the address on the envelope. I ordered a brand new book from another place d@m& that hurt. Cleaned some parts with Super Clean Its some good stuff. Is the rattle can of Merc grey ok to paint the powerhead with?

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