test prop and spark tester

[at100plus]

When I look at some of the online plug reading references. It looks like I'm probably rich at idle. All of my plugs are wet fouled like in the picture except bottom right BR. Bottom right is dry fouled. So I suppose I rather have weak ignition or floats too high? I wonder why the one is dry fouled and the others wet.

Also my wet fouled plugs are very clean clear wetness with a drop of black in it as opposed to the pic where it is all black wetness. Maybe cause the plugs are brand new?

[at100plus]

I'm going back down tonight. I gotta solve this mystery. What do you guys think I should do first? I'm thinking what Marcus said move the bottom left carb (the one that is making the dry carbon plug elsewhere and put new plugs on the cylinders that I swap carbs on then run it and read the plugs. If no change then swap coil wires from the good running engine??....

[baja200merk]

Yes they make 13 I have one I'll give u but if u put a 34 on it with half the blades cut off it will spin it to rev limiter. If it doesn't get in the truck and pull boat up 2 ft!

is there any way u pinched the rubber spaghetti gasket between carb and throttle body?

i cannot view your videos send a direct link

34d is fcuking wrong! That's why it won't run. Should be 64-67d ish.

Easiest way to check spark leak is spray water on coils and wires when it's running and it's dark out.

It's an old looper wet plugs at idle is normal.

If u mention test prop one more time I'm gonna fly up there and smack u.

[at100plus]

Could be 64d my old eyes and the first number was very hard for me to read. Just goes to show the mechanic from the dealer was standing right next to me when I pulled it out and I was having trouble reading it so i showed him and said looks like 34d to me and he that would be right.

Go on you tube and search for at100plus1

No I was very careful and I watched the gasket as I was putting the carb on then I made sure I held it tight against the venturi block while putting the screws in

[racer]

I read thru the first 2 pages. You need to start by getting your fuel tanks cleaned if you have not done so just a little water will effect the engines, you need to verify vaccum needed to draw fule from the tanks. Disconnect the shift switch to eliminate them ( make sure to rehook black/yellow to shut them off) When ever you replace an electrical component timing needs to be checked. The dealer you went to that told you the timers for yours are NLA is wrong, As off April they were available and I have OEM ones in stock. You should also check your main jet size to verify you have the correct one for your air box confiquration. You can check spark with a timing light while running the engine, I would also have marks for all 6 on the flywheel.

[at100plus]

I'm going to remove the inboard tank over the winter meanwhile I am only running on a 14 gallon outboard tank with fresh gas

[at100plus]

Timer bases and stators are brand new from CDI.

[at100plus]

I've misplaced my timing light I can't find it and I haven't gone crazy looking for it because I figure I need to be able to turn 5000 rpm first



Hence the name of this thread, I wanted to buy the spark tester that appears to show spark on all six while the engine is running. I'm forbidden to say the other reason for the name of this thread

[racer]

What are the chances of selling a new engine to that customer, how about test it for a price, list the issues failing now and the issues that could happen, you'll make a friend of the customer then.
Won lots of customers that way back in the day in OZ, other dealers sent them.
You fix one item and luckily nothing else happens you have a happy customer, something else does fail, well you explained that.
Sorry for the hijack but it generally that comes from dealers that dont have the facility to test engines properly, therefore can never be sure they fixed it.

I agree 100 percent

[baja200merk]

You don't have to turn it 5k. If it runs like ass at 2700 then that's when u need to see timing. If u have 37d in the carbs that's why it won't run end of story.

[racer]

Do you have baffels in your air box and are they on the engine?

[at100plus]

Ill Post pictures of my plugs is the dry carbon plug abnormal then?

[at100plus]

Yes I do and I just took the air box apart and cleaned it thoroughly. I had the lids one when going for test runs but all day yesterday the lid was off

[racer]

Are the air boxes on the engines when you test run them? Big or mid bore carbs? If you dont know post the number on the plastic part of the carb.

[Paul Vaillancourt]

I have a test prop number 387388
I don't want to sell it but I am not planning on using it till next season.
I would be willing to let you use it if you make sure I get it back.
send me a pm Paul