test prop and spark tester

[tvd]

OH, and, when new, the floats and their levels are damn near right on. Very little adjusting is required.
So, you might need new floats, if they are not able to be bent back.

Oh, and that's not likely your problem, unless they are just mangled and unusable.

[at100plus]

They weren't right on at all when new. But they can be bent back. They've only been bent once. I just did one the way you said and it looks good. I really can't reason whether or not it makes a difference but since I had the problem before the carb rebuild I guess probably not. I suppose the gas might float the float a tad more or less if it's at an angle rather than flat when it's down but either way it's still flat when it's closing the needle on the seat...

[tvd]

They weren't right on at all when new.

Yes they were. You were doing something wrong. They were most likely right.

[frederick55]

Yes they were. You were doing something wrong. They were most likely right.

If they are always right why does the manual give instructions for inspecting proper height and how to make adjustments?

[at100plus]

So absent a torque wrench that does 24 inch pounds. What's better. All bowl screws good and snug or only tight to just before the point where the gasket starts to turn (bulge) I personally think tight all around would be better since the bowl has that little raised line that digs into the gasket and I would think that's making a good seal. But the carb side doesn't have that. So this: or this? (looking at the gasket corner that is in the dead center of the pictures) Also note, the difference between pic 1 and pic 2 is 1/4 turn

[tvd]

If they are always right why does the manual give instructions for inspecting proper height and how to make adjustments?

Don't know Fred. Manual must be wrong.

[at100plus]

Doesn't matter. I just want to get everything right this time.

[at100plus]

So what do you guys think about the gaskets. Snug or a 1/4 turn less to prevent bulge? I'm thinking if gas isn't leaking air won't leak right? In which case it doesn't matter and perhaps tighter is better??

[PanRonnie]

<iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/z5S0ek4A5lM" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="480" width="853">tha

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THANK GOD FOR FUEL INJECTION

[at100plus]

I saw that video a month ago. Those carbs are very different but thats why I thought the float should be bent at the float not the tab the needle is on. I was also more cautious than he is, i took the floats off before bending and i didnt tighten any one screw down the way he did i got them all close to contact then criss crossed a 1/4 turn at a time so the bowls tightened down much more evenly. I replaced a couple bowls that I thought had some warping (gasket bulge like i showed in the pic) with brand new ones and the new bowls didn't make a difference. I've read about people sanding the bottom of the carb bodies to true them up but I don't know that I want to mess with that since I'm really thinking there would have to be a sign of gas leak for there to be an air leak no?

[mn808gade]

did you use gaskets on the seats? the bronze seats are tightened on a PLASTIC carb body and don't need an( added) gasket.-th

[at100plus]

did you use gaskets on the seats? the bronze seats are tightened on a PLASTIC carb body and don't need an( added) gasket.-th

A nylon washer came with the carb kit and shows on the parts diagram so I put them in last time I had carbs apart. I took them out now. It made no difference.

Anyone know where I can get two new link arms part # 0329755? Mine have a lot of play. (See video link below) I'm thinking this and my slightly over pitched prop could be a lot of the problem. Maybe a hair lean at 2000 rpm range too and the three factors together could be it. If I can't get them I'm thinking brass bushing time. Link arm play: http://youtu.be/RTRPk-s_5TI

[tvd]

Below are two pics of the calibration pockets on a little 25hp 3 cyl.
The first pic shows my welding tip cleaner inserted in one of three small holes. There is an additional larger hole too.
The second pic shows light shining thru clean holes.
You have the same type of design on your engine. Behind the core plugs in the TB, as we discussed.
Note the position of the holes. The three small holes go thru to the venturi on the air silencer side of the throttle butterfly. The one larger hole goes thru on the engine side of the butterfly.

I put my mic on the welding tip wire, and it is 0.020. Wire barely fit. So they are small holes.
The hole with the wire in it was clogged. I sprayed it with carb cleaner, no effect. Had to ream it out with the wire.



The point about the nylon washer is NOT that it was the cause of your problem....the point was that with it installed, the floats would not be close adjustment-wise right out of the package.

With the washer under the seat, you change the whole float geometry. So that brings me back to the "you did something wrong" statement above.

The looseness on your top link must be fixed. You will never get a good link and sync with that slop. But it is not causing your problem.

[6Killer]

Have you thought about turning up the low speed timing and see what happens. You have chased, ad nauseam, fuel and gotten nowhere, explore over avenues......

And clean your $hit up! It looks like sand covering the motor.....

[at100plus]

Have you thought about turning up the low speed timing and see what happens. You have chased, ad nauseam, fuel and gotten nowhere, explore over avenues......

And clean your $hit up! It looks like sand covering the motor.....

Clean now. It was dust from prepping for paint. That video was a month ago. Fixed the play in the links with bushings.


I put welding wire thru the orfices in the throttle bodies and can see the wire thru the front orfice. Soaked them overnight. They were clean anyway. I took the nylon washer out and bent the tab back to perpendicular with the float and eureka you were right the small tab needs no adjustment. The nylon washer was throwing it off for sure.