V6 Looper fried 2 power packs

[Macygin]

1995 V6 Johnson 225

I have gone through 2 power packs in the last month. My question is can a bad regulator take out a power pack. I have burnt up three regulators this summer and I think I have figured out why, low water pressure at idle. But the low water pressure at idle doesn't explain why the power pack went bad. My theory is that when the regulator stopped regulating, the high voltage (18+) killed the. Power pack. Is this possible? My water pressure Guage starts reading at 5 psi and at idle the needle is at rest so I know I have less than 5 psi at idle. I'm. Going to drill the poppit valve to bleed the air so that I hopefully stop killing the regulators. So is the bad power pack related to the bad regulator or is it a totally separate problem? Thanks

[racer]

only time pack sees battery voltage is when you crank the engine the yellow/red wire supplies 12 volts to excite pack. The regulator is not tied to pack. If you are burning regulators you need to replace the battery and do not use an AGM style battery. When installing pack you need to be very careful not to pinch any wires.

[Macygin]

Thanks for the input. I will buy two new batteries. The batteries that I'm using now are lead acid cranking batteries. I'm going to do a load test on the batteries next. I read that a bad ignition coil could potentially take out a pack so I'm also going to test all the ignition coils. Anyone else out there experience this repeated power pack failure?

[rude tim]

Make sure all your grounds are good.

[Macygin]

OK so if the regulator is not tied to the pack then I must have two separate problems here. I have had a new stator since beginning of season so I think I can eliminate that. It has to be timer base or coils. I can't test the coils because that is a running test and without a pack can't do a running test. All my grounds are good, checked those with meter. When the pack fails the engine will cut out intermittently and then eventually leave me stranded on the river with no spark to all cylinders. Do I replace all the ignition coils?

[frederick55]

If the rectifier/regulator stops working the stator can be damaged from an unregulated overload. Check all ignition parts before you start throwing money at it. I've had bad regulators take out a couple of stators and found it was best to replace both at the same time. Bad stator could blow a pack. I got tired of OMC ignition and converted to Yamaha. Racer's battery advise should be respected. You can test the coils with a voltmeter. Here's a link to the instructions. http://www.pochefamily.org/outboard/coils.htm

[perfmarine1]

1995 V6 Johnson 225

I have gone through 2 power packs in the last month. My question is can a bad regulator take out a power pack. I have burnt up three regulators this summer and I think I have figured out why, low water pressure at idle. But the low water pressure at idle doesn't explain why the power pack went bad. My theory is that when the regulator stopped regulating, the high voltage (18+) killed the. Power pack. Is this possible? My water pressure Guage starts reading at 5 psi and at idle the needle is at rest so I know I have less than 5 psi at idle. I'm. Going to drill the poppit valve to bleed the air so that I hopefully stop killing the regulators. So is the bad power pack related to the bad regulator or is it a totally separate problem? Thanks

To answer your question Yes a bad regulator can take out a pack because it is under the pack. If the reg overheats it can melt the pack, that is what your picture seems to show. Check your stator for burnt windings. They should be copper color not brown color.

[Macygin]

Ok so I started testing electronics today. I tested the stator according to OMC factory service manual and that tested good. I pulled the flywheel and the winding look like copper, they don't show any signs of discoloration. Started testing the sensor coil but then realized that I need a peak voltage reading meter, which I don't have. Gonna have to get one. The sensor coil did pass the ohm test though. That is where I'm at so far.

[S.d.]

I'm curious as to whether or not you have discovered what is burning up your power packs and regulators.
i just bought twin 92 225's. the first trip out, the port power pack caught fire and melted down. I have a new power pack now, but am hesitant to put it on until I figure out why the other one melted down. They are a little expensive to be smoke checking.

on another note, the standard rotation engine has a little more than an 1/8" (in and out) play on the out put shaft (prop shaft). The counter rotation engine has no play and seems to be a bit tighter. Does anyone have info on this?

[Macygin]

I have not found a definitive culprit to the regulator problem yet. I'm waiting for warmer weather to continue testing. From my research on S&F I have a feeling it is a lack of cooling water reaching the regulator. I'm going to go through the water pump assembly with a fine tooth comb so that I can rule that out. Stats are working at their proper Temps. My water pressure Guage reads goods water pressure at idle and on plane but for all I know that could be air pressure not water pressure. I'm going to fabricate something to indicate that there is in fact water in the top of the block and not air. Had the That is where I'm at with that.

[Jim_Pat]

Subscribed.

Racer is dead on with the pinched wires on the pak and the battery.

[Macygin]

Racers advice was helpful I do not discredit him in any way. I have since replaced the batteries with two brand new ones and checked for pinched wires. I will continue to post progress as soon as the weather breaks. -5 degrees this morning , Not the best boating weather.

[Jim_Pat]

Racers advice was helpful I do not discredit him in any way. I have since replaced the batteries with two brand new ones and checked for pinched wires. I will continue to post progress as soon as the weather breaks. -5 degrees this morning , Not the best boating weather.

I know its still cold but did you find anything yet??

[S.d.]

I have replaced the power pack and regulator, along with part of the melted wire harness. It apears the regulator is what went bad and took everything else with it. After installation I checked the readings from the stators. I also pulled the water hose that is next to the regulator, while the engine is running, to make sure the water to the regulator was not air locked. The engine was been running fine since.

[Macygin]

Still have not found the problem. Just looked at the stator and saw that the power coil is burnt up. The coil with the two orange wires. That explains why my warning buzzer stays on. All these electrical gremlins make me frustrated. I'm at the point of just buying all new electronics and starting fresh. Also the new rectifier/regulator stops regulating intermittently. I can watch the voltage Guage on the dash rise to 18 volts intermittently. I've done many of the electrical test according to the service manual. Batteries tested good with the hydrometer. Still have the tach signal. Bad flywheel?