Hydrostream Transom and Engine Well

[tunnels]

Ahhh gotcha, I can get them pretty tight though because the tops spread and put pressure on the bottom of the transom

i have raka slow epoxy for the boat

Attachment 381590

Personally I would be using 3 csm glass layers soaking wet with epoxy and clamp so the bottom tightens first and the arms gradually get a slight bend as they you tighten then up ! that way you are forcing the wet glass to move upwards and filling any slight hollows there may happen to be there !! but a few very thin tapered wedges that you can tap in from each side if need be !!
The glass surface of the transom how flat across and up and down is it ?? glass reinforced epoxy resin will be just about indestructible!!!
So step after that what is you intention for the glass lay up over the transom packer ??

[Gmcviper]

Personally I would be using 3 csm glass layers soaking wet with epoxy and clamp so the bottom tightens first and the arms gradually get a slight bend as they you tighten then up ! that way you are forcing the wet glass to move upwards and filling any slight hollows there may happen to be there !! but a few very thin tapered wedges that you can tap in from each side if need be !!
The glass surface of the transom how flat across and up and down is it ?? glass reinforced epoxy resin will be just about indestructible!!!
So step after that what is you intention for the glass lay up over the transom packer ??

I used wedges in the same setup. I ended up screwing a 2x4 across the outside of the clamps and cut blocks that fit with a small gap and put wedges in also. I used a single layer of 1.5 oz mat to stick it to the outer skin. The transom already had 2 layers of 1808 on it.

[Aaronhl]

Ok so here are some updates where I'm at

[tunnels]

Ok so here are some updates where I'm at

very well done !! your well drains fit pipes inside and epoxy in place do what ever has to be done to not let any moisture from any where to get into the wood !!

[pipelayer]

Hey Aaronhl, Nice job on the virage,i was one of the owners of that boat and always wanted to do what you are doing.
And as luck would have it I bought another one and after 2 years with this new one I'm in the same situation I was with that red one.
I'll be following your build till the end because it seems like you have the right people giving advice.
And food for thought my new virage has the tank in the floor and that is the reason for the build because all the core material under the tank is pretty much gone, the rest of the core forward of the tank is fine.
Not sure if one has to do with the other but after a rough day on the great south bay my middle sponson cracked and I was taking on water.I'm gonna try to post some picks of my mess!

[W2F a V-King]

Might be easier and less confusing to those (me) who enjoy reading these rebuild threads to start a new thread just for your boat and it's progress....

[Aaronhl]

Hey Aaronhl, Nice job on the virage,i was one of the owners of that boat and always wanted to do what you are doing.
And as luck would have it I bought another one and after 2 years with this new one I'm in the same situation I was with that red one.
I'll be following your build till the end because it seems like you have the right people giving advice.
And food for thought my new virage has the tank in the floor and that is the reason for the build because all the core material under the tank is pretty much gone, the rest of the core forward of the tank is fine.
Not sure if one has to do with the other but after a rough day on the great south bay my middle sponson cracked and I was taking on water.I'm gonna try to post some picks of my mess!

Awesome!!

As you can see I took all the wet foam out, but most of the boat was completely dry. The two sponsons are in good shape on the inside and the middle V had spiderwebs forward of the front seats. The back core was soaked from about one foot forward of the transom. I replaced just over two feet just in case. I was replacing good core for a whole foot and decided to stop. After a full inspection of the core by seeing through the fiberglass and taping with a hammer I know it's good.

I did a bunch of research on here before I started mine to know what direction I was going with as far as the gas tank, knees, and core...I decided to put the tank above the floor in the rear of the boat because I don't want to run into any issues under the floor like poor drainage or leaking to have to rip up the floor again. It would be great to have it under the floor, but I will get a custom one made with notches to fit around the transom knees. I am almost done with the core in one of the sponsons, decided to do this because I didn't think bulkheads would support the sponsons very well.

