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  1. #271
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    I just read thru all this. I'd empty one cylinder of 44 Mag into each motor and call it a day. Lol
    Erik Kiser

  2. #272
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    Have been very tempted a few times but I know it runs and compression is good, that's what has kept me trying. I'm hoping the rusty barrel in the old filter base is the smoking gun. Don't know where the rust debris is, maybe in the cal pockets, but hope that after I tear down and clean everything now that I have new filter bases maybe problem will be solved.

  3. #273
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    I pulled the carbs and throttle bodies off today. Going to start soaking and cleaning tomorrow. I pulled one side plate off today and saw some very tiny pepper flake looking debris on the brown gasket. Very tiny. I saw this one time on my in line OMC screens (the ones just before the VRO pump). It was a very tiny bit and I kinda shrugged it off. I wonder if some of those little flakes are flakes of rust from the old filter bases and sometimes come together forming a temporary idle speed clog. In addition I'm beginning to strongly suspect my REV 4 21 (4 blades) might be too much prop. I just reread Mragu's post when he was looking for props for this boat, the 200 Yamahas he had came with 13 1/4 x 19s. He said he ran it with these 21s and it ran well but he had no GPS and I don't think his tachs worked either. Maybe that's why he blew an engine....maybe he got a chunk that clogged a main??.... Don't know if his Yamahas had an in line screen like my Evinrudes have after the 10 micron can.

    I'm thinking between a minor low speed clog on a couple carbs here and there and props that are too tall the combination could be my whole problem all along.

    So I'm looking for a pair of 19s to borrow so I can see where I need to go with props.
    Last edited by at100plus; 10-20-2014 at 07:09 PM.

  4. #274
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    Or maybe if I could find a left hand match for the 21 3 blade I have (See pic below, I'm guessing they are OMC props). I have two of these in right hand rotation as my motors did not originally have a left hand lower unit. I suppose I could service and install the RH lower that was on it with these props too.... I wonder how it will run without counter rotation.... These props were on the boat that I got the motors off of (also a 31 Chris Craft) but that boat was a 79 Excalibur 310. Same boat but with transom not brackets.

  5. #275
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    Or maybe if I could find a left hand match for the 21 3 blade I have It's an OMC SST #389923. It's LH sister would be 390822. I have two of these in right hand rotation as my motors did not originally have a left hand lower unit. I suppose I could service and install the RH lower that was on it with these props too.... I wonder how it will run without counter rotation.... These props were on the boat that I got the motors off of (also a 31 Chris Craft) but that boat was a 79 Excalibur 310. Same boat but with transom not brackets. I figure 3 blade and an inch less diameter ought to be good for 500 more RPM right?
    Last edited by at100plus; 10-20-2014 at 08:16 PM.

  6. #276
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    aalsmeer
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    drilling a hole after the propeller blade
    can give some more slip getting the engine higher in the power band and getting you on plane
    Click image for larger version. 

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    some guide,s for selection
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails propeller_selection_guide_767064(1).pdf   evinrude_prop.pdf  

  7. #277
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    Ok. That's something to try. Mine have the plastic plugs in the holes. But I Don think that will help my top speed and RPMs

  8. #278
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    Definitely take care of business in regards to getting your fuel delivery issues corrected.
    Secondly, If you are going to stay with a Rev 4 you need to drop to a 19 pitch.
    Depending on how healthy your motors are, you may need to drop to a 17P.

    I'm running a extremely healthy 99 Merc 200 EFI on the back of my flats boat and it would bog out of this world when attempting to turn a Rev 4 21P,
    even took the vent plugs out, still no go.
    Dropped down to a 17P and drilled vent plugs out to 3/8".
    Works like a charm.

    I've always believed in bolting on the biggest prop you can and finding the correct pitch for your motor.

    For every pitch you drop you should see a 400-500 rpm increase.
    Last edited by Riptide; 10-21-2014 at 07:12 PM.
    Blind, Crippled & 1/2 Crazy

  9. #279
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    Thx. We will see. Hopefully I'll have fuel issue fixed soon. I do know it's capable of spinning these 21's when the front covers are off but obviously I'm running very lean in that scenario. So trying a smaller pitch is worth a shot probably cheapest way is to get my hands on a lefty SST to match the one I have.
    Last edited by at100plus; 10-21-2014 at 06:33 PM.

  10. #280
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    I've disassembled everything again. Throttle bodies have been soaking in carb cleaner for 2 days. All jets seats even the screws that hold the floats have soaked for 24 hrs. They look like jewlry. Im assembling now. Nothing looked terribly dirty. So I want to be absolutley sure I'm putting everything together right. I've been bending my float tabs right where the metal meets the plastic bowl is that the correct way? This is what my stupid Clymer manual says. "Bend tang along float lever" Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by at100plus; 10-23-2014 at 02:05 PM.

  11. #281
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    I found a lefty SST 21 3 blade to match the righty I already had so maybe that will get me thru that lean spot faster when trying to plane and bring my rpms up at top speed. Should be easier to spin those than REV 4 21s...

  12. #282
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    Uh...no...don't bend it there.

    The "tang" is the 3/8 short metal piece that the needle clips onto.

    That little wire needle holder slides onto it...bend it ever so slightly to raise of lower the float level.

  13. #283
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    Well could that be my problem?

    So bend it hereClick image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by at100plus; 10-23-2014 at 04:05 PM.

  14. #284
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    Also is it possible I'm torquing the bowl and side plate screws too much. The spec is 18-24 in lbs. My littlest torque wrench starts at 100. I'm very careful to slowly criss cross so that I torque them down very even and snug but not using a torque wrench.

  15. #285
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    Yeah that is the place to bend. But very tiny bends. Almost imperceptable to actually see it bend.
    Sometimes just a bit of pressure to make it move a bit. Hook a thumbnail under it to bend up. No tools required. It is that easy.

    When tightening plastic bowl screws, VRO pump screws...any screw that has plastic threads...it is very important to thread the screw into the existing/original threads that were cut. Do not cross thread when putting screw in. Don't put it in any old way....I rotate the screw slowly in reverse or "out" direction, and I feel it "bump" when it drops down into the original thread starting location. Then go on down with it.
    When it hits snug, then I do an additional 1/4 turn.

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