2015 HydroStream Power Tour - Season 7

**Aaronhl** · 02-01-2015, 01:24 PM

Hey guys i know a lot of you have restored hydrostreams so thought i should ask a question here

I need to take my hydrostream virage off its trailer to replace the floor and possible core. How should i support the boat while its off the trailer? Like what area of the hull should be supported? And i will be taking the top off the boat as well. Also, where can i measurr to make sure the hull is level and plum

**Valero2.5** · 02-01-2015, 01:30 PM

So far, i think my Hull is not leaking, but until i can get to heated hangar in Racine to ck it out, i must be on pins and needles. Transom and hull have no stress cracks from a soggy wet transom or a floppy pad, but i need to have it checked out, i re painted trailer, re carpeted boat after fuel spill, and installed the Sea Star with Red sharp steering wheel, and all she needs is some serious H.P. if the Hull is solid from an expert opinion. Here you can see what a nice boat it is, pics before new wheel and trim all original teak removed and saved to sell. plus new Amega guages with Red / white installed and Merc Tach. Boat is so sweet, original Coast Guard sticker is mint, like nobody ever even rode in passenger seat and beat it up. where as my Valero has maybe 47 nicks, dents, dock stress cracks, the YT has maybe 7 over entire boat, two from the guy having trouble launching and a wake punching him into trailer on nose and right sponson, i am guessing, other wise absolutely as clean as in the showroom condition. I have a Powerhead at Fort Fremont picture of it here, a 2.4 EFI i am hoping to wake it up with. Right now, just had leakdown numbers and waiting on some costs.

- Jim

**Valero2.5** · 02-01-2015, 02:02 PM

pics of my YT, it came with a Mariner 150 that was a fake...lol. Under H.P. saying 200 EFI... as one can see by the transom this boat is in Virgin pure state as far as abuse goes, now is the core solid?

**FlowMaxx** · 02-01-2015, 02:09 PM

Yes, definitely a nice YT. Previous owner is in our group and many of us have seen that boat. It is possible Brian took a closer look at it (he is the resident YT novice). I am pretty sure I took that middle pic. Most will tell you that if the core hasn't been done, it needs to be checked and likely re-done.

**Valero2.5** · 02-01-2015, 02:49 PM

Yes, we bought it in Shawno from a Ben who had a brother, you took the pic of it flying past camera? as far as you know, they had no issues? with core? they only had 150 hp on it? or did they have a better motor? They are from Illionois and also have a Valero open bow? does that help? Jim

**Sonik** · 02-01-2015, 03:35 PM

Ahhh...Brett's old boat. Thought it looked familiar.

**Scream And Fly** · 02-01-2015, 05:01 PM

The best way to support the hull for service and removing the floor:

The floor is a critical part of the boat's structure, especially for all Hydrostreams, and the hull must be completely supported both laterally and longitudinally. This isn't difficult, just make sure you have the hull supported inside the tunnels completely, as well as the bottom of the sponsons, and the pad itself, for the entire length of the hull's running surfaces. If the hull is not fully supported, you risk warping the hull if the floor is completely removed. That is more of a potential risk on V-bottom hulls than on tunnel hulls, however.

It is also my personal recommendation that the floor not be removed all at once and entirely. Replace the floor in large sections, so that there is always some lateral support within the hull during the process. Essentially, this means replacing the floor in three sections; the center section, stern, and uppermost bow area. That is just my personal recommendation.

As for measuring the hull, you would measure diagonally across angle points at the stern, then along the bottom from the trailing edge of the sponsons to measured points on the bottom, which you will mark. To do this, take a tape measure and mark fixed lengths from the bow eye, under the hull and to the trailing edge of the sponsons. I would not get alarmed if the measurements do not equalize since they almost never will, even when the hull was new. Your main concern is that the hull is not warped or twisted. No fiberglass hull will be perfect, though. Depending on the materials used, building process, and the manufacturer, most hulls will deform very slightly a short time after being removed from the molds. Focus the most on checking your running surfaces especially for hooks, rockers, or twists, which you cannot allow.

I was going to do a feature article on this in detail. I tend to be a bit excessive with this sort of thing so remember this is just my personal opinions.

Greg

Originally Posted by Aaronhl

Hey guys i know a lot of you have restored hydrostreams so thought i should ask a question here

I need to take my hydrostream virage off its trailer to replace the floor and possible core. How should i support the boat while its off the trailer? Like what area of the hull should be supported? And i will be taking the top off the boat as well. Also, where can i measurr to make sure the hull is level and plum

**texasvector** · 02-02-2015, 09:25 AM

Originally Posted by hydrostreamvking4m

Any chance's for inside pics..Also I like it (ALOT) .
Nice pic

only pic i have of inside.....before we finished rigging.......ill get some next time we ride.

heres where mine sits........tore down motor yesterday.....getting 15" mid ready to go back on. flipped jackplate from 2.5" back to 5" bakc with 6* negative angle.

**texasvector** · 02-02-2015, 09:26 AM

valero2.5.....nice collection you got there.

**Hippie459MN** · 02-02-2015, 09:45 AM

Originally Posted by texasvector

getting 15" mid ready to go back on.

Cant wait to see it.

**Aaronhl** · 02-02-2015, 12:55 PM

Awesome, thanks for the information. That makes a lot of sense and will look forward to your feature article. Won't be doing anything on my boat until the snow is gone.

Originally Posted by Scream And Fly

The best way to support the hull for service and removing the floor:

The floor is a critical part of the boat's structure, especially for all Hydrostreams, and the hull must be completely supported both laterally and longitudinally. This isn't difficult, just make sure you have the hull supported inside the tunnels completely, as well as the bottom of the sponsons, and the pad itself, for the entire length of the hull's running surfaces. If the hull is not fully supported, you risk warping the hull if the floor is completely removed. That is more of a potential risk on V-bottom hulls than on tunnel hulls, however.

It is also my personal recommendation that the floor not be removed all at once and entirely. Replace the floor in large sections, so that there is always some lateral support within the hull during the process. Essentially, this means replacing the floor in three sections; the center section, stern, and uppermost bow area. That is just my personal recommendation.

As for measuring the hull, you would measure diagonally across angle points at the stern, then along the bottom from the trailing edge of the sponsons to measured points on the bottom, which you will mark. To do this, take a tape measure and mark fixed lengths from the bow eye, under the hull and to the trailing edge of the sponsons. I would not get alarmed if the measurements do not equalize since they almost never will, even when the hull was new. Your main concern is that the hull is not warped or twisted. No fiberglass hull will be perfect, though. Depending on the materials used, building process, and the manufacturer, most hulls will deform very slightly a short time after being removed from the molds. Focus the most on checking your running surfaces especially for hooks, rockers, or twists, which you cannot allow.

I was going to do a feature article on this in detail. I tend to be a bit excessive with this sort of thing so remember this is just my personal opinions.

Greg