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01-03-2015, 11:58 PM #1
Hydrostream Transom and Engine Well
I will be starting on a Hydrostream Virage rebuild this Spring and want to do some homework before I begin. I will need to take the top off the boat to fully inspect each sponson and center core for wetness. The process I would like to understand is how to split the transom from the top deck. It seems like it's the only part of the deck that is not simply screwed to the bottom. Also, I would like to know once the engine well is cut out, how do I build a replacement flat well without adding too much unnecessary work and weight? I will be adding transom knees for support. I have fiber glassing and woodworking experience already. Thanks
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01-04-2015, 09:37 AM #2
Contact Scott (last hst) on here. He has a virage and he split his. His work is outstanding. Post your progress over on the Power Tour thread and I promise there will be plenty of help for you http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-Tour-Season-7
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hydrostreamvking4m liked this post
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01-04-2015, 10:11 AM #3
Virages are easy to split . De rig the boat . Pull rub rail . Under the bow is a bow support board that has to be cut off. along with both side of the cockpit down by the floor the top cap is screwed to strips glassed to the floor . My transom knees support the splash well delet cap.
1990 hydrostream virage diamondpower280
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01-04-2015, 11:15 AM #4
So you are saying if you cut the well out then it's easy to remove from the transom area? And what did you use to rebuild the flat well? Seems like there would be a lot of body filler involved if you didn't have a flat board?
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01-06-2015, 03:15 PM #5
Here ya go...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7e9BRK6UfsQ
I beveled the top edge of the transom plywood so I could get fiberglass in deeper
Ron Pratt
'91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
26' Grady White "fish getter"
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01-06-2015, 03:28 PM #6
Splashwell delete.
You can see in the first & second pict that the beveled transom wood will allow a ton of fiberglass to be placed in the joint.
I am going with a 15" motor and wanted a dropped section. Partical board and sheet rock mud made a mold.
I had my hull on a roteisserie so I flipped it over.
This is Aaron's Stealth Virage with the same design.
Ron Pratt
'91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
26' Grady White "fish getter"
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01-06-2015, 08:48 PM #7
Looks like you did a pretty good job, I've seen some of those pictures posted in other threads. How did the top look after pulling the mold? Did you still need to sand to make it look like one continuous piece?
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01-07-2015, 01:54 PM #8
That's it in the pict above the black Virage. Just a skim coat of fiberglass putty (tinted) faired it out. I will be re-gelcoating that area in a couple weeks.
Ron Pratt
'91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
26' Grady White "fish getter"
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01-07-2015, 03:01 PM #9
OK So you did need to use some body filler, but you will spray matching gelcoat over everything
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01-07-2015, 03:36 PM #10
Yes, I will mask it off at the edge where it drops into the main rear deck area which includes the little drop down section.
I balsa cored the whole area for strength. Aaron used plywood under his rear deck. Alby used Coosa foam I believe.
Ron Pratt
'91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
26' Grady White "fish getter"
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01-07-2015, 04:53 PM #11
Do not load the glass work up with bondo. Use glass and roll all the air out . I used glaze for the small pin holes.. If you never worked with glass just make sure you are neat and tape everything up that you do not want resin on . I used a flat board of cosa for my delet that ties to the top of my knees
1990 hydrostream virage diamondpower280
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01-07-2015, 06:17 PM #12
Yea I plan to make the knees a three way connection- connecting the floor to the transom to the flat splashwell
You guys have been very helpful!
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01-11-2015, 10:29 AM #13(Apricot)
Hydrostream Ventura II/Merc (sold)
(Bruiser Scheme)
Hydrostream Viking/Merc (sold)
(tri color letdown scheme)
Hydrostream Valero/Merc
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01-12-2015, 05:07 PM #14
What type of knee joints should be used? Obviously will be using fiberglass and resin, but I don't just want to lay the wood on the wood. Shouldn't it be "joined" somehow?
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01-12-2015, 06:30 PM #15
Nope. The fiberglass will hold everything together. I radius the inside corners with core bond putty so the glass fibers aren't "creased". Add a few extra layers in the joints staggering the widths and you will be golden.
Ron Pratt
'91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
26' Grady White "fish getter"