User Tag List

Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 105
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    spokane
    Posts
    847
    Thanks (Given)
    9
    Thanks (Received)
    6
    Likes (Given)
    24
    Likes (Received)
    48
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hey Ron , let me know when your ready to Launch i will bring my boat where ever you decide i cant wait to see that thing!!!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Sitka, Alaska
    Posts
    2,501
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    6
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Will do..

    Ron Pratt
    '91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
    26' Grady White "fish getter"

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Posts
    1,079
    Thanks (Given)
    131
    Thanks (Received)
    41
    Likes (Given)
    123
    Likes (Received)
    249
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hey guys so it's been warm outside lately so spent a few hours taking everything out of the boat to get ready to take the top off. I took off the rub rail and unscrewed everything so the top is ready to come off. The problem I see is cutting the top and bottom transom connection. The two halves are fiber glassed together, have any ideas to cut it?

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Posts
    1,079
    Thanks (Given)
    131
    Thanks (Received)
    41
    Likes (Given)
    123
    Likes (Received)
    249
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Here is the transom, it's not too straight the middle is pulled out and there are cracks in the corners. I cut the engine well out and will be making it flat with knees tied to the top, transom and stingers. I can do this because the gas tank will go under the floor and I will have a 10-12" set back for the engine. Cutting the engine well out also makes it easier to take the top of the boat off because the transom edge is fiberglassed together. I need to take the top off the get all the wet foam out and replace the floor Let me know what you think






  5. Likes Slimm liked this post
  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Sitka, Alaska
    Posts
    2,501
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    6
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Looks good.

    Ron Pratt
    '91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
    26' Grady White "fish getter"

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Posts
    1,079
    Thanks (Given)
    131
    Thanks (Received)
    41
    Likes (Given)
    123
    Likes (Received)
    249
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks, I am still trying to figure out how to break the fiberglass free on the inside edge to the sides of the transom. I will post a picture of the floor in the middle later tonight, I can't see any core there????

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Sitka, Alaska
    Posts
    2,501
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    6
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Stiff putty knife or a "wonder bar" pry bar works best.

    There is a false floor for the ski locker you will need to remove. The only coring in the boat should be in the V part of the hull. I take a hole saw without the center bit removed and CAREFULLY drill thru the inside skin of fiberglass. About 3/16" should be deep enough to get thru the glass. You will feel the bit go "soft" as soon as you hit the core.





    This is how I put a 6' tank in my boat. About 26 gallons. You don't want the weight much more forward. I cored my sponsons so no foam needed for support.



    This is how the floor fits on the outer edges of the ski locker rails. Only remove enough of the ski locker to get the tank in. The tank is flush with the underside of the floor.





    On my transom, I beveled the top edge of the wood so the fiberglass will get into the crevasse where the flat splash well meets.



    I used particle board for my form board. I created a drop section for a 15" motor so mine will look different.





    Wax the form



    Start glassing



    Done.





    If you don't have these supports, I recommend them. My dash is solid as a rock now.












    Hope this helps..

    Ron Pratt
    '91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
    26' Grady White "fish getter"

  9. #23
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    catskill ny
    Posts
    3,623
    Thanks (Given)
    5
    Thanks (Received)
    1
    Likes (Given)
    31
    Likes (Received)
    28
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ron is that Virage running ? Had mine out last weekend . 200 feet past the dock my gps was stuck on 100 as usually some day I will have to fix that issue
    1990 hydrostream virage diamondpower280

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Sitka, Alaska
    Posts
    2,501
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    6
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Next summer now.

    Building a new home this summer up here. Won't be back to finish rigging till Sept./ Oct.

    Ron Pratt
    '91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
    26' Grady White "fish getter"

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Posts
    1,079
    Thanks (Given)
    131
    Thanks (Received)
    41
    Likes (Given)
    123
    Likes (Received)
    249
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    AlaskaStreaming thanks for the pictures and information- I have been following your threads for a while and see some new pictures that were helpful.

    Here is a hole in the false floor in the ski locker. I can't see any core material but it does seem pretty dry and hard. I will have to cut up more when I get the top off. Thanks for the wonder bar tool tip that is exactly what I need


  12. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Sitka, Alaska
    Posts
    2,501
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    6
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I see a lot of golden material which is good. I would test drill in one of the dark spots

    Ron Pratt
    '91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
    26' Grady White "fish getter"

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Posts
    1,079
    Thanks (Given)
    131
    Thanks (Received)
    41
    Likes (Given)
    123
    Likes (Received)
    249
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yea when I take the top off I'll be able to cut up the floor closest to the transom. The transom even sounds pretty solid when I hit it

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Sitka, Alaska
    Posts
    2,501
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    6
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    My first Virage had a few issues due to the rough water I ran thru that I feel I corrected with this new one.

    The deck started getting hairline cracks at each screw hole in the bow area. Every 6" the screws that hold the rubrail on which also fastens the deck to the hull were working loose. Also, the screws that attach the side panels to the floor were attached with wood screws which pulled loose. I thru bolted everything to stop the damage.

    In this picture you can see I glassed the deck to the hull and the side panels to the floor (on both sides). Also I fully glassed the front bulkhead in place.



    Behind the side panel.




    Ron Pratt
    '91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
    26' Grady White "fish getter"

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bristol, Connecticut
    Posts
    1,079
    Thanks (Given)
    131
    Thanks (Received)
    41
    Likes (Given)
    123
    Likes (Received)
    249
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    That seems like a great idea to join the top to the bottom with fiberglass.

    Do you plan on attaching the metal rub rail track with screws and nuts? I actually want to get a new track and rubber strip. The one I have is in bad shape

  16. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Sitka, Alaska
    Posts
    2,501
    Thanks (Given)
    6
    Thanks (Received)
    6
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    30
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Yes, I got a plastic main piece with a stainless filler that's pre drilled every 6". I will thru bolt with #8 machine screws, fender washers, lock washers and nuts.

    Ron Pratt
    '91 Virage "The LAST Virage" 15" 280
    26' Grady White "fish getter"

Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Aeromarine Research