Post some pictures of your boat I would like to see it... And if you have any other pictures of the red Virage when you had it

[Aaronhl]

Might be easier and less confusing to those (me) who enjoy reading these rebuild threads to start a new thread just for your boat and it's progress....

Good Idea I will start one probably in the spring once I can get more pictures coming. My garage isn't heated so epoxy will at least be on hold for now, but my basement workshop is heated so I will make sure I can cut as much wood as I can to get a jump start in the spring.

[Aaronhl]

OK so the pictures didn't come out rotated the right way for some reason but this give you an idea where I am at. First pic shows the 2.5 feet of core I put in with 1700 biaxal over it. I am positioning the stringers but I need to recut them because of the changing angle in the bottom of the boat towards the front. Second pic shows the floor and the epoxy filler I had to use for about 8 feet to make the floor sit level on the inner edge of the sponsons. Wish I did that before I cut the stringers... Anyways floor is very level (hopefully I leveled the boat well on the cinder blocks)....The third pic shows the start of the edge banding to screw the shoebox hull design together. Also the start of the core. It's my first core job so hopefully it came out okay.

You can also see in picture 1 that it looks like the stringers/knees are pushed over to starboard a couple inches. I was going crazy wondering why the two knees I made are not "identical" until I realized the bottom of the boat is not symmetrical. I also noticed the previous motor was mounted about 2 inches off center, over to the left side of the transom. I measured as best as I could to find the center of the transom in relation to the 3 sponsons to position the knees. The motor will be centered with the knees just outside the top mounting holes.

[texasvector]

great pics....great work

[pipelayer]

Love these virage's

[pipelayer]

By the way I was only chiming in on this thread to maybe shed some light on the gas tank issue I had, I'm not sure if it was not installed properly or what but it definitely rubbed against the fiberglass and core underneath it and wore it away to nothing which caused major problems.
Also I feel the red boat drove way more like a hydrostream than my new one (and its a stage 2)
The red one was also about 5-8 mph's faster with the same motor and set up.
I will start a new thread if I decide to take on a build of mine.
Once again great job on those virage's you guys have on this thread

[W2F a V-King]

Good Idea I will start one probably in the spring once I can get more pictures coming. My garage isn't heated so epoxy will at least be on hold for now, but my basement workshop is heated so I will make sure I can cut as much wood as I can to get a jump start in the spring.

Not sure if this will help or not, but I used epoxy on mine ( 90% done with the glass work ) and the lower temps helped me to get more things done in a longer time. Not sure how cold your garage gets, but cooler working temps for me extended the set time for the epoxy I used and allowed me to go further on each step. Working by myself, I'm slow anyway.

I laid a one piece sheet of glass in the core area. ( V-King) Then bed all my core in the next session. Last step the covering the core in one piece of glass including all the faring time. There's the 4+ hour window after the work is done to add more layers if you need to or can do so before there is any blushing issues. You can stack it up.

By the looks of the Virage hull you have, and all the intricacy's it has, you might be able to get more done in one session than you think. Those YT and XT hulls have a lot of corners and angles to do, much more dificult than a V-Pad Stream...imo

[Aaronhl]

You're right I could probably do some epoxying while its cold. This hull is still pretty intricate so I have a bunch of fairing n beading/rounding to do

[W2F a V-King]

Found a way that might help with fairing the inner corners. There is likely a store bought version of this, but I had these "in stock". Mix up the peanut butter consistency thickened resin and load it into this tube. It's 4th of July leftover junk, the tube that comes with the mortars that are used to launch them. Just the right size for a caulking gun. Cut the nozzle end and the push end out of an old caulking tube.

Used the coffee can with some weights in it to hold the tube while I loaded it with the thickened resin.

Anyway it helps to put the thickened resin where you need it in just the right amount. Clean it and it's ready to go again. Not sure which cloth your using, But I had good luck with fairly small radius's using 1708.