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Thread: 3.0L Cooling
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11-27-2014, 04:10 PM #1
3.0L Cooling
I have read several posts on cooling a 3.0L closed deck. #2 cly suffers from lack of cooling water from air traps and low cooling water on slowing down after high speed runs. I have read that the addition of a bleed hole will help the air entrapment, but not sure what goes on when coming down from a high speed run and how to fix that.
My question is this.
1) Can that spring valve next to #2cyl be removed (not sure what it does) and just replace with the bleed valve.
or
2) Would it be better to replace the spring valve and install the older control valve & thermostats.
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11-27-2014, 09:34 PM #2
Do the water mod like a Ficht...
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11-28-2014, 08:01 AM #3
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11-28-2014, 10:27 AM #4
Yes please explain!
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11-29-2014, 03:38 PM #55000 RPM
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I've done it. It is involved. It can be done in a home shop, with an electric drill, a few bits, some rubber o-ring stock, etc.
You have to know how...and it is an involved process that cannot be explained here. Too much.
Opening up existing holes, creating new water deflector positions, drilling from under block thru exhaust cavity.....
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11-29-2014, 03:42 PM #65000 RPM
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Look here for HALF of the job.
No words yet...just pics.
http://s718.photobucket.com/user/das...0Cooling%20Mod
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11-29-2014, 04:15 PM #7
Found some pics that will vent the block on top. I have Yamaha ignition, so the rectifier is removed and I vent the block through the plate that covers it. I use it in place of the tell-tale.This pic shows a different version of the same thing, that Gary (instigator) posted some time back. I think he did both sides. Hopefully someone will weigh in if there are disadvantages to this option. Here's a link to the post http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...looper+cooling
Last edited by frederick55; 11-29-2014 at 04:38 PM.
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11-29-2014, 04:48 PM #8
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11-29-2014, 11:19 PM #9
You can "compartmentalize" a closed deck block so it cools up through the exhaust first, then down around and back up the cylinders and finally down the heads. You can't really control the water flow this way on an open deck block as easily. It works very well, but should be done by a pro the first time until you can see the changes in person. You can switch to the 70HP stats and springs and do vent lines on the top of the cylinders like pictured, but I would want very very little water coming out of those lines. Too much flow from those and you will never build heat, as it would be exiting before the stats. Not what you want.
Also, the open deck blocks don't control heat very well either, but there isn't a whole lot you can do about it.Last edited by lokinutz; 11-30-2014 at 11:23 AM.
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11-30-2014, 12:24 PM #10
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11-30-2014, 12:55 PM #11Scream And Fly VIP
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Lokinutz has it correct, venting let's out the air but does very little to equalize the temp thru out the block. To do what he mentions requires plugging two holes and adding two others and adding 6 diverters to control water flow direction. I started doing this mod in the late 90's and it works very well. Problem is you really need to see one to get it right. The 3.3 liter ficht are done this way.
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12-01-2014, 10:28 AM #12
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12-01-2014, 05:22 PM #13
Mar-Fab in Tenn. does it.
http://www.mar-fab.com/MarFab_Tech_Bulletins_D9579.pdf
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12-01-2014, 06:43 PM #14
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12-01-2014, 09:24 PM #15Junior Member
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try james perry (aka wrenchin2 ) im sure he can do it. he builds lots of engines in this area . he in dunlap tn. also yes mar fab is no longer .