test prop and spark tester

[Riptide]

Very experienced folks above trying to help ya along. KUDO's to those folks.
I by no means am a marine mechanic to say the least, learning as I go.
But I do know any engine has 3 main principles of proper operation.
Fuel delivery, spark & air intake/exhaust.

You definitely have to check your timing as suggested.
A bad stator could cause an engine to not rev past 2000-2500rpm, but you stated you replaced that and both the engines are being effected.
That alone is a possible indication it's a fuel delivery issue.
You stated you have rebuilt carbs, twice, so lets say that's not the issue at this point in time.
Still need to take BAJA's suggestion in reference to spraying fuel into carbs and seeing if there's any difference.

With all of the above info you have provided,

Does your fuel tank have a anti siphon valve in it? Could be getting stuck or needing replaced.
Have you checked all of your fuel lines for interior delamination?
Have you replaced your primer bulbs?
Have you checked fuel pressure at your fuel pump?

I believe it was here on S&F that somebody was having spark issue once, tested with spark tester and appeared to be normal.
Then he fired the motor up during the night and actually seen spark jumping from 1 or more plug wires to the engine grounding out.
Could be a possible issue but still sounds like a fuel issue.

[at100plus]

New stators had no effect.
I did spray fuel into carbs and that's what got it going the first time. Then I rebuilt the carbs and it wouldn't go. Then I fixed a kill wiring issue and it would go for no apparent reason.

Can't check timing without a test wheel.
Not sure if carbs are a non issue because I've now found I have contaminated gas and I don't know when it became contaminated. I think the Sierra filters did their job though the pics with the fuel in the jar are the contents of the filters from yesterday.

Not willing to go in the bay with the covers off again was too risky swamping the engines. Another reason I need a test wheel so I can spray fuel in the carbs again at the dock.

Never checked fuel pressure don't have anything to check it with. I have brand new VRO pumps though.

Fuel lines are not deteriorating. They are new Trident 3/8 ID marine fuel line and bulbs are new.

At this point I think I may have contaminated the carbs the day I bypassed Sierra filters for 5 mins at idle speed on the inboard tank. I suppose even with fresh gas on outboard tanks it must not be clearing out.

I suppose I'll have to go back down and pull at least one carb off and see what it looks like inside. Ugh. back to square one.

[PanRonnie]

Those aren't Ficht right? When did FICHT start 99 or 2000?

OMC released the 1997 FICHT fuel injected motor in 1996 to meet stiffer EPA guidelines. This motor used Gasoline Direct Injection developed by Ficht GmbH Germany. This motor had problems due to the transition phase of operation being exactly at the same trolling speed of many fishermen and had problems early on, and the smoking and knocking of these engines, along with many pistons and rods exploding out the sides of the engine block, created an aura of doom to potential new customers. Some outboard motor industry insiders have speculated the rush to meet EPA standards helped with the undoing of OMC.

but this was the 150 only 175 and 200 came later
i believe the ebay motors are carbs!
but if it,s an idea can,t hurt to email the seller?

[at100plus]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-Evinrud...30406192&rt=nc

Those aren't Ficht right? When did FICHT start 99 or 2000? I was considering buying motors but after this ordeal I'm not buying anything that I don't get a ride in the boat they are pushing first.

[at100plus]

The switch cuts the ignition when you pull it out of gear, hence as above its an item to disconnect when you troubleshoot.
Do you have 2 pak engines?

genuine manuals here
https://www.outboardbooks.com/

Yes they are 2 pack engines. I know the shift interrupt wire only connects to the right powerpack, I just can't see the switch without removing the lower pans which is hard to do with the boat in the water. I was aware that it cust ignition when shifting but wouldn't the shift mechanism be far from grounding out that switch once it's fully in gear? That's what I was asking. Is the wsitch itself adjustable?

I can cut the wire and put a bullet connector on it though. I suppose my next course of action is to pull a carb or two and see if anything is in them. Then disconnect shift interrupt. And perhaps get a test wheel. I know these engines will run, so it's just a matter of will I be able to figure it out before winter. I can only get down there like one day a week. It really wastes my time going out to the bay 5 times only to find no joy everytime I make a change. I didn't know till yesterday my gas was a mess. I actually pumped some gas a few weeks ago into a jar AFTER the Sierra filters and it looked good and clear no separation. The filters did their job. Didn't realize they were doing it that well and it was a big mistake to hookup to the tank without them. I figured since it ran on the outboard tanks straight to the OMC filter maybe there was an air leak or a problem keeping the Sierra filters full and I bypassed them. Stupid move.

[at100plus]

So let's assume I got contaminated fuel in my carbs in the 3 mins I ran it at idle speed without the Sierra filters. 2 days later I got it on plane for 5 mins. Wouldn't the bad water contaminated fuel have burned off or would water collect at the bottom of the bowls. If I drain the bowls would that maybe help or do I need to tear apart all the carbs again? That fuel must have done something cause my port motor was running good.

[baja200merk]

unplug the shift interrupt till you know they are not a problem. Make 1 less possible problem.

Diagnose 1 motor at a time.

[at100plus]

Yea that's the other reason I want a test wheel. So o can diagnose one at a time. Going for a test run I don't know if it's both motors or just one since one seems to need the other to plane off. Even with one stbd engine tilted up port motor won't get past 2500 rpms when it seemed to be running good. But when it planes obviously they both go. Twins can be overwhelming. Can't find a used test wheel anywhere so I guess I'll have to bite the bullet for a new one.

What happens when water contaminated fuel gets in the engine. Will it burn off with fresh fuel or will is sit in the bowls and continue to cause problems?

I'm going back tomorrow. I'll star by draining the bowls and disconnecting the shift interrupts

[at100plus]

Is a standard DVA 640 adapter what I need to test my nee stators and timer bases?

This is my multimeter. Attachment 307109

[at100plus]

http://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Spe.../dp/B0093U3TFG

[at100plus]

If I can get it running well enough to get me to the ramp I'm gonna pull it out of the water tomorrow. And work on the problem at a more leisurely pace over the winter I think my marina won't have such a problem with me testing on the ramp with a test prop in the off season. I need a more controlled environment. Hanging over the water working on engines sucks and testing in the rough bay sucks.

[Riptide]

Your attachments are not viewable.

[tvd]

I'm not gonna read all three pages....but 10 to 1 you have not cleaned the calibration pockets in the throttle bodies.
Very tiny holes behind the round welch plugs. Smallest holes maybe .015 in diameter.

[at100plus]

Your absolutley right. What the he'll isbthat!?

[at100plus]

I'll repost the pics in a bit. I'm working on the snowmobile today. I don't want to miss snowmobile season this year too!