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  1. #31
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    Milkdud.....THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR FIXING THE PICS FOR ME

  2. #32
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20150123_132144.jpg 
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ID:	313574 this is unfinished. I still need to epoxy coat it and paint it. As you can see, the load is spread entirely across the transom

  3. #33
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    Cool, opens up the back of the boat a lot. Might consider a couple knee braces . I realize its not done yet but looks nice. I may try this to a I/O boat around here someday. Not a lot of Outboard family cruisers in the 19-21 foot range here. Nearly zero. And I don't like car motors.
    L6fan57-88

  4. #34
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    Very interested in this set up as well.
    Make sure you rebalance your trailer.
    I've done the same pod setup on an old 26' cape island style fishing hull. Someone had pieced together a 120 Merc I/O so bad that the cost to the owner to repair all the deficiencies made it cost prohibitive. We used an Armstrong bracket, and installed a 130 Etec. Owner was very pleased with the performance and fuel economy.
    Always wondered about doing what you have done to a planing hull.

    pointer

  5. #35
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    How much HP did the inboard motor have for this model? I would think an outboard could be more efficient if set up well....?
    L6fan57-88

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by milkdud View Post
    Cool, opens up the back of the boat a lot. Might consider a couple knee braces . I realize its not done yet but looks nice. I may try this to a I/O boat around here someday. Not a lot of Outboard family cruisers in the 19-21 foot range here. Nearly zero. And I don't like car motors.
    initially I was gonna do all that....knee braces and glass in the wood to the sides of the boat. BUT the transom, the entire boat, is very solid. I realize that it wasnt intended to have an OB hangin off the back like that but I did make sure to spread out the load both inside and outside of the transom. It is a very thick transom too. Im gonna keep an eye on it regardless. If I see any stress cracks, Ill then repair and reinforce it with glass but I truly think it can handle it. We'll see.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by milkdud View Post
    How much HP did the inboard motor have for this model? I would think an outboard could be more efficient if set up well....?
    It had a GM 4CYL, 130hp setup. It was submerged and I hate I/O. Was raised on OB's lol. I got the boat for $500, so it's worth it to me to see how it does. Should be pretty fun.

  8. #38
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    id start with a 20" motor and set the prop shaft 2.5" below the bottom to start High cnter of gravity is a killer

    4-16-2014. 25 years old today... the fishin boat doesnt look to bad for a classic does she


    things that were are no longer as they are today...

  9. #39
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    Interesting. What was the outboard version rated at? Probably around 135 ish?

  10. #40
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    Should run nice. Getting up on the bottom strake may be the only issue. Iirc they like to rock a little when out that much.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssv1761982 View Post
    Interesting. What was the outboard version rated at? Probably around 135 ish?
    115 lol

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motv18 View Post
    Getting up on the bottom strake may be the only issue. they like to rock a little when out that much.
    Therein lies the problem. My guess is that hull is one of ole Mel Whitleys SSV (Super Stable Vee) designs. Good for alotta things but ain't got no "pad" to balance on once aired out. I bet it'll chine walk too.
    '71 Glastron V153 - Composite rebuild - Unceremoniously wrecked
    '81 Baja 15 SS - "nine-paged" '77 140
    '81 Carlson C500 Metric - Currently in foster care
    '70 something Speedcraft - Allison 16R clone - Undergoing restoration
    '79 Carlson CVZ 19 - Far back burner
    WALK TALL AND CARRY A BIG BILGE PUMP

  13. #43
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    Ive put a 225 x on a boat that had a mercruiser in it .had to add 2 sets of transom wedges to make it take off good and get up on plane.I think you'll find the transom. Doesn't have enought tilt back.with the deep v hull I also had to add a 5" extension kit.
    .
    If you ain't livin on the edge,....Your Takin' Up Too Much Space!
    Black Warrior Mafia

  14. #44
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    Once you get it set up and running you would probably find the nicest addition to be trim tabs with a trim leveling computer. Mount it behind the dash or in the glove box , anywhere you can find or make a flat surface.wr added one to our project and several of us ran together back and forth port to stbd.you can't even trick it.not very expensive and a pleasure while driving.
    If you ain't livin on the edge,....Your Takin' Up Too Much Space!
    Black Warrior Mafia

  15. #45
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    I have done a few of these bracket conversions to shorter hulls. mainly seacraft hulls that don't go over 60mph. A 23' plus hull dose well with the addition of a bracket. It gets the props in clean water and will pick up a mph or 2 and better fuel economy by 5% or so. The further you go back the worse it hurts the balance of the hull unless you move weight forward. I done a few 20' hulls and that is about the smallest hull I would do a 20" plus bracket on, Last one I done was 22" back and I moved much weight forward and still had a tendency to want to porpoise a little. With out two people standing forward at the helm and the gas tank slid as far forward as possible it would ride much better. Shift you tank to the front and anything else that you can and add weight ballast weight in the nose if you need it to help it ride right. You can get it to behave but it probably will take 100 plus lbs in the nose to make the nose stay down. Trim tabs are a must in this case and will help but the better you can get your balance and CG right and centered the better she will ride.
    Last edited by Seacraft20; 02-09-2015 at 08:48 AM.

